1700 ford Temperature question

[ARAYT]

Can someone tell me the normal temperature drop I should be getting across the radiator? Replaced head and temp keeps rising. Tractor runs good starts fine but seems to be getting to hot. i can bush hog about an hour and the temp gradually keeps rising. I checked with an IR temp gauge and was getting about 8-10 degrees change. I checked the head at several locations after running about an hour and was getting 200-203 in several locations. Don't want to mess anything up. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Ray

 

[square1]

Did you check temp at the T-stat housing? 200-203 isn't too hot.

Test 1325: Ford 1700 Diesel 12-Speed
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2694&context=tractormuseumlit

 

[ARAYT]

No not at the housing. I checked at the hose connection in and out of the radiator and Just around the head. I feel certain the temp would keep rising if I kept using it. I just replace the head (expensive) and really cautious about getting it to hot. It reached the hot mark on the gauge or the mark just before bottoming out. I know its an idiot lite but it never run this far to the right prior cylinder head replacement. Should I check at the housing if so do you have an idea what it should be? Thanks Ray

 

[284 International]

I would expect something like a 20 to 30 degree (Fahrenheit) drop or more across the radiator based on literature I've read on similar cooling systems.

Typically radiator inlet temperatures seem to be between 180 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit, assuming the engine has a thermostat. Anything markedly above or below that is indicative of something amiss.

If the coolant temperature drop is quite large, there is a problem with the flow of coolant through the system, likely a stuck thermostat or corroded water pump.

If the coolant temperature is fairly small, the radiator is blocked, either internally or externally, and/or the fan isn't moving suficient air.


For my money, it's basically best practice on an older tractor to simply get the radiator rodded out at a proper radiator shop and to ensure all the fins are straight and free from obstruction. I run some sort of surfactant (Water Wetter or equivalent) in my cooling systems, but any "band-aid" type treatments aren't really fixing the underlying cause of the problem. Without adequate flow through the radiator, of both air and coolant, the system will not properly function. Having it rodded and tested also allows for preemptive discovery of pinhole leaks that corrosion may be clogging.

 

[square1]

Should I check at the housing if so do you have an idea what it should be?

There are a lot of variables, 2500 RPM in road gear with no load on a sub freezing day and 2500 RPM brush hogging waist deep weeds on a 90 degree day are (is ) going to yield two very different results with all other things being equal. The latter could reach a problematic operating temperature quickly even without a mechanical issue.

The test data in the link in my first post gives a good baseline for comparison. Half of the tests had operating temps north of 200 F.

Another thing to watch for when brush hogging (well anytime, but especially when brush hogging) is the radiator fins aren't getting plugged with cottonwood seeds and / or other plant matter. The radiators on these tractors don't have a lot of surface area so it doesn't take much debris to cause temperatures to continue to climb and it can happen very quickly.

 

[ARAYT]

Thanks for the info. I keep the RPMs around 2000 max and the field is not to bad, mostly coffee weed. I did make sure the radiator screen was clear.ue I looked at the link sq.1 attached but did not notice the temp info. I see what your saying. Maybe it's not a problem. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the response.
Ray

 

[ARAYT]

Thanks for the info. I keep the RPMs around 2000 max and the field is not to bad, mostly coffee weed. I did make sure the radiator screen was clear.ue I looked at the link sq.1 attached but did not notice the temp info. I see what your saying. Maybe it's not a problem. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the response.
Ray

Guys, I tried it again and the temp kept rising. Ran it about 45 minutes and it steadily kept climbing, it got to about 220 degrees and started lifting the cap. Gonna pull the radiator off and have it cleaned. What's your feeling on the water pump? Know of any history of having problems with them wearing out? I can see it's pumping, who know how much. I sure hope the rebuilt head I installed is not causing this problem. Thanks for your responses.
Ray

 

[284 International]

I have never heard of anything peculiar to those water pumps wearing out soon or anything like that, but let's face it: That's a 35-ish year old machine. There's a reasonable probability that the entire cooling system is not up to the condition it had been when new. Rodding the radiator is a great start. Make sure that the fins are all straight, and that the fan shroud is tight and not mangled. The cooling fan on my 1700 shed some pieces of blade and wasn't moving the air it should; replacements are available and mine moved markedly more air when replaced than the broken original unit.

I run a surfactant in my motorcycles and tractors. Water Wetter is one such product, but there are others. It cannot make up for an inadequate cooling system entirely, but if you have a freshly refurbished radiator and new cap, with a good fan and tight shroud, a proper mixture of coolant, distilled water, and surfactant means if the machine still overheats you almost certainly have engine trouble.

I THOROUGHLY (With soap, copious amounts of water, etc) flush the cooling system on the engine side before I install any cleaned or new radiators. There is a surprising amount of detritus in the bottom of cast iron engine blocks, in my experience, that can only impair cooling performance, and pose a hazard in blocking the tubes of the radiator.

 

[ARAYT]

Pulled the water pump, it showed no wear. Got the radiator off hope to have it cleaned in a couple days. Many thanks for the help and advise. I'll let you,ll know the outcome. Ray

 

[square1]

We're pulling for you, remember we're all in this together

Seriously, do keep us updated. Thanks.