its impossible to put 15 inch tire on 16 inch wheel
Type: Posts; User: whis; Keyword(s):
its impossible to put 15 inch tire on 16 inch wheel
a lot of people get on here and ask how steep of a hill can I go up, down, sideways, etc. truth is there is no magical number. each job will be different with way to many different factors to list, I...
measure open and closed length of your top link get one that will do the same
should be unbolt and bolt back
check for leaks and get better steering wheel holder, he should have been checking gauges, won't know about damage till you run it. was there an alarm going off?
is the fan belt tight, wiggle the fan and see if there is any play in it could be water pump
if the ground is that hard layout the fence line and holes, rent a skid steer with an auger and go to town, come back later a set posts
those look like they are replaceable, shank is welded on tooth slips over. tractor supply may have them.
this thread is whats wrong with America today, we do something wrong or stupid and want to blame it on some else. OSHA doesn't give a rip how tall your garage is. 90 percent of all safety swicthes ,...
make sure the tach is working, all them I have been around were broke so it may have more hrs
gannon buy it
if you have a loader lift front end a little it will come out easy, if it has just started doing it might check air pressure in the tires one could be low causing it to bind a little
Ok I new I had never seen it before
Ok not arguing with you but if can call them and get him a new rotor you think you might could call GM and get my 1997 pickup repainted. don't get mad just messing with you
that's what engineer's are for I'm sure its not the first to come off or the last. that may be the way all of their mowers are made. Just curious how you having a chat with will get him a new rotor...
look on pulloff page or midnight mistress pulling site, they have for sale pages. see if you can buy rolling chassie be much cheaper than building.
if he hit something a broke it off how is the maker's fault
who does the tractor in you avitar belong to and where does it pull
just don't mix it to strong it might kill it. just kidding won't hurt anything
I wouldn't, how are you going to steer it with the front end off the ground
if you already have the disc why not try it with what you have
they can't steer it if it's welded. cheap way of doing it
truck shop maybe even muffler shop, its called a u bolt
practice, practice, practice, then a little more practice. you can be told, read a book about it or even watch a youtube video, but practice is the only thing that will work. I never leave lift...
your lift won't blow up a 4 ply tire and why can't you pull your disc with r4's
read owners manual
ag 1 and r 4 use the same wheel
they will work ok but you loose a lot of lift capacity
jeff he's talking about old 4230 over 100 hp
put a wrench on front pulley and see if you can turn it over one full round, it maybe hydrolocked
hook it back up to the tractor tie a chain to it and run it under the tractor to a big tree and back up
might be hard to get valve stem to seal, if you notice the wheel has a flat spot were the stem is
can't use a box blade?
not if they are sealed
ask the dealer for the parts you need and you install them, they may have it in a kit
trade it, you can jump up and down and throw fit and I bet they won't buy it back. how are you doing you test, forks flat lifting straight up, curling forks back then up, many ways of doing it. does...
haven't seen a tractor in a long time that didn't have neutral start switch, what kind?
little advice, cars don't pay attention to turn signals on tractors, they look like flashers and the only thing they are thinking is how they can pass you
blade can't turn with extension in the hole, for the op get a piece of round stock and weld it on the end of a piece of pipe or tubing ( it will look like the letter T ). get someone to hold it on...
we had neutral start switch act up and do same thing on older john deere, check ground and clean cables or maybe try another battery if you have one
30 tho thick washer should fix it
that looks like it, been awhile since I've looked at it. he has worn out the bottom in about 1200 hrs
1967 it's not metric
How does your 4 in 1 buckets compare to C&L buckets, I have a buddy that keeps wearing out the bottom of his, he's a landscaper and if the machine is moving bucket is on the ground doing something
pin is worn bolt only keeps it from coming out
#11 is a guide should be 2 (I believe square buttons) one on each side just in front and under #11
does clutch have any free play if not good chance clutch is gone
never had a plug to fail if done right besides all it would do is let the air out, no bang or blow out
lots of produce was raise before tillers where made
you have to keep going over it, shorter runs will help. only draw back is sometimes more you go over it the more it pulls up
used the same rims that came on it, no more flats plug and go. rims are the same don't matter if it has tube or not. you won't believe it but you can mount tube type tubeless if you want to, no...
Yep there tubeless, I put them on and tractor is used nearly every day. no sign of rust, don't know what difference make of tractor makes but its a ford 4630. very easy to put in. jack up tractor...
listen to rick b he knows ford stuff
slime is not ballast
I know where there is a tractor that has water and antifreeze in the tires for over 15 years and the wheels are fine
yes it will
its air in the cylinder from box free falling, if you cycle once both ways it should work fine. what's happening is box blade is getting ahead of tractor hydraulics
brake job 2 years ago? brakes may be bad again, I don't think a bad bearing would last 2 years if you drive much
larger trackhoe will be the fastest
good luck post a pic
cut the grass sooner at say 5 to 6 inches
yours ain't the first nor will it be the last to break, more than likely u-joint went out and you did not notice and drive shaft broke
he ain't gonna get what he needs for 10k
lots of moving parts and if knotters aren't working right it can be royal pain in the butt to fix
that won't last very long before it falls to pieces, not spinning near fast enough, not enough teeth, and no way shape form or fashion strong enough. look a some commerical grinders for idea's. you...
you are asking on a 4 year old post, i would think nut would hold it on
I would want to see it bale before I bought it unless you really like working on a hay baler
more teeth less vibration, no way I would put a stump grinder on a loader it will shake it to death
tilt the bar forward and maybe slow down a little in the taller or layed over grass
yes try not to real sharp
it needs adjusting, I can't tell you how with out looking at it, for now don't raise it all the way up
not a clutch problem, its a weight problem
does this mower have a hole on the back to access the blade bolts, if so no need to remove stump jumper. should be able to tighten gear box from top side.
you should be able to get plungers off with pair of channel locks on bottom of plunger, might try taking top side loose and see if you move cable by hand, if its easy it might be broke
yes it would
before you go removing anything have someone move the joystick and see if cable ends are moving, may only be missing a pin or something else loose. if you have to take them off they should attach...
shouldn't be hard to do, if its a long hose tie a rope on one end so you have a way to pull new one in
crows foot on long ext.
if you unplugged clutch ,did you plug it back up, if not may have knocked it loose
the only thing you are proving is you have oil in the cylinder, put a pressure gauge on the hose or at the valve, or as one guy mentioned swap hoses at the valve and try it
if haven't ran either one you will never know the difference
take a short 2x12 board with you just in case its not wide enough
deere dude is probably right, need cylinders rebuilt
A&I clutch is fine, heard good things of the place in Fort Wayne. stay away from auto parts clutches for tractors
we have a Fella 248 its a good mower about 4 grand less than name brand mowers. No more than your cutting it would be fine
should be two threaded rods underneath at the back of the deck for side to side leveling and rod or double rod on the front for front to back leveling, you want the front a little lower than the back
before I thru parts at it I would check pressure on all the valves
sounds like new clutch is not aligned right
should explain it in the manual
won't hurt to chain them up
6300 and never look back
if your talking about removing the hoses you can use crow foot wrench for the hard to reach ones. tie a rope to the hose before you pull it out and you can pull the new one in
cylinder could be bypassing on inside
old hoses, they don't last forever. bottom of the boom is where all the bending/ flexing is done
look in tractor house several places
make sure pressure is released before unhooking
try shoup's or sloan's
if he didn't file the burr it would cut the seal
splines on shaft not lined up
find a tractor house or fastline book, there is an ad for a place in Anniston