show your homemade splitter pics here

[Oasis]

My DIY 3PH splitter. It's working just fine. Pretty fast and compact too.

Link to post: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...-splitter.html

[Diamondpilot]

Nice job. Just 1 question, is the push arm removable? Just wondering about maintenance.

Chris

[smfcpacfp]

Built this 30 years ago:

[GuglioLS]

Here's one I put together with scrap metal.
Two mobile home tongue I beams 3" wide x 12" tall x 3/16" thick welded together side by side to make a 6" x 12" "super" I beam.

4-1/2" x 30" stroke hydraulic cylinder from e-bay. It has a 1-1/2" push rod and ~ 25 tons of force. Prince auto return detent valve from Northern Tool along with all the hoses and fittings.
Here is the result:




Put the whole thing on wheels to tow it around. I use the tractor hydraulics to power it from either my Jinma tractor, 1953 Ford TLB, or Komatsu Bull Dozer depending on which needs the workout.



All the push ram parts are 1" thick x 6" wide The valve is mounted to the cylinder with a piece of angle iron this located the valve in a very handy spot.





Close up of push ram construction:




Wedge cut out of 1"x6" cold rolled.
The two 45* wedge angels cut on bandsaw:




Action Video:



Here is a REAL good example of how not to split a log (one for the safety police)





And of course running it off the dozer hydraulics at idle:



Larry

[radioman]

GuglioLS you need to run a half moon or almost full circle bead of weld on the pushing block face. This will help to prevent slipping of logs when splitting. It shouldnt be a very pretty weld- a rough weld is best due to the unevenness of the beads acting like teeth to hold the wood in place.

[Gizmo2]

GuglioLS you need to run a half moon or almost full circle bead of weld on the pushing block face. This will help to prevent slipping of logs when splitting. It shouldnt be a very pretty weld- a rough weld is best due to the unevenness of the beads acting like teeth to hold the wood in place.

I would add, A higher cutting wedge also prevents most of this.

[GuglioLS]

GuglioLS you need to run a half moon or almost full circle bead of weld on the pushing block face. This will help to prevent slipping of logs when splitting. It shouldnt be a very pretty weld- a rough weld is best due to the unevenness of the beads acting like teeth to hold the wood in place.

So I take it you liked the flying log vid?

"It shouldnt be a very pretty weld" - Well that should be easy LOL

Great advise, instead of a crappy weld how about a 6"X6" square chunk of expanded metal welded to the pusher face ?


Larry

[GuglioLS]

I would add, A higher cutting wedge also prevents most of this.

Since taking those videos several years ago, I've done exactly that. Attached is a pic of the second story cutting wedge I added. Total height is now 12". Oh and I added some "wings" to catch the logs so they don't fall off. It still needs a few improvements here and there but I'm getting close to a "safer" more efficient log splitter.

Larry

[Zork]

This is an early circa 80's model made from the old Northern Hydraulics catalog....what a beast!

[Gizmo2]

Since taking those videos several years ago, I've done exactly that. Attached is a pic of the second story cutting wedge I added. Total height is now 12". Oh and I added some "wings" to catch the logs so they don't fall off. It still needs a few improvements here and there but I'm getting close to a "safer" more efficient log splitter.

Larry

I like it, nice addition. I started out with a 12" wedge then added two pieces of heavy angle iron. I always wanted to add wings to the one I built but never got around to it, it's a good idea.
Notice the axe mark on the wedge? This happened just before I added the angle iron to the wedge. I had a block of wood stuck on the wedge and tried to remove it with my axe, live and learn.