71bronco
Gold Member
Looks good Foggy. I'm going to do the same thing on mine so I hope you don't mind me stealing your idea. Thanks for all the great pics, it will help me on my build.
Jeff
Jeff
Yup, looks great.
Another important advantage with the rearward mounting is that the entire A-frame is lower than the adaptor frame. this keeps the lower loader arms up higher.
Some of theses I've seen have the plow's A-frame attached to the adaptor frame/plate about even with or higher than the implement carriers of the loader. Since it is critical that the A-frame is level or parallel to the ground to allow the plow to be angled and have the cutting edge make contact with the ground throughout the full angling motion.
With the A-frame mounted higher than the carriers it puts the carriers dangerously close to the ground, as you need to lower them so much to level the A-frame, which could possibly cause them to be damaged by impacts.
So this set up with the rearward mounting has several advantages.
JB
This is something I'd like to do in the future. I'm not sure what the hydraulic system setup is. Do you still have the full raise and curl operating on the loader? If so, do you have another hydraulic circuit for the angle cylinders? I was wondering if you need curl adjustment to change the blade tilt on this setup or if you can use the curl connections to angle the blade.
I did notice that your plows rear mounts are different than mine so I think I can move mine even more rearward(about 18")Really should make a big improvment.
Thanks again, Jeff
Foggy-Looks great. You have given me an idea. My blade is a 6' Meyers. I also have an 8' fisher that I have never used. I thought it was too big butI have plenty of people telling me my 3320 can handle it-I have loaded turfs, a 550lb weight block and chains.
Attached is a picture. I'm thinking I will install a rear mount as you have done and for normal snow, it would be easy to switch to the Fisher.
One other point, with this set up, I don't have an ideal set up for maintaining a flat blade with even ground contact. Someone correctly suggested that with the push points lower than the plow frame, chances are better to have good ground contact.
Opinions-biting off more than I can chew with an 8 footer?
Yep....agreed. Today I put my bucket indicator back on the loader so I can get the proper orientation of the loader (both height and curl). I may put another indicator on the loader to get the proper height set each time....or I have seen those cylinder stops which may prove useful. I beleive I will get about 12" of plow "float" before needing the loader to adjust....or apply down pressure. I'll know more after plowing a bit.
Foggy-Looks great. You have given me an idea. My blade is a 6' Meyers. I also have an 8' fisher that I have never used. I thought it was too big butI have plenty of people telling me my 3320 can handle it-I have loaded turfs, a 550lb weight block and chains.
Opinions-biting off more than I can chew with an 8 footer?
Just had a thought how about some skid shoes on the back of the A-frame.
Member 4Shorts did that I believe, that way there is nothing to think about, just drop the loader and the A-frame would be level. Then you would either float with the loaders feature and the weight of the loader would rest on the A-frame/plow or you would still control the height some how and continue using the chain to provide float.
JB
JB4310;2560808 said:ust had a thought how about some skid shoes on the back of the A-frame.
Member 4Shorts did that I believe, that way there is nothing to think about, just drop the loader and the A-frame would be level. Then you would either float with the loaders feature and the weight of the loader would rest on the A-frame/plow or you would still contJrol the height some how and continue using the chain to provide float.
JB