Loader Replacing a culvert. Questions...

dnels0n · Aug 25, 2011

After spending a couple hours hand digging at the upper end of a clogged culvert, I inspected the other end with a big flashlight. The pipe was damaged(probably in the original installation) and was full of tree roots. I am going to have to dig it out or have it done. It measures about 22 feet long and I think 16 inches diameter.

Here is my original driveway project post http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/176939-major-driveway-project-opinions-please.html
and here is a link to 3 pictures of the current problem Driveway shots before and after Photo Gallery by Don Nelson at pbase.com

If I get a toothed blade to go on the B3300/La504 loader, can I dig that pipe out? I am concerned about how deep I will be able to reach with the loader blade. Also, this is one of the "best" parts of the driveway as it has a nice layer of packed crush run, if I soak it a day or so will it dig reasonably well?

Suggestions on tooth bar for La504?

Thanks for any help.

dusty3030 · Aug 25, 2011

You could get down to it probably even without a toothbar. If you have a boxblade drop the scarifiers down and break it up first. Be prepared to get a shovel and hand dig out the sides and under it a little to get it where it will break out. With all the dirt packed in around them they kind of get "glued" in. You'll tear through the culvert trying to lift it out before it will break free if you don't have the sides of it dug out a little. Try to scrape your gravel off and keep it separate from the dirt. Pile what you scoop up off to the side somewhere so you can hit it with the tractor from both sides. I've replaced a few that are about as deep as yours and all i've used is a FEL bucket no toothbar, a shovel, and a chain. Can do it in a few hours.

dnels0n · Aug 25, 2011

Thanks, Dusty.
That all sounds reasonable. I figure it will be cooling off a little, at least in the mornings, and I can get this done in the next few weeks.
I went ahead and ordered a tooth bar. I had talked myself out of it twice before so the rule of three(which I just made up) applies.:laughing:

Don

Grandad4 · Aug 25, 2011

+1 to Dusty's recommendations. The first culvert I did was exactly as he described. The FEL + toothbar did 80% of the work; the boxblade did the rest. Ours took longer mostly because it was a 100+ year old gravel roadbed and packed hard as concrete, but even that opened up with the toothbar.

Be sure you know where any underground phone lines, etc. are. The phone co. is notorious around here for laying phone lines just a few inches beneath gravel driveways going into rural homes.

Also, don't be surprised if you need some extra gravel.

jdonovan · Aug 25, 2011

IMO rent a mini-excavator for the day. $200 bucks, and the job can be done in a hour with minimal hand digging.

dougtrr2 · Aug 25, 2011

Do you even need the culvert at all? How often and how much water does it carry? You might be going to a lot of work for little or no benefit. If you put it back are you just going to have the tree root problem again?

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

BeezFun · Aug 25, 2011

I'd hire a plumber that does commercial work to either power rod or hydro jet to make an opening. Then start throwing that root kill stuff they make in there every month or two for awhile when it's not going to rain and let it set for a few days. You'll probably have to do that once a year or so after you get it clear to prevent recurrence. No matter what you put in there it's going to have problems with roots.

crazyal · Aug 25, 2011

I assume you're not going to try and reuse the culvert. When you buy a replacement make sure you get a double wall pipe. The inside will be smooth. They just seam much stronger. Also try to get at least a foot of dirt on top of it.

You may have to remove a fair bit of dirt if you are going to use just the FEL but you can make piles of each type of dirt so you can put the crusher run back down last. I have found crusher run is greats stuff. It packs well but it also is pretty easy to dig up and regrade.

dnels0n · Sep 1, 2011

Can't hire out or rent toys when I have the tractor... Maybe after the smoke clears.:laughing:
I have been working on the ditch on that side of the driveway, but there is a good size forested valley that drains at this point. If the ditch doesn't carry enough water, it will cross the drive. I feel better replacing the pipe.
In any case the tooth bar arrives shortly, so installing that is the next project.

Thanks for the replies,

Don

Jay4200 · Sep 2, 2011

dnels0n said:
Can't hire out or rent toys when I have the tractor...

Good for you.

Stuff a 4x4 down the pipe, drive over the top of the pipe and then connect a chain from the tractor to the 4x4. Drive forward, and you'll rip the pipe right out of the ground. MOve the chain to the pipe, then rip out the rest. Clean up the groove with your bucket, drop in a new pipe, then fill it back in.

JayC