Snow Attachments Snow: Rear Blade vs Hydraulic Front Blade

[bp fick]

Just to keep it short, stopped by TSC in Gaylord this week. Bought a 5' rear blade that lists on the website for $319. Manager quoted me $259 and I had a coupon in my pocket for another $5 off. For $255, I couldn't go wrong. I have some plans for pulling gravel and other duties this summer, but I thought, "Why not?" We got a skiff of snow on Tuesday, so I took it out to back blade off the drive. OK, it works, sort of.

But when you are used to a full hydraulic front blade, all I can say is: It does not compare. Details available, but without listing all the differences and the faults of a back blade, all I'd recommend to someone who thinks they are going to manage a snowy winter with simply a back blade, I'd have to advise them to re-think the plan.

[jdgreg]

Ditto! I used a BB and FEL for many years to do snow removal. The BB worked, but was tedious at times. Then I got my JD, and later a front blade with power angle. I'll put the differences this way, the back blade has not even been on the JD in the last 3+ years that I've had the power front blade. Matter of fact, I should sell it this summer and use that to help finance a rear blower.

[RoyJackson]

Well, you gents are entitled to your opinion, but back blades work quite well as a multi-functional tool.
Now, if you have other tasks (besides pushing snow) in which you can use a front blade, then it's a worthy, albeit expensive, addition to the implement stable.

[bp fick]

Hey Roy, yeah. I got the back blade for other future tasks.

But I gotta tell ya, having plowed all winter with a front blade, that rear blade just doesn't "get it". Tedious was the word, indeed.
As a trailing unit, with a FEL in front, which is most typical here at TBN, I think, it's the FEL that allows directional, forward looking operation.

But only a BB? Nah.

Yup, the front blade is pricey, but for lots of plowing? Pretty darn hard to beat. Got spoiled, I guess.

[arrow]

An advantage of the back blade is that I can move snow backwards and forward with a fel/RB combo. I think part of the problem is the height of the moldboard on a RB, Most are 12-14". I find they really need to be 18-19" to move snow. Another advantage is that on most, you can get or make side plates for the blade and have it act as a mini pusher which can really move some snow. One of the best for the money back in the 80's and 90's was the 45 blade from John deere. Don't know why they do not produce this any more. With the above variables considered,I wouldn't be so quick to discount the rear blade

[daveinnh]

jdgreg:

Having a Kubota L4310 with a Fasse loader valve for an ATI grapple, I'm guessing that you use that circuit to turn the blade?

Do you have a std. (Fisher-Curtis-etc) 7' truck blade in a quik-tach like skid steer loader mount?

I still like "loading" snow though. It's been cold and windy but not much snowfall this winter in central NH.

[jdgreg]

jdgreg:

Having a Kubota L4310 with a Fasse loader valve for an ATI grapple, I'm guessing that you use that circuit to turn the blade?

Do you have a std. (Fisher-Curtis-etc) 7' truck blade in a quik-tach like skid steer loader mount?

I still like "loading" snow though. It's been cold and windy but not much snowfall this winter in central NH.

Yes, Fasse valve set up with QD on the tube between the loader arms at the font. I love it!!

I have a JD 6' (IIRC) blade, it's the JD QD style, so I can change between the blade and bucket in minutes.

Seriously, this thing is the cats meow. I can push snow up into a mound higher than I can with the bucket. The bucket does come in handy if I need to move the mounds.

I can post some pics for you if you'd like.

[Diamondpilot]

I agree 100% I used my FEL and 6' or 7' BB for 5 years. This year I broke down and bought a Meyer snow plow and adapted it to my FEL arms. WOW! I can now do in 20 minutes what used to take me a hour. I still use a combo of both and many times both at the same time. The snow plow does 90% of the work but the 7' Woods BB still comes in handy and makes good ballast.

Chris

[MMagis]

The fact is that no one implement is the perfect fit for everyone. I could make the argument that a blower is far superior to a front blade, but I know that just because it works well for me, it’s not perfect for everyone. I use a rear blower and a rear blade. A front blade would serve no purpose to me other than seeing how many parts I can break in a season.

[AlbertaDan]

Just to keep it short, stopped by TSC in Gaylord this week. Bought a 5' rear blade that lists on the website for $319. Manager quoted me $259 and I had a coupon in my pocket for another $5 off. For $255, I couldn't go wrong. I have some plans for pulling gravel and other duties this summer, but I thought, "Why not?" We got a skiff of snow on Tuesday, so I took it out to back blade off the drive. OK, it works, sort of.

But when you are used to a full hydraulic front blade, all I can say is: It does not compare. Details available, but without listing all the differences and the faults of a back blade, all I'd recommend to someone who thinks they are going to manage a snowy winter with simply a back blade, I'd have to advise them to re-think the plan.

I agree. In Newfoundland I havea 2360 with both hydraulic angle front blade. Most of the time the blower stays in the garage. Even with turf tires on, the only time i have had a problem was when the snow was higher than the blade. On our paved driveway i can get the snow off right down to bare with the single pass. Being on the Atalntic coast this the wet heavy snow. Not the light powdery stuff like they would get in the mid west.