Snow Attachments Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project

   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project #11  
I wouldn't give up on that cylinder yet. Have you ever used a vice and sockets to press out U-joints? have you got an air socket big enough? There are a couple techniques that I think can work.

Use some penetrant and some heat. take the fitting off the cylinder and drain it od oil first. Extend the rod out of it to get the seal away fro any heat, also.

You set the press up right it will go, even if you have to use a bit of persuasion........

Good luck.
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I wouldn't give up on that cylinder yet. Have you ever used a vice and sockets to press out U-joints? have you got an air socket big enough? There are a couple techniques that I think can work.

Use some penetrant and some heat. take the fitting off the cylinder and drain it od oil first. Extend the rod out of it to get the seal away fro any heat, also.

You set the press up right it will go, even if you have to use a bit of persuasion........

Good luck.

Dead Horse,

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try the vise and sockets trick. Never done that before, but I know exactly what you mean. This also give me a good excuse to mount that new vise that I got for Christmas last year. Still in the box! I just love these projects that lead to other projects!!

Will update you on how it goes!
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project #13  
While its Nice to go New, it can really up the price and a lot of times the rebuilt older unit can be better than the new one.
I'd drive that bolt out, test for function and re-use. The money saved can buy plow lights...or replace any hoses that look bad
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project #14  
Dead Horse,

Thanks for the tip. I will definitely try the vise and sockets trick. Never done that before, but I know exactly what you mean. This also give me a good excuse to mount that new vise that I got for Christmas last year. Still in the box! I just love these projects that lead to other projects!!

Will update you on how it goes!

I know another technique too........ for more "troublesome" press jobs. Don't give up. Even if you have to take the cylinder to a shop that has a hydraulic press, for the few pennies it wil cost to push that slug out you can save that cylinder and like he said above..... PLOW LIGHTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:D:thumbsup:
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project
  • Thread Starter
#15  
While its Nice to go New, it can really up the price and a lot of times the rebuilt older unit can be better than the new one.
I'd drive that bolt out, test for function and re-use. The money saved can buy plow lights...or replace any hoses that look bad


Yea, I've been looking up prices on new cylinders, moldboards, cutting edges, etc and this project could easily ramp up in $$$. Not my intention, but I definitely want to do a good job and not have to revisit it for at least a couple of years!

I'll definitely test out those old cylinders if I can ever get the hose off! The fitting is on there really good. I'll let it sit overnight with the penetrating oil working its magic!
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project #16  
Nice project. Like already said - keep working at that bolt. Penetrating oil (or the old ATF/acetone blend) for starters. Soak it in real good. Do you have an air hammer? They can be helpful to shake stuff loose. Even a short-barrel one will do some good and they are dirt cheap at Northern, HF, or even HD (like $20). Next up, heat. Also as previously stated, make sure all the oil is out, and put the piston way down at the other end. Maybe even wrap a wet rag around the far end near the piston to keep it cool as the heat could trash the seals. Then - You have 2 ways to attack this: the slow press option and the BFH. Impact can tend to start breaking things loose. The air hammer or a BFH can do that for you (use a bolt or rod or something as a drift with the BFH). You can build up a lot of strain in a press before something rusted pops. Make sure it won't fly out and kill you.

If all else fails, get out the drill. Use oil, go slow, start small and step up in a few steps and you should be able to clean that out. Once you get it at least partly drilled out, you may have more luck pressing it out. Be as precise as you can with that first center punch as that will set the stage for how good the drilling goes...

And don't forget the anti-seize when you put it all back together...
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Ok,

Here is the update on the cylinder. After our Christmas party tonight I decided to return to the shop and see if I could make some progress. I was able to get the Hydraulic line off and drain the fluid. It didn't look bad at all. It was blue in color, but I assume that is the color of the fluid that was used in the truck pump.

Here's a question for all you hydraulic experts out there. How easily should that cylinder slide in and out? This guy is awful stiff! Does that indicate a problem?

In regards to the bolt rusted onto the cylinder . . . I got my vise mounted up and after a few tries quickly realized that it wasn't going to man up to the job. It's a pretty small vice and I actually started bending the jaws!

I have a friend who has a bulldozer repair shop in town. They replace tracks and use some heavy duty equipment there. I'm sure he can get me out of this jam! I'll pay him a visit on Monday!

Now, back to my earlier questions . . . any responses / advice?
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project #18  
Ok,

Here is the update on the cylinder. After our Christmas party tonight I decided to return to the shop and see if I could make some progress. I was able to get the Hydraulic line off and drain the fluid. It didn't look bad at all. It was blue in color, but I assume that is the color of the fluid that was used in the truck pump.

Here's a question for all you hydraulic experts out there. How easily should that cylinder slide in and out? This guy is awful stiff! Does that indicate a problem?

In regards to the bolt rusted onto the cylinder . . . I got my vise mounted up and after a few tries quickly realized that it wasn't going to man up to the job. It's a pretty small vice and I actually started bending the jaws!

I have a friend who has a bulldozer repair shop in town. They replace tracks and use some heavy duty equipment there. I'm sure he can get me out of this jam! I'll pay him a visit on Monday!

Now, back to my earlier questions . . . any responses / advice?

Thomas if you heat the the thinnest side of the base of the cylinder where that bolts is cut off and cool it right away with cold water it will come out easy enough. Just pull the cylinder up about half way before you apply the heat and you'll have no problem getting that bolt out. I reused my angle cylinders when I did mine. Like some other wise member suggested, just cycle the cylinders by hand to get the old fluid out.

Now when it comes to your question about the cylinders. They are very tight to move by hand. Yes you'll be able to do it but it's not that easy to do. I put a bar in the lower hole (when you get the bolt out) and put another bar in the cylinder hole and while putting my feet on the bottom bar I pull up on the top bar and it will move in and out.

With these angle cylinders just make sure there's no pitting on the chrome and that there not bent. If any of these two are present replace the cylinders.
 
   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project
  • Thread Starter
#19  


With these angle cylinders just make sure there's no pitting on the chrome and that there not bent. If any of these two are present replace the cylinders.

Paul.

Not sure how bad the cylinders have to be before they would need replacing. Here are a few pics of the worst one. I was able to cycle the cylinders a couple of times and there doesn't appear to be any seals that are leaking. They were very stiff, but your technique worked like a charm!
 

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   / Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Took some time to gather up all the nuts and bolts I removed during the dis-assemble so that I can make sure I get the correct sizes on the new ones.

As you can see, I only have 1 pivot pin. The other one is seized up in the sleeve on the sector. From what I have been reading, this is a pretty common occurance on these Meyer ST series snow plows. I am going to have these sleeves cut out and new ones put in with grease fittings so that this doesn't happen again.

I found these pics on the web that shows the new sleeves being installed with grease fittings. I will also add grease fittings to the sleeves on the plow.
 

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