TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

[LotsofGreenGrass]

Maybe You have service manual for K-46 in pdf. I cant find it at Tuff Torq website. I think , I should change oil in K-46, but I dont know how. It is three years old and traktor has 287 hour work. MikeloK

No, I don't have a service manual. You should be able to follow my guide. It is not that hard, if you are patient. At 287 hours, you might as well rebuild it. Look for metal shavings on the magnet. That should be a clue as to the condition of your transmission. You were lucky to get that far!

[LotsofGreenGrass]

I have a John deere L105 with K46 in it. It looses power on the uphill pretty much right from the start. So it looks like the transmission is going bad. One thing that I don't understand is why ToffTorg charges over $600 for a new transmission!!!??? I can buy a new JD tractor for $1,300 - $1,400 (or a lot less for other brands). Are you saying that the transmission is worth almost 40% of the total price???
This kind of pisses me off, that the TuffTorg gauges people that have their tranny problems. The rest of the tractor works just fine, the engine, etc.
How much do you think TuffTorg sells the tranny to John Deere for?? I bet it's not $600! Otherwise the tractor would be way more expensive. I understand that they are a business and need to make money, but when their part goes bad and the rest of the tractor works just fine, they should not ask these crazy prices. I would think a $300 would be reasonable to get a new tranny. What do you think?
thanks,
IG

I am not sure how to answer this question, but I understand your concern. Keep in mind that the manufacturer of the tractors put a LOT of pressure on suppliers to reduce costs in components. TuffTorq will make them any way the tractor manufacturer wants. Because that market is very competitive, the corners are cut by the tractor manufacturer. That's why, for example, the syn oil is NOT supplied OEM.

I have to give TuffTorq credit for technical support and parts.

[subhunter]

lots ofgreengrass

Thanks for the great thread and all the help you have been to the people.

After reading several internet sites I am amazed at all the problems with the TT K46.
No what amazes me is that there has not been a Class Action Law Suit yet.

[LotsofGreenGrass]

lots ofgreengrass

Thanks for the great thread and all the help you have been to the people.

After reading several internet sites I am amazed at all the problems with the TT K46.
No what amazes me is that there has not been a Class Action Law Suit yet.

Glad to help.

Unfortunately, only the lawyers come out well in Class Actions. In fact, there was a settlement in a Class Action Suit on my mower for misleading horsepower figures. It was a joke. I could get a coupon for $35 off a new tractor?? Gee, how thoughtful. Makes me want to shake all of those lawyers hands for pocketing millions and run down and by a whole new machine

[bobH1]

I just finished the first mowing with my '03 JD L130 w/ a rebuilt K46AC that I did myself with the help of Brit, his Guide and Derrick and Dwayne @ TuffTorq Tech support. I replaced both cylinders and the center case w/ filter upgrade kit and she ran like new! All in - with parts, delivery, synthetic oil and PermaTex sealant, spent $316. Anyone who is hesitant to try this themselves, please know that if I can do it, you can too! Just takes a little bit of mechanical ability, time and some patience, and your mower will run like new and you'll save big$$$$! Good luck and feel free to contact me if you have any questions or I can help in any way. Thank you very much Brit for all your time and efforts!!! Regards, Bob

[NutzTN]

Thanks Lots for the well presented repair on the K46. I just bought a Scotts L2048 for a little cash that has a similar problem according to the PO and your explanation of the repair made the deal for me. Funny thing is that the mower climbed the 30 degree ramps into my pickup when it was cold - sound familar?
Mike

[LotsofGreenGrass]

Thanks Lots for the well presented repair on the K46. I just bought a Scotts L2048 for a little cash that has a similar problem according to the PO and your explanation of the repair made the deal for me. Funny thing is that the mower climbed the 30 degree ramps into my pickup when it was cold - sound familar?
Mike

LOL Yes.

[joebob]

K46 fix
I have a John deere L110 w/ 53 hrs., & a bad transaxel.Tried heaver oil, no joy. Looking at the surfaces of the block, & motor & clutch cylinders, I noticed very slight scoring between ports. This was the cause of the failure. I took the parts to a machine shop,& they surface ground the parts for $25! Cleaned everything in mineral spirits, including the filter which came out clean & white, blew everything out, reassembled, added 2 quarts & a cup of 10w30, & bingo a new transaxel!!! It seems a lot of these may have the same prob.Don't waste your money on unnecessary parts for 2 or 3 hundered bucks. A few things to watch on reassembly, you need the drawing from Tuff Torq.

1 Make sure freewheel rod stud inside case clears small pin (#25). When free wheel rod is pulled out, it pushes on pin which pushes on washer (#39), which in turn pushes motor cylinder, breaking seal betw.cyl. & block.

2 Make sure washer (#39) dos'nt stand proud of block surface after machining.

3 Make sure notch in axel pin(#64) corresponds w/notch in bottom case.

4 Note orientation of motor housing(#36).If you get it backwards, pedal operation will be reversed.

1

[LotsofGreenGrass]

K46 fix
I have a John deere L110 w/ 53 hrs., & a bad transaxel.Tried heaver oil, no joy. Looking at the surfaces of the block, & motor & clutch cylinders, I noticed very slight scoring between ports. This was the cause of the failure. I took the parts to a machine shop,& they surface ground the parts for $25! Cleaned everything in mineral spirits, including the filter which came out clean & white, blew everything out, reassembled, added 2 quarts & a cup of 10w30, & bingo a new transaxel!!! It seems a lot of these may have the same prob.Don't waste your money on unnecessary parts for 2 or 3 hundered bucks. A few things to watch on reassembly, you need the drawing from Tuff Torq.

1 Make sure freewheel rod stud inside case clears small pin (#25). When free wheel rod is pulled out, it pushes on pin which pushes on washer (#39), which in turn pushes motor cylinder, breaking seal betw.cyl. & block.

2 Make sure washer (#39) dos'nt stand proud of block surface after machining.

3 Make sure notch in axel pin(#64) corresponds w/notch in bottom case.

4 Note orientation of motor housing(#36).If you get it backwards, pedal operation will be reversed.

1

Hi JoeBob,
Can you describe bit more about the "ports" you are talking about?

[joebob]

Hi lots;
The ports are in a ring around the block & cyl. surfaces. If you look at say the cyl. surface, if I remember correctly, there are 3 bright rings around the mating surface of the cyl. The center ring has 3 or 4 holes in it, which is were the oil passes thru.The scoring in my case was between these ports,letting the oil leak between them.It only took a very slight grind to clean it up.Hope this helps.Too bad I could'nt have helped others before they spent their money. Tractor still running great.

Cheers
PS The info I got from Tuff Torq shows this cyl.