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#11 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central PA
Posts: 644
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Thanks guys!!! Paul that looks like a nice setup. I'm not sure about the strap thing yet. Rob thanks for the advise, and your expertise. The tractor is worth more than a couple of chains, and even the trailer. And the worst possible thing happening is someone getting hurt. I'm on the highway everyday, and have seen a lot of unnecessary accidents. Thanks again. Kent
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#12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Peculiar, MO
Posts: 349
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Don't foget to add the weight of the trailer bed and axle to the load you are hauling for total weight. If your trailer is rated at 7500 lbs and the axle and bed weight 2000 lbs, you have 5500 lbs of weight and not over loaded the trailer. One other thing, if you use hooks or eyebolts that attach to the trailer, make sure you drill through the frame and insert the eyenolts through the frame. Do not just drill a hole in the flooring and think that it is safe.
Dan L |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central PA
Posts: 644
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I assume you are talking abou gross weight. My trailer weights 900lbs. So you add the weight of the the tractor, I'm coming up with 3700lbs. Is it fesible that a single axle trailer can safely carry that weight? I do not have brakes on the trailer. Also a dumb but relative question, can I add brakes to my trailer? I being new to this stuff, don't understand small hauling capacities. I'm used to the 80,000lbs range. That I know something about. Thanks again. Kent
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#14 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Louisa, Virginia
Posts: 206
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Your carry capacity is determined by the rating of the axles or rims or tires or strength of the frame of trailer, with your capacity being what ever adds up to the lowest amount. I know in Northern Tool's catalogue, they have axles with ratings up to 6000 pounds along with electric and hydrualic brake parts for axles. To add brakes your axle needs to have a flange to bolt the backing plate to. Most likely, your axle is not rated greater than 3500 pounds. Depending on your trailer design, if the lenght is appropriate, maybe you could replace the single axle with two axles?
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#15 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central PA
Posts: 644
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Trailer is 6ft X 12ft. Its got one of those axle similar to something you would haul a car on. I've got 14 inch tires, and a pressure treated deck on it. Very well built trailer. I'll check about adding an axle before I do anything. Thanks a bunch Kent.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Arnold, MD
Posts: 1,855
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Steelfan:
Over the years, I have built and modified trailers using parts from http://www.franklintrailers.com/ I have found them great to deal with and extremely fast delivering. Where I am, Maryland, I understand that any trailer over 3000gvw rating has to have brakes. Whether you convert to two axles, add brakes to your present axle or replace your present axle with an axle/brake assembly, Franklin has all the parts needed. I don't have a new catalog, but up to a couple of years ago, at least, they had an extensive catalog that is worth asking for. On another note, a PhD engineer of my acquaintance convinced me that hydraulic surge brakes are safer than electric, because of reduced jacknife risk. Electric brakes, if not well adjusted, can push the tow vehicle sideways. This isn't a high-risk problem, because most of us adjust the trailer brakes to be pretty aggressive. I built a 2 wheel multiple boat trailer, however, with the hydraulic surge system. It works beautifully and avoids the need for a brake controller. Only slightly harder to install, with brake lines instead of wires. Good luck. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Peculiar, MO
Posts: 349
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if your trailer is rated at 2000 lbs, you are 1750 lbs over the rated value. More than 150 % over weight. Don't hit any potholes in the road or even a dead aminal on the road for that manner. Why not buy a trailer made for hauling your load. As a truckdriver you should know the importance of safety.
Dan L |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central PA
Posts: 644
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You're Right, DDL. I want to be safe hauling my tractor. I'm asking questions to find out which is the best way for me to go. I've seen to many people do stupid things, that cause injury or death. One thing I can tell you, is that when I haul my tractor, it will be safely. I'm just not sure of how the weight issue works with small trailers. If I need a new trailer, I'll get one. I'm currently trying to find out if I can add a second axle to my trailer, and brakes. I hate to sell my current trailer if I don't have to. Thanks for the reply. I'm grateful for the input. Kent
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#20 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,021
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<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>
Your carry capacity is determined by the rating of the axles or rims or tires or strength of the frame of trailer, with your capacity being what ever adds up to the lowest amount. <hr></blockquote> This is a key point. I looked at a 16' goosneck trailer that was for sale and "rated" at 12000 GVW. However, the tires were clearly marked not to exheed 2000 lbs. So four tires at 2000 lbs only adds up to 8000 lbs via my math. So if you assume that the trailer is around 2000 lbs, this would only give you a total load capcity of 6000 lbs! Half of the "rating"! I also think that the chains are far better. The ratchet load binders are also superior since the other kind can flip open if you don't wrap enough chain around them. Fred |
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