Electric selector valve

Alright, I've been researching how to plumb in a standard, open-center, 4-way, 3-position, single-spool valve, and I'm not sure that I'm any further along than I was this morning! (However, I have learned a few things from talking with folks!)

I've been told by someone at PT to plumb it in with "T's", but a hydraulic supplier said that would never work...the fluid would flow the path of least resistance and all go through the unactivated valve's open center. Sounds right to me.

The same supplier said that I might be able to plumb it in series, but that might not work based on any relief settings in the original vavle or the system in general.

I'm thinking Charlie's diverter valve sure sounds simpler to me. And the more I think about it, the more I like the electric one even though it costs about twice the price of the manual one.

Here's a link to the electric one on Surplus Center


Since, as I understand it, the selector valve essentially goes inline with the lines going to (for instance) the curl cylinder, this sounds like it would not be rocket science to install and get it working. Also, since there's little or no "uncertainty" around whether it will actually work or not, sounds like it would be a much better choice over plumbing something into the "guts" of the machine's hydraulic system.

I think I just talked myself into this... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Dave:
Without a diagram, I can't tell if that valve does exactly what mine does. It sounds as if it does. You have to be careful to verify that it is a stand alone diverter, connected only by hoses, and not one that fits in a stack and/or needs an adapter block of some sort.

Thanks, Charlie. I will verify that...

I was looking at the hoses that go to the curl cylinder this morning...they're both on the front of the machine and within easy reach. This looks like it would be a pretty simple install.

Dave

I just talked to surplus center, and looks like this one would actually be the better choice for what I want to do:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003032715315196&item=9-1782&catname=hydraulic

This one has 6 ports: two are the pressure/return ports of course, then two are default output ports when no voltage is applied (would go to the original curl cylinder), and the final two are diverted ports when a voltage is applied (would have quick connects on the ends to plug into another cylinder).

The one I posted in the first post has no default ports. With a voltage on one solenoid you get a flow to one set of ports, a voltage on the other solenoid gets you a flow to 2nd set, and (I think) a voltage on both gets you a flow to both (or something like that).

Cool beans.

Does anyone recall right off if the hoses to the lift and curl cylinders are 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT? I'll need adapter fittings to convert the female SAE 6 ports on the diverter valve to the correct size male NPT ports...

Dave

That one looks right to me. Can't help you on hose sizes. I took the valve and a hose to the hydraulic place and assembled a kit without really knowing the sizes or types - just that they went together.

Here's a manual selector valve:

<a href="http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=20870" target="_blank">http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=20870[/url]</a>

So, I guess the question is do I really need the convenience of an electric switch on the joystick, or should I just mount this mechanical valve on the "dash" left of the steering wheel? The hoses would have to be longer.

Charlie, any idea how well the solenoid on these electric selectors stand up to being wet and dirty?

Thanks!
Dave

Bad link on that last one Dave.

A manual selector valve is pretty inexpensive(under $30.00) but you have to push it in to do the other function, then pull it out for the other function. The plumbing would probably be the same as for the electric one, right? So, for only about $110 or so more(plus switch and wires) you could have the electric one. I'd go for the electric one. Of course, I'm spending your money, not mine /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Strange on the URL....? Anyway, the product# is 2071 on www.northerntool.com.

Yes, I believe the plumbing would be exactly the same, with the exception that (in my case) the hoses would need to be longer. I'd mount the electric one on the front of the PT near the hoses, but I couldn't do that with the manual one, it would actually need to be mounted where I could physically reach it /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif, which means on the dash, probably left of the steering wheel. I'd have to use longer hoses to insert it between the joystick valve and the original cylinder.

MR, did you ever decide how you're going to go on the grapple you're building? How's progress on that, just out of curiosity? (Come on down to NC and let's weld that sucker up! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Dave

<font color="red">Charlie, any idea how well the solenoid on these electric selectors stand up to being wet and dirty?
</font>

So far so good with mine. It's been plenty wet and plenty dirty, and so far still works.

[This morning, I got caught in the rain, dragging an old 8' chain harrow around a pasture. Now I'll probably get home to find the diverter solenoid dead.]

[This morning, I got caught in the rain, dragging an old 8' chain harrow around a pasture. Now I'll probably get home to find the diverter solenoid dead.]

Doh! Didn't mean to jinx ya!

Dave