Changing blades

[mark1]

Now if your LTX1040 is a 2009 model it takes special blades with a "special" star pattern as they only fit one way and have to turn 90 degrees from each other to keep from hitting.also they are torqued to 102 ft lbs. A real job without a air wrench.what is good is changing the spindle brgs.are real easy and cheap.

[rcbe]

Now if your LTX1040 is a 2009 model it takes special blades with a "special" star pattern as they only fit one way and have to turn 90 degrees from each other to keep from hitting.also they are torqued to 102 ft lbs. A real job without a air wrench.what is good is changing the spindle brgs.are real easy and cheap.

The _last_ tool I would choose to achieve 102 ft. lbs. of torque is an air wrench. You have no way of knowing/controlling actual achieved torque values whiile risking taking the fastener past it's rated clamp loading.... Use a calibrated torque wrench.

[Bob_Bainbridge]

The _last_ tool I would choose to achieve 102 ft. lbs. of torque is an air wrench. You have no way of knowing/controlling actual achieved torque values whiile risking taking the fastener past it's rated clamp loading.... Use a calibrated torque wrench.

I've been using an air wrench for 34 years to change the blades since my first 1978 Cub 1450. I really don't think the torque is that critical as long as the blades are tight. Good luck removing the blades without an air wrench.

Bob B.

[rcbe]

I've been using an air wrench for 34 years to change the blades since my first 1978 Cub 1450. I really don't think the torque is that critical as long as the blades are tight. Good luck removing the blades without an air wrench.

Bob B.

And I've been rejecting assemblies built that way since the '60s. One can use an air wrench to assist in breaking loose a stubborn tight blade fastener.. but _not_ to apply clamp loads during assembly.

[Bob_Bainbridge]

And I've been rejecting assemblies built that way since the '60s. One can use an air wrench to assist in breaking loose a stubborn tight blade fastener.. but _not_ to apply clamp loads during assembly.

What does that mean? Are you an inspector on the Cub assembly line?

Bob B.

[rcbe]

What does that mean? Are you an inspector on the Cub assembly line?

Bob B.

nope. But, sure hope you ain't an assembler.

[adjusterr]

I hook a good chain to the trailer hole on the rear of my JD mower, chock the front wheels and lift the rear of the mower up until I have easy access. I use a big C-clamp to hold the blades from turning and a long box end wrench to both loosen and tighten the bolts. I pull the bolts as tight as I can and have never had a loosening problem.

[Dr Dave]

I use my engine hoist to raise, impact off and impact on using a torque stick extension. They are a 8' long extension made out of spring steel, available in different torques, made for lugnut, they flex when torque value is reached.

Dave

[Bob_Bainbridge]

It would be interesting to take a survey and see how many people use a torque wrench to tighten blades and how many just tighten them as tight as they can. I DID use a torque wrench on the cylinder heads but apparently MTD did not.

Bob B.

[mark1]

As for me I've never used a torque wrench while putting blades on. The air wrench takes em off and puts em on. In my 55 years of messing with mowers if a air wrench was avail that's what has been used. Now I do have a very good torque wench and even had it's torque checked and calibrated years ago. I use it on things like heads and manifolds etc.but never blades. I've had friends get hurt trying to use a torque wrench on blades when the block they used to hold the blades slipped. etc.