Highbeam
Super Member
I'll take a stab too.
1) Grade 70 is ideal, grade 43 is second choice. Country of origin is not important unless you are older. Us young folks have been using foreign merchandise all our lives, note the Korean tractor. Other grades of chain, especially higher ones, have some funky metal characteristics that are not desirable like being extra stretchy. The vast majority of folks that should know use G70 for binding rolling loads. I use 3/8" chain for my 4000 lb tractor.
2) The binders are not graded like chain. They are only labeled with a working load limit or WLL. Be sure that the WLL of the binder is at least as high as the WLL of the chain you choose. I prefer ratchet binders.
3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. I am not real big on independently chaining down implements or the loader though I recognize that the rules require it. If you are trailering interstate or a long ways then I would add an independent chain and binder to the FEL and the rear implement. What I do is arrange my X so that the implements are being squeezed if it is possible.
3) I anchor on the tractor to the tractors drawbar hitch assembly in the rear and around the tractor frame in front. Then I go to the best stakepockets on the trailer.
4) The chain you buy for binding has hooks on each end. They are not slip hooks so the hooks stay with the link you put them on. Make a short loop around the anchor point on each end and then place the binder between the two loops. All the extra slack will now be between the two binder hooks and should be wrapped around something to prevent the chain from dragging on the road.
5) The consensus is a strange way to think of it, there are some dang smart folks who think the consensus is bunk. Whatever you do, don't use straps.
1) Grade 70 is ideal, grade 43 is second choice. Country of origin is not important unless you are older. Us young folks have been using foreign merchandise all our lives, note the Korean tractor. Other grades of chain, especially higher ones, have some funky metal characteristics that are not desirable like being extra stretchy. The vast majority of folks that should know use G70 for binding rolling loads. I use 3/8" chain for my 4000 lb tractor.
2) The binders are not graded like chain. They are only labeled with a working load limit or WLL. Be sure that the WLL of the binder is at least as high as the WLL of the chain you choose. I prefer ratchet binders.
3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. I am not real big on independently chaining down implements or the loader though I recognize that the rules require it. If you are trailering interstate or a long ways then I would add an independent chain and binder to the FEL and the rear implement. What I do is arrange my X so that the implements are being squeezed if it is possible.
3) I anchor on the tractor to the tractors drawbar hitch assembly in the rear and around the tractor frame in front. Then I go to the best stakepockets on the trailer.
4) The chain you buy for binding has hooks on each end. They are not slip hooks so the hooks stay with the link you put them on. Make a short loop around the anchor point on each end and then place the binder between the two loops. All the extra slack will now be between the two binder hooks and should be wrapped around something to prevent the chain from dragging on the road.
5) The consensus is a strange way to think of it, there are some dang smart folks who think the consensus is bunk. Whatever you do, don't use straps.
