Replacing engine on old troybilt horse

[Western]

I had replaced a motor for my grandfather on his TB Horse about 15 years ago, is was a snap, but he had ordered the replacement directly from TB and paid out the rear . IIRC it was about a 1 hour job, but it was an Identical engine so everything was easy. I know that doest address your cabling question, but from what the other guys said, you can likely get retro fit parts for the gas throttle.

[JoeBuyer]

The cheap chinese engine from HF may be a Honda knock off, but it wouldn't be a Honda. They may have made it so some Honda parts interchange. if you don't want to patronize the Chinese knock off industry (I don't) you can find old front tine rototillers with functioning engines on craigslist that will match up, but check the bolt pattern and shaft size/type closely. Many of those will match up with the throttle cable as well. I would rather put money in a local person's pocket who is clearing out their garage than the Chinese. Whatever engine you put on, make sure you check the oil with the engine level per manufacture's recommendation. The way a Troy Bilt sits, it has the engine at quite an angle, particularly if the depth is set to till deep. Tecumseh engines had their oil fill tube to the rear and if you checked the oil without leveling the engine or at least setting the depth to shallow, you could be way too low on oil even if the oil level indicated normal. I think running low on oil is what attributed to many Tecumseh Troy Bilts throwing rods. Again, this will apply to any engine you install. If the fill tube is to the front, you could add too much oil which can be bad as well.

Many name brand manufactures now have engines made in china now to exact standards. This doesn't apply to knock offs.

[Treemonkey1000]

The cheap chinese engine from HF may be a Honda knock off, but it wouldn't be a Honda. They may have made it so some Honda parts interchange. if you don't want patronize the Chinese knock off industry (I don't) you can find old front tine rototillers with functioning engines on craigslist that will match up, but check the bolt pattern and shaft size/type closely. Many of those will match up with the throttle cable as well. I would rather money in a local person's pocket who is clearing out their garage than the Chinese. Whatever engine you put on, make sure you check the oil with the engine level per manufacture's recommendation. The way a Troy Bilt sits, it has the engine at quite an angle, particularly if the depth is set to till deep. Tecumseh engines had their oil fill tube to the rear and if you checked the oil without leveling the engine or at least setting the depth to shallow, you could be way too low on oil even if the oil level indicated normal. I think running low on oil is what attributed to many Tecumseh Troy Bilts throwing rods. Again, this will apply to any engine you install. If the fill tube is to the front, you could add too much oil which can be bad as well.

Many name brand manufactures now have engines made in china now to exact standards. This doesn't apply to knock offs.

Great point!

[Ken]

There are a couple threads on this if you search. Some guys used the Honda engine as well.

This spring I put a TSC. Honda on my tiller. it was labeled a tiller type and had the throttle control cable attachment.
Getting old and like the easy pull and start every time engine is 50 X better that original where it was yank and pull and do again before starting then would run 15 feet and stall out.
Would recomend this for a tiller engine.
ken

[JoeBuyer]

Hondas do start well, I will agree to that. Not all do, but most will start in one or two pulls. But I have a Briggs IC 8hp on a BCS rear tine tiller that always starts in 4 pulls, never more, never less. That is nice too.

[epinswla]

The Generac engine on my Dixie Chopper says "MADE IN THE USA". Only problem is, from parts that were made from where?

[jskyking]

I have a 8hp troy bilt Horse that I am in the process of removing the engine. Never having removed an engine from a Tiller, I have reached a stopping point. I have removed 3 screws that mount the motor on the frame base plate , another two screws that are near the handle extension and loosened the screws that are contained within the belt housing. I dont have any documentation, so I am progressing slowly. Any ideas and techniques would be greatly appreciated. In addtion, does anyone know if the Harbor freight motor is a "plug and play"?
thx
jt

[Treemonkey1000]

Motor should be plug and play if the output shaft is on the same side and diameter. The motor height should be close to the same so that your belts will tighten up correctly. Disconnect your throttle linkage and the motor bolts should be about it. Take some pictures to help remind yourself how it came apart.

[bcp]

Enginr swap threads:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/r...gine-swap.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/r...ilt-horse.html

Bruce