YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[Car Doc]

Domush,

I am impressed !

[tcartwri]

He certainly doesn't mess about.

[RHemmer]

Best Thread EVER! Super job by all!!!!

[Domush]

I just want to say.. Hoye Tractor messed up my entire week. Their package arrived in record time (1 day!), and I was hoping to have a delay so I could actually get some paying work done. Now I'm going to be tempted all week long to work on the tractor some more. What an awful predicament to be in ! Why, Hoye, why are you so awesomely fast at shipping?

Tomorrow I'll be pulling the #3 liner and I'll be sure to throw the new liners in the freezer, save myself a headache getting them in. I have quite a bit of cleaning to do where the liners go, rust and goo (what used to be o-rings) and all.. and hopefully I'll find a minute or two for paying stuff, too.

[JimRB]

What about two threaded rods instead of 1? A little turn on one then a lttle turn on the other.

[kenmac]

I'm going to hate when It comes my turn to do this. I may have to try a little heat from the torch. Or just trade her in

[MJPetersen]

Great example of getting it done. On your puller--that is the weakest dimension of the bar stock. if you had 2 pieces and put them on edge on both sides of the center pull thread, spaced on the ends with a big nut or chunk of something (welded or clamped like that) and use hard washers or a couple of flat washers under the nut you will have a much stronger puller.

Mike

[Car Doc]

MJ is right fact I was thinking out loud if a guy could use 3/4 all thread maybe 2 of them and had a machine shop turn down an insert to fit the bottom of the liners.

Or weld a couple thick chunks together that fit that way and have a shoulder to center it.

He could set bar stock pieces on their sides using pipe nipples welded in between like MJ said at the top and possibly even carefully tap the bottoms from the bottom up like 284 said using lots of spray oil just thinking out loud...good job.

btw I am the guy I mentioned earlier that welded in chunks of metal in liners and proceeded to pound/jack them out hehehe.

[tcartwri]

I wouldn't be swinging a hammer anywhere near those crank journals.

[Domush]

Well, it seems waiting it out works wonders for pulling cylinder liners, as I sprayed some Pb blaster on the #3 liner this evening and, using the new threaded rod, pulled the rest of it right out with hardly any force at all. Either A: I became Hercules over the past few days or B: PB blaster rocks (which I already knew). So, both liners are out and tomorrow I get to cleaning the block holes for the new ones.

I picked up the head today. The machine shop said they had to manually grind the seats, as the 336 head was chewing up their carbide bit. Go Yanmar! Making those indestructible heads. The new seats look great, and the new valves fit them perfectly.

I used some lapping compound to get the new valves seated nicely and also worked on the old valves as well, to get a little pitting out and because.. why not? It's off, I had lapping compound.. sounds like all the reason I needed. Afterwards, I tested the valve seating by sraying some carb cleaner into the ports. All 6 valves didn't leak a drop, even over a few minutes. Perfect!


The head is ready to go.

I added a 1.4mm shim to each valve spring, seeing as i had the seats ground as well as the springs being 30 years old. I just hope they aren't too thick, as those were the slimmest the machine shop had which fit. Anyone know if there is a risk using too thick shims? Is too much spring tension a bad thing? Hastened cam shaft wear, maybe? We're only talking 1.4mm, but I'd rather ask around before reassembling it. I could likely get away with not using them. It's a toss up.

Tomorrow I'll be inserting the new liners and replacing the pistons rings and rod bearings. Hopefully I'll have the pistons reinserted by sundown. If there is time (and energy) left over, I'll see about getting the head reinstalled as well.

Reassembly has begun!