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Hey JC, On a similar topic, I'm still using the post hole digger but when I'm simply driving the tractor around or days I'm not using it I chain the post hole digger to the bar as shown below and let the digger down. This way the digger is up and I can drive the tractor around without constant...

From my photo below there is a 'lip' on the seal and that lip goes up if the red side of the piston is up. I'm calling the 'lip' the part of the seal that is larger in outside diameter than the rest of the seal. this may be what you're calling the 'groove'. From what JC told me you only have one...

No... I've not loosened any banjo connections then ran the tractor. Is that next? I'm no newbie to drawings but the ones I know are building architectural drawings and not schematics. The one you posted is backwards and upside down from the actual positioning of the control valve assemble...

Here's where I am. The big picture... The clyinder the valve is rusted in. Note that the valve is somewhat hollowed out to allow for spring placement. The valve is in the lower left portion of the pic and the hollowed out part is in the middle with the dimple in the center. My access...

Yes, I'm now sure the rust is inside the top cylinder and parts. Note on the pdf that the 2 #20's are o-rings in holes that expose the guts of the bottom 2 clyinders. What isn't shown in the pdf is the hole directly on top of the whole unit (#1). Look at this pic and you'll find the hole...

Well... I got no flow! Fearing I was looking at a new hyd pump I called NH for a price. $834 I told them what I was doing and they sent me to a service guy who said... He's worked on about 50-60 1710's where the 3 pt wouldn't lift and 9 out of 10 times it's a dirty control assembly...

So back to parts cleaning (even though beer is a better topic)... I'm new to all this tractor work but have saved a bundle in the last couple weeks. I've taken off the control valve cover with control valve assembly attached. A NH service tech said (sight unseen) to soak it in a 'solvent,' blow...

I agree... Here is a detail of the 1710 priority valve and the o-rings I replaced. My valve is similar to the full view but the top connection is the same as the insert in the lower right corner. In the full-view pic below I replaced the following o-rings: #5 on the underneath right...

Yup... valves, spools, checks can all be confusing. Just so I'm very clear... this is the assembly I'm to remove giving me the 2 springs and ball bearings in your previous post? My instructions (like baking a cake): Remove the above assembly Start the tractor with the lift lever fully down...

Timing couldn't be better... I was on my way to NH when your post came over my blackberry. I didn't buy the 0-rings but priced them at about $16 for the pair. I took the piston out and found the seal looks new. Here's a pic. I'm going to put it back together with the original seal (since it...

It's a rainy day here is North Central Texas... I'll listen for noise but I sure don't remember hearing any. Great observation about the leak on the discharge side. Are you referring to the 'lift cylinder' piston seal? When I recieved the operator's manual I was suprised to find the IT FO-44...

Thanks, Yes, the owners manual says different fluid for front versus transmission. Only thing I can think of is that the transmission was overfilled because I got nearly 8 gallons when I drained it. The manual says 27.5 quarts so it must have been overfilled by at least a gallon. I don't have...

GREAT! Thanks for your patience. I'm certainy not ruling out an adjustment or other repair. Just so I can't screw this up we're talking about the fitting similar to the one pictured below and circled in your eariler pdf? There should also be 2 o-rings to replace. It looks like I might have...

Sounds like I really need to buy a manual (probably a no brainer) since I don't even know how to change the hyd fulid and filters. Last I remember the tractor had routien service at about 200 hours but I'm not sure draining the hyd fluid and replacing the filters is included in this service...

The basics... Ford 1710 tractor 593 hours Sat in the elements unused for 15 years Tractor and bucket have been used for the past year Put the post hole digger on and it won't raise Ford post hole digger (905 I believe) The digger turns just fine Why won't the 3 point hitch go up? Here are...

Here is where it appears to be spewing out... It does leak when there is a load on the bucket as well. I'm not exactly sure if it leaks from the top of the nut, bottom of the blue cylinder, or bottom of the nut. This is my last set of pics. If you want something else shown just let me know...

This reply talks about the brass pipe on the bottom left of the part and shown below. The brass pipe runs directly to the steering wheel area. The area that is behind the gear shift levers and one's knees when sitting on the tractor. This area is shielded by the tractor body.

Here is another zoomed-out view. In this pic you can see a bigger blue pipe that crosses over the oil filter. This bigger blue pipe runs back to behind my left foot plate as shown below.

Sorry, I posted pics and then relaized I had the descriptions wrong so I deleted that post. Let me try this again! I'm going to post several replies so I don't get confused with what's what. Below is a zoomed-out view. Below is a blue pipe (bottom right) that comes in at the bottom of the...

Ford 1710 It leaks (pours) hydraulic fulid out of the top of this part (brass nut on top) when I try to use the post hole digger. The digger no longer raises and the fluid loss is too bad to even try to use the digger anymore. It doesn't appear to affect the bucket but only the rear 3PH. Can...

Ford 1710 It leaks (pours) hydraulic fulid out of the top of this part (brass nut on top) when I try to use the post hole digger. The digger no longer raises and the fluid loss is too bad to even try to use the digger anymore. It doesn't appear to affect the bucket but only the rear 3PH. Can...