Gentlemen:
I'm happy to say that I finally embarked upon my worklight project this weekend. All the information many of you posted here and on other thread regarding this subject was incredibly useful and gave me the confidence that I could handle the project.
I should point out that I am not by nature a DIYer at all. The first mechanical thing I ever did was the 50 hr service on my tractor - again with the help of many a TBNer who guided me through it.
The setup I finally went for was primarily inspired by clenhart's setup.
To summarise:
- I added a new 30 fuse on a 10G wire I ran right from the battery terminal to power two worklight circuits (rear and front).
- I used two automotive 30A relays ($5.99 each at Princess Auto).
- I used two toggle switches with marine rubber boots - purchased at NAPA. I don't have the invoice in front of me but the switches were about $9 each and the boots were $13 each!. I was not able to source them locally elsewhere for cheaper so I just bit the bullet even though I'm pretty sure I way overpaid.
- I ran two 14 guage wires from the relays to the rear of the tractor to power my worklights.
- I used the factory worklight ciruit as the trigger voltage for the relays.
- I used a lot for information from
this thread including bjcsc's modified wiring diagram (original posted by bigballer). While in my setup, the switches are rated at 20A anyway, I decided to get the to control the trigger voltage reaching the relays rather than using bigballer's original diagram which had the relays close as soon as the key swtich was turned on.
I don't yet have my sunshade which I plan on ordering next week. I was going to get a Wells Ag sunshade until I found out what shipping + customs brokerage etc. would cost - just about doubles the price of it! I think I have found a sunshade locally that I am happy with.
For the time being I have temporarily hooked up one of the two rear floods to a pre-existing hole on the rear fender. Magically, the bolt for the light happens to fit in it.
I have not been able to source trapezoids for the front locally at a decent price. Floods were available at Princess Auto for $18 each. They had spot lights but no traps. Napa wants $45 each for the same lights but they do have trapezoids. I might have to resort to that.
Here is a summary of the photos I am attaching.
Worklights1: Most of the components. Two relays, two switches, various connectors, 10G wire, 14G wire etc.
Worklights2: 2 floodlights and plastic automotive housing.
Worklights3: Relays, switches and marine boots.
Worklights4: 30A ATC fuses and weather proof fuse box.
Worklights5: Tractor with loader and center hump cover removed and ready for work.
Worklights5.5: Close up of center hump with cover removed - this is a before picture for reference.
Worklights6: Fuse holder terminated with ring connector which fits the nut from the +ve terminal.
Worklights7: Fuse holder connected to +ve terminal. 10G main wire hooked up to fuse. Plastic housing in place around fuse holder and 10G wire.
Worklights8: Routed 10G wire towards rear of tractor.
Worklights9: Found room near existing factory wiring to route new housing through. I cut out a little corner of the rubber to get the new housing through.
Worklights10: Factory fusebox detached and yellow worklight circuit wire cut to tap into for the trigger voltage for the relays. As a newbie I cut too cut too close to the fusebox and had to struggle a bit when connecting up the wires to take the trigger voltage upto the dash. When I hooked everything up, it didn't initially work. When I debugged it, i found that the connection to the trigger voltage had come off. Made moe worry about my crimping skills. I double checked all the other butt connectors. Hopefully they will hold up.
Worklights11: By the fuseblock there was a bolt that was being used for another ground wire. I decided to run a new ground from here my me to use in the dash for the relays. You can see that in the previous picture I have already hooked up a black wire with a ring connector to this bolt.
Worklights12: The dash has been unscrewed (although you can't see it too well). Relays have been connected - still hanging out of the dash. Ready for testing.
Worklights13: Relays and wiring secured behind dash. I used zip ties to secure them to existing clamps back there.
Worklights14: Cleaned up new wiring and housing around fusebox. I think I've got three new plastic housings going there. One for the 10G wire from terminal. Two for the trigger voltage wires from fusebox and new ground, and one to return the two wires that will power the worklight circuits. I was only using 3/8 plastic housing. The housings have been zip tied neatly so that the fusebox is still accessible.
Worklights15: I drilled the dash while it was loosened off. I was worried about cracking the plastic but clenhart assured me that it was pretty solid. Since I didn't have a step drill bit, I started with a very small hole and then worked up. I probably drilled each hole 4 times each time with a successively larger drill bit. It was no problem at all. I installed the toggle switches and bolted the dash back on. I remembered of course to re-connect the tachometer cable which I had disconnected to loosen the dash off to give me enough room to work.
Worklights 16: Housing with worklight circuit wires secured along hump to existing factory housing towards rear of tractor.
Worklights 17: Towards the middle of the housing there was another bolt that was used as place for ground - a wire from the factory housing tapped in here for ground. I decided to also run a ground wire from here in my new housing to the rear in my new housing - for use as ground.
Worklights 18: New wiring is secured with zip ties to existing factory wiring and taken to the rear left fender.
Worklights 19: I am only using one lighting circuit for a single temporary flood. I have secured the rest of the wiring under the fender with a zip tie.
Worklight 20: One flood light attached at rear to pre-existing hole in the fender. If someone is looking for only rear floods, this is a pretty sweet spot to mount an oval flood. Each fender has these holes. A 4x6 is not a good permanent setup here as it covers part of the flasher. This will work for now for a bit of snow blowing in the night until my sunshade gets delivered.
I will post once I get the sunshade and the lights are in their final mounts on the sunshade.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks to everyone who has helped me.
