Snow Help me ballast my 2210 for snow work

I'm a new 2210 owner, and don't yet have the tractor in "ballance". It has the 210 loader, and a RB2072 rear blade. The first night I owned it I was pushing back snow berms and ran up on one and crashed the blade in to the pavement. The next morning I noticed the top link was bent.

So the next time out, I took off the blade and went back to the berms again. I nearly tipped it over several times. I'd get a scoop and back and turn as I was lifting it up, and the CG would change enough that one rear tire would start lifting off the ground. Twice I would have bailed off of the machine if the seatbelt had not stopped me, out of sheer surprise at the way the tractor was tipping.

It was not until I got back to the house that I realized that removing the blade had drastically changed the balance of the tractor.

I've read that I can ballast the rear tires, but don't yet have instructions for that. I've seen ballast boxes, but I don't think I can use them when the blade is on. I intend to use the blade to plow back berms and move snow, so don't want to take it off and on a lot.

With the blade on, the tractor is much longer and I can't even turn around in my road without burying it in a snow bank. It might be nice to take it off when I'm moving berms on the road just for that reason I guess.

So what do people do?

How much does your rear blade weigh? I have a ballast box that weighs about 500# filled with sand. If maneuvering space is a problem, get the ballast box, or make one as a number of members have done from old 55-gallon drums and the like.

If you need the blade, then see about hanging some suitcase weights on it, or fabricating something to hold weights on the blade. Your manual should give you information on ballasting the tractor.

If you don't want to fill the tires with liquid, check into cast iron wheel weights.

I would think it would take a heck of a lot of force to bend the top link, so I'm wondering if you are working the tractor to hard.

Also...if the ROPS is up, wear your seatbelt! If the ROPS is folded down or non-existent, don't wear your belt so you have a chance of jumping clear.

Just found this thread about doing tires, so I'm going to try that tomorrow. That'll add 190 pounds or so.

The blade weights 285 pounds acording to the manual. That'll almost give me 500 pounds more weight than today.

I like the suitcase weights idea on the blade- I'll look in to that.

If you need to operate your tractor fast enough to bend the top link when the blade slams into the pavement, or turn while you quickly back up, and raise the bucket at the same time, I would suggest that you also install the wheel spacers that JD has available. They might be listed as an X7XX part number, but they fit, and work on a 2210. I'm not being critical at all since we all have our own way of doing things, but I tend to operate somewhat slower when I'm doing that kind of thing.

I agree with options already mentioned above. When I first got my 2210, I too learned real quick to slow down and use ballast when using the fel. Like a dummy, I stuck my foot out like I was going to hold the thing up when it started to roll, it liked to have shot me out the otherside (never rolled it). Afterwards, I thought to my self, wow I could have broken the leg in a hurry. After cleaning the smelly stuff out of my pants, seat belt went on along with the ballast box.

My ROP is always up and I make it a point to keep the seat belt on when in the tractor...

But having the ballast does make a significant difference in the stability of the tractor. But would probably go with the suit case weights on the back blade in your application. That way I am not always running around with the extra weight when I don't have the fel on the rig. I also use a ballast box filled with sand.

ChuckinNH said:

If you need to operate your tractor fast enough to bend the top link when the blade slams into the pavement, or turn while you quickly back up, and raise the bucket at the same time, I would suggest that you also install the wheel spacers that JD has available. They might be listed as an X7XX part number, but they fit, and work on a 2210. I'm not being critical at all since we all have our own way of doing things, but I tend to operate somewhat slower when I'm doing that kind of thing.

Click to expand...

X2... But even with weight, if you are going that fast, it might bite ya....

Not to be critical, but it sounds like your in a hurry. Slow down and enjoy the ride. Even with your tractor ballast properly you still have to consider how the tractor will react to different ground changes. The faster you go the quicker you have the potential to get in trouble. Again slow down and enjoy your tractor.

Sincerely, Dirt

"X2... But even with weight, if you are going that fast, it might bite ya...."

Yes, I was being very conservative.

Don't know what your 2210 weighs. I have a 26HP Mahindra that I made a rear ballast for. I used a plastic 55 gallon barrel, welded in some cross supports and bracing, then filled it about 3/4 full of redi mix cement. It weighs about 800 lb. You may not need that much, maybe 500 lb would work for you. The barrel doesn't stick back as far as a rear blade. You could make one similar and fill it with cement or sand or whatever.

I think I figured out how I bent the top link- With the blade fully raised, I have 7.5" of clearance. If I lift the front end more than 3-4", the blade hits the ground. I got the tractor stuck once and was using the bucket to try to lift/push it out, and I bet I got it too high and that is what bent the link.

I'm going to look in to a hydraulic top link- if I could shorten it up when it was not in use by 6" or so, that would lift it at least 6" more off of the ground.

I wouldn't say I'm moving that fast- I'm certainly a new operator, and was working in low gear. My pedals need a lot of pressure to go fast too. My main problem was being too light and picking up the occasional ice ball that landed in the corner of the loader. I think my suggesting that it was the fast turns tipping me was incorrect now- as when I came to a dead stop, the wheel did not come back down. I had to drop the loader to get all my feet back on earth. I'll consider the spacers anyway though- I'm very afraid of rolling, so anything that helps is worth thinking about.

I've always got the belt on too- even on the flat. I figure I've only got to go 50' or less in any direction to be on a hill that can roll me, so I've always got to wear it or I'll forget to put it on before I need it.

I saw someone with suitcase weights on a quick hitch- that looked like a very good idea. Compatible with the blade, but can stay on if I take the blade off, and easily removable if I head in to the woods on soft ground.

Thanks a lot for the comments all- I appreciate the thoughts and review of my tactics.