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  1. #1
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    Default Head Gasket Seal that won't

    I recently replaced a head gasket on my 19 HP 57 cubic Inch (or so) Shibaura engine (Ford 1310).

    After two attempts, I still have very small leaks between the head and the block. The problem seems to be that the metal rings on the head gasket keep the paper part of the gasket from forming a good seal. The first install was bare gasket, many unacceptable leaks. On the second stab, I used very thickly sprayed Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket Hi Temp Sealant.

    I'm not getting water in the oil or oil in the water. If it doesn稚 lose excess amounts of either during operation, I'll likely leave it alone or possibly use some cooling system stop leak (Ick).

    Any Idea where I went wrong? Ive done many automotive and other small gas engines without sealant and honestly have never had a problem; just torque the head bolts to specs and move on.
    Last edited by kc5sii; 02-22-2012 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Bad Port from Word

  2. #2
    Veteran Member
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    International Harvester 284, Yanmar 1401D, Yanmar 240, and others...many others...

    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    Have you checked the block and head to make sure they are flat? What prompted the gasket replacement? Especially if the engine overheated, one or both may have warped, and thus won't give a good seal.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    I doubt it. I just had the head reworked for a crack. They Cold Stiched it. I assume they checked it for warpage. But, then, I didn't ask the question.

    Physics tell me that if the metal rings don't allow the head to mesh with the block, then the gasket, which is thinner than the rings, won't have good surface contact with both surfaces. The gasket is very close to the origianl. Maybe .003 difffernece at the metal rings. The gap seems much larger than that. Maybe it will work itself out.


    Quote Originally Posted by 284 International View Post
    Have you checked the block and head to make sure they are flat? What prompted the gasket replacement? Especially if the engine overheated, one or both may have warped, and thus won't give a good seal.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    rings shouldnt be preventing a seal becuase they crush. How about putting arp thread sealant on the head bolts

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    Have you got the Service Manual Specifications? Also, Torque - let set for 24 hours re-torque...(allows metal of head bolts to pre-stretch) also if you are re-using the old headbolts they are already stretched and the tolerances could be so tight they are not seating the head/gasket to block (why new head bolts are always recomended on head work)... also making sure the head bolt holes are free from liquids and particles - any moisture in an enclosed bolt hole will create a pneumatic force (pressure) against a head bolt as well and later can contribute to a cracked block. I might have the service manual so let me know if you need some information.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    I think the fact that the head was cracked and repaired may be a clue. If I understand correctly now, the coolant is leaking to the outside of the engine, because there is a gap between the block and head there, while the cylinder is sealed well against compression leaking out by the metal crush rings.

    I would suggest verifying the block and head are true; they are already suspect to me given the history.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    this is common with some automotive issues also. usually has to do with aftermarket gaskets. Probably not the case with your parts outlet. Maybe one more coat of that copper spray...

  8. #8
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    did you retorque after warm?

    if it is only an external leak, and not mixing internally.. and a minor leak at that.. hit a cnh dealer and get a bottle of head gasket sealer. it's essentially a brown past you add to the cooling system.. kinda like bars leak..e tc. yeah.. it's a mechanic in the can.. but at least it has a CNH lable on it.. worth the 4$ to try if everything else is ok.. all that said. I'm not a fan of 'wait and see' on head gasket leaks. I like those to be good from the get go. a drip at a crank seal or stuff liek that.. I don't mind waiting and watching... also.. I'm not a fan of mechanic in a can.. though every once in a while you do strike gold, and / or get incredibly lucky.. etc. )

    good luck

    soundguy

  9. #9
    Silver Member
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    Thumbs up Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    Thanks, I'm taking a watch and see approach right now. It doesn't seem to be spitting a detectable amount of water or oil and nothing drips to the ground.

    Maybe I'm in the green after all. The rediatore seems to want to be full just above the ends of the core pathways. I think I'll get one of those non contact thermometers and see what it shows for operating temp.

    I haven't actually put it to work yet. I did make a couple of 1/2 mile trips. One for a test run and the other to haul off a dead skunk. Everything seemed kosher at that point.

    I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

  10. #10
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Head Gasket Seal that won't

    keep watching oil for emulsion.. that's the biggest.. that and running out of water leading to an overheat issue.. plus filling a jug with water and hydro locking..

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