Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx

   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #21  
Looks good Foggy. I'm going to do the same thing on mine so I hope you don't mind me stealing your idea. Thanks for all the great pics, it will help me on my build.

Jeff
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #22  
I did notice that your plows rear mounts are different than mine so I think I can move mine even more rearward(about 18")Really should make a big improvment.

Thanks again, Jeff
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Yup, looks great.

Another important advantage with the rearward mounting is that the entire A-frame is lower than the adaptor frame. this keeps the lower loader arms up higher.
Some of theses I've seen have the plow's A-frame attached to the adaptor frame/plate about even with or higher than the implement carriers of the loader. Since it is critical that the A-frame is level or parallel to the ground to allow the plow to be angled and have the cutting edge make contact with the ground throughout the full angling motion.

With the A-frame mounted higher than the carriers it puts the carriers dangerously close to the ground, as you need to lower them so much to level the A-frame, which could possibly cause them to be damaged by impacts.

So this set up with the rearward mounting has several advantages.

JB

Yep....agreed. Today I put my bucket indicator back on the loader so I can get the proper orientation of the loader (both height and curl). I may put another indicator on the loader to get the proper height set each time....or I have seen those cylinder stops which may prove useful. I beleive I will get about 12" of plow "float" before needing the loader to adjust....or apply down pressure. I'll know more after plowing a bit.
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#24  
This is something I'd like to do in the future. I'm not sure what the hydraulic system setup is. Do you still have the full raise and curl operating on the loader? If so, do you have another hydraulic circuit for the angle cylinders? I was wondering if you need curl adjustment to change the blade tilt on this setup or if you can use the curl connections to angle the blade.

Yes I still hve both height and curl features.....as well as the abiltiy to turn the plow via my third function SCV on the tractor remotes. It is fairly important to get the proper height and curl settings to get the blade to evently contact the ground. But a good operator and a few indicators should work out pretty well. :thumbsup:
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #25  
Foggy-Looks great. You have given me an idea. My blade is a 6' Meyers. I also have an 8' fisher that I have never used. I thought it was too big butI have plenty of people telling me my 3320 can handle it-I have loaded turfs, a 550lb weight block and chains.

Attached is a picture. I'm thinking I will install a rear mount as you have done and for normal snow, it would be easy to switch to the Fisher.

One other point, with this set up, I don't have an ideal set up for maintaining a flat blade with even ground contact. Someone correctly suggested that with the push points lower than the plow frame, chances are better to have good ground contact.

Opinions-biting off more than I can chew with an 8 footer?
 

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   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I did notice that your plows rear mounts are different than mine so I think I can move mine even more rearward(about 18")Really should make a big improvment.

Thanks again, Jeff

Jeff....be carefull about going to far rearward......or you could have an interferance with the plow blade when you turn the blade all the way right or left.

I did consider going further back too.....but I'm glad I limited it to 12" as otherwise you could made for a collision course with the blade and the frame. I think 12" is about the limit. ;)

See the last picture I posted to see the "worst-case" senario of curl and blade positons. Just clears by a 1/2 inch or so.
 
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   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Foggy-Looks great. You have given me an idea. My blade is a 6' Meyers. I also have an 8' fisher that I have never used. I thought it was too big butI have plenty of people telling me my 3320 can handle it-I have loaded turfs, a 550lb weight block and chains.

Attached is a picture. I'm thinking I will install a rear mount as you have done and for normal snow, it would be easy to switch to the Fisher.

One other point, with this set up, I don't have an ideal set up for maintaining a flat blade with even ground contact. Someone correctly suggested that with the push points lower than the plow frame, chances are better to have good ground contact.

Opinions-biting off more than I can chew with an 8 footer?

Honestly.....I have never pushed any snow with my tractor. I have read about folks that have.....and some say a wide blade will push the front end around depending on how you have the angle set. I think you have plenty of power and you likely have pretty good traction.....especially if you put chains on. Tweaking the loader or pushing the front end around would be my biggest fear with the 8 foot blade.

I can give you a better opinon in another month or two. ;)
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #28  
Yep....agreed. Today I put my bucket indicator back on the loader so I can get the proper orientation of the loader (both height and curl). I may put another indicator on the loader to get the proper height set each time....or I have seen those cylinder stops which may prove useful. I beleive I will get about 12" of plow "float" before needing the loader to adjust....or apply down pressure. I'll know more after plowing a bit.

I think the height is going to be more important than the curl for you since you have the chain. but I guess if you were way off on the curl that would change the height setting too? Never seen cylinder stops but that sounds like it would work.

Just had a thought how about some skid shoes on the back of the A-frame.
Member 4Shorts did that I believe, that way there is nothing to think about, just drop the loader and the A-frame would be level. Then you would either float with the loaders feature and the weight of the loader would rest on the A-frame/plow or you would still control the height some how and continue using the chain to provide float.

Foggy-Looks great. You have given me an idea. My blade is a 6' Meyers. I also have an 8' fisher that I have never used. I thought it was too big butI have plenty of people telling me my 3320 can handle it-I have loaded turfs, a 550lb weight block and chains.


Opinions-biting off more than I can chew with an 8 footer?

8 footer for maybe the 4-6" snows, but I would use the 6 footer for those Nor'Easters.

JB
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #29  
Just had a thought how about some skid shoes on the back of the A-frame.
Member 4Shorts did that I believe, that way there is nothing to think about, just drop the loader and the A-frame would be level. Then you would either float with the loaders feature and the weight of the loader would rest on the A-frame/plow or you would still control the height some how and continue using the chain to provide float.

JB

Yep. That's what I did. Here's a few pics.


pad1-1.jpg


pad2-1.jpg


p13.jpg
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#30  
JB4310;2560808 said:
ust had a thought how about some skid shoes on the back of the A-frame.
Member 4Shorts did that I believe, that way there is nothing to think about, just drop the loader and the A-frame would be level. Then you would either float with the loaders feature and the weight of the loader would rest on the A-frame/plow or you would still contJrol the height some how and continue using the chain to provide float.
JB

I have seen those posts by 4Shorts and his pics posted above.....and have considered adding shoes like that. (Very nice build 4Shorts!) I thought I would play....errrrr plow a bit first to see if I need them. I do worry about snagging those shoes on stumps and tree roots and such (its not like I operate on a parking lot).

My intention with this build is to FLOAT THE PLOW rather than float the loader.....but those shoes are a "definite maybe" depending how things work out after some use.

One thing I might add.....I will do some occasional plowing with this rig but it's not like I am a commercial operator......so I hate to invest too much more into it (I already "splurged" going with the hyraulic angling feature). But some type of shoes may be added?

Thanks for good insight and feedback JB. :thumbsup:
 
 
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