Snow Attachments Another FEL Attached Snow Plow Project

[Kubota Tee]

I'm going later this afternoon to pick up a 7.5' Meyer Snow Plow I am buying off of Craig's List that I will be adapting to my Kubota Grand L3540HST tractor. I am also expecting my quick attach plate to arrive later this afternoon after purchasing it earlier this week from ebay. This will be the 3rd QA plate I have purchased from these folks - top notch quality and a great price!

Going into this project I have been researching all the different FEL attached snow plow projects on TBN and I just want to start off by saying a big THANK YOU to all those who have contributed!! I hope I can give back even a small percentage of the knowledge that I gain from all of you.

After doing all my research, I have decided to follow (as close as possible) the FEL Attached Snow Plow project of 4SHORTS. For those of you who have seen his work, you know that it is definitely worth trying to emulate. Not that I will be able to come close to matching his work, but it certainly is a good goal to aim for.

Here is my logic for going with his design:

1. Quick Attach versus Frame Mount - after reading all the different arguments on this topic, I really need the versatility of moving the snow around with the bucket. Plus, I am not really worried about tweeking my FEL arms as I will only be plowing my own driveway / road so all the surroundings are well known. In addition, the plow will have the trip springs.

2. QA Mounting - seems like there are 2 schools of thought here. 1-utilize the existing truck mounts and modify your QA plate to accept them so that the plow can move back and forth between truck and tractor or 2-cut off the portion of the A-Frame with the truck tabs and weld it directly to the QA plate. I will be going with the 2nd option since I don't have a plow truck AND this will allow me to move the plow closer to the FEL arms for reducing the load on the FEL arms.

3. Add ons - well, we will have to see how things go. I have set a budget of $1000 for this project (I donate my time, so only materials and outside services) and I will have about $425 into it from the beginning ($300 for the plow and $125 for the QA plate). I will have to pay someone to do the welding for me and there is still a question mark on if I will use the existing hydraulic cylinders or have to purchase new ones. I'd love to add lights, but we will have to see how things go!

So . . stay tuned and I will do my best to document my version of a FEL Attached Snow Plow.

 

[stratton]

I was thinking of something similar. I am looking forward to seeing pictures.

 

[jake98]

Good luck. I was eyeing up a plow too but can't spring for another project right now. There's a good deal on a Meyers in Sussex NJ, if anybody is looking for one.

 

[4shorts]

Cool! I can't wait to see how it turns out and I'm more than confident it will be second to none. If you have any questions you know where I am. Good luck :thumbsup:

Oh and thank you for your kind words on my work

 

[nybirdman]

Ya good luck with your project,I did mine about two years ago with an 8ft.curtis on my L4240.You are right keeping as short as you can,mine works but is a little long for tight areas.Can't go wrong copying 4 Shorts design.I would advise to use new cylinders,don't want to crap up your system with old fluid.

 

[wedge40]

Cool! I can't wait to see how it turns out and I'm more than confident it will be second to none. If you have any questions you know where I am. Good luck :thumbsup:

Oh and thank you for your kind words on my work

I looked at your thread last year. Any chance you have more detailed photos of how things are welded up. I'm curious how you welded the vertical support for the mounting plate? Front and back.
The easiest thing to do would be make a mount that will accept the original truck mount.

Wedge

 

[4shorts]

I looked at your thread last year. Any chance you have more detailed photos of how things are welded up. I'm curious how you welded the vertical support for the mounting plate? Front and back.
The easiest thing to do would be make a mount that will accept the original truck mount.

Wedge

I went looking through my hard drive and came up with these.

 

[Dead Horse]

Ya good luck with your project,I did mine about two years ago with an 8ft.curtis on my L4240.You are right keeping as short as you can,mine works but is a little long for tight areas.Can't go wrong copying 4 Shorts design.I would advise to use new cylinders,don't want to crap up your system with old fluid.

The solution to that is take the hoses off the cylinders, if the rods are extended, push them in (over a pail) with the oil inlet facing down, ie flush them.

No point in tossing perfectly good cylinders when at worse, the hyd filter will catch anything that might have somehow gotten into the remaining oil.

 

[Kubota Tee]

Hey guys, thanks for all the encouragement on this project. After the dis-assembly work this morning, I really need it! Every nut and bolt fought me the whole way and wow is this thing heavy! I guess I'm just not used to working with this type of equipment other than just hooking it up to my tractor where the tractor is doing all the heavy lifting. Sure does make me appreciate even more all the good work that you guys post on TBN!

The good news with the dis-assembly is that I only had to cut off one bolt, the bad news is that it is the bolt holding the cylinder (see pics). That may just push me to pick up a new pair!

Here are the initial pictures along with a few questions that I have after wrenching on this

Q1: Does anyone know what this extra flange is for on the sector (circled)? Not sure if it was part of the original or if it was added on along the way?

Q2: It looks like I have going to have to rebuild the pivot pin sleeves. I don't think the original had grease fittings - anyone out there every add those to their pivot pins? Pictures would be very helpful!

Q3: The moldboard has a few spots where it is rusted through. I was thinking through the following options and would like to get some advice. 1-repair the existing holes (how?) 2-cut out the moldboard and replace it with another steel one or 3-cut out the moldboard and replace it with a poly moldboard if I can find one to fit this Meyer ST90 model.

Q4: After removing the cutting edge (steel) I discovered it is in fairly decent shape. However I will mostly be plowing my 450' concrete driveway as well as a side drive that is gravel. Should I look at replacing the steel edge with a rubber one? or Poly? What are the major pros and cons of each?

More pics to follow as I continue moving through the rebuild.

 

[Kubota Tee]

Not sure why the pics didn't show up. Let's try again!