Snow Attachments Quick Attach Snow Plow

[jmusser15]

I picked up this quick attach snow plow for my tractor locally for $500. I thought it was a pretty good deal and couldn't pass it up. I would like to modify it just a little to try and shorten the distance between the quick attach plate and plow. I have seen some others on this site but I am open to ideas and suggestions you all might have on how to accomplish this. I would also like to upgrade it to hydraulic angle as well.

 

[beenthere]

It's already for hyd. angle, just add the cylinders. Brackets are there.

For me, I'd shorten it by removing the FEL and attaching it to your front end. But that is me.

Nice find. All that shale must make for some wild trips to the snow blade.

 

[Thohow]

Hi jimusser
I have two questions to ask you:
1) Before you start to modify it to change it over to hydraulic you must need to know what the flow rate of the hydraulic pump on your machine? If your hydraulic pump puts out more that 14 GPM you may have to install a cushion valve or bypass valve on the plow a frame. Because if you don't install the valve when you go to hock up the hydraulic cylinders the psi could be fatal and blow the cylinders.

2) Does you machine have hydraulic aux? What this means on your machine do you have the hydraulic quick disconnect fittings to use hydraulic attachments? If not you can contact your machine local manufacture dealer to find out if your machine has it or look online.

If you need any more answers feel free to write back.
thanks
thohow

 

[Bison]

I think that blade is way to far ahead of the loader,i would cut the whole angle system off and have the blade close up to the quik attach,hinge it one side and use a hydr cyl to angle it

 

[bill ns]

Great deal for 500$ You are ready for a cylinder by the looks of it . I would shorten up that A - frame that the plow pivots on to where the angle of the blade almost touches the quick connect frame . You don't need a lot of angle either . I would also beef up that pivot point it looks like it should have a plate on the bottom where the pin goes through . The way it is now it will probley bend down before the springs even get a chance to work . all in all a interesting project keep us updated .

 

[Thomas]

Great deal for $500 setup.
Do think some kind of rear weight maybe needed..long front reach.

 

[jake98]

Nice find! I'd just use it first, maybe you don't need to modify it..

 

[lhfarm]

I believe that is a Meyer plow like mine and the hydraulic cylinders are available on e-Bay. All the mounting hardware is still there. I used my rear remote to control movement. Here is a thread - http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/189585-slowing-snow-plow-movement.html

I'm looking at a different mounting arrangement to move my blade closer to the front of the tractor too. What I have now does work well. I have the plow "floating" (like the original truck mount) as opposed to the solid mount that you have.

Good luck!

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd shorten that "A Frame" a bit (but you'll need to modify the pivot plate too). However, I would get the hydraulic cylinders (for fitting) first to ensure you don't make it too short.

 

[ray66v]

From what I see, this design lacks the ability to float.

An upgrade would be to hinge the attachment points to the plate. Then, add some sort of stop under the hinges, or a chain hung above the plate, down to the plow, to stop it from just hinging down when you want to pick it up.

Adding some slop to the bolt in the front where the plow rotates will also be helpful, so it can rotate slightly. If the drive has flat areas that quickly change to sloped ones, the plow needs to be able to drop one side, and raise the other, to follow that.

Using it the way it is now, you could end up putting twisting pressures on the FEL. So, don't go at it really hard when using it, until you get some idea what it will do to the machine.