Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx

   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #41  
Good post 4shorts. I think a person could debate the merits of floating the plow vs floating the loader....and hard surface vs gravel use.....for a looong time. I struggled with which way to build my FEL plow until thinking it through.

There may be no right answer for everyone or every situation. The logic in my build is to keep the plow as lightweight as practical and use the slit-tube to provide the float. I'm not certain if less weight will scrape less dirt and gravel....but I'd like to believe it's better for my needs than more weight riding on shoes over my rough ground....and that is how these plows were designed to operate.

I think that if I had pavement to plow I would have skid shoes and float the loader as you do....to take advantage of extra weight and down pressure with the loader.

I think it's a basic decision a FEL plow builder has to make. However....if I change my mind after using my set-up......it could easily be converted to make the plow rigid with the frame and then float the loader as you do. Either way....it's still compact with the tractor. ;)

Thanks. I operated heavy equipment for many years before doing what I do now. That blade you see in my original thread was used on my pick up for 13 years and the one gripe I had with it was the fact it had no down pressure and using it there were times it would ride up over the snow because of the stupid chain that was on it. When that would happen the truck would get stuck in the snow.

Now guys will report that my design will work well with your FEL in the float position and they are only partly right. The float will be ok to use straight but use the float while turning and you just won't turn. You'll need to apply just enough down pressure and you'll have full control of the steering of the tractor.

One thing I do like about my system is when I have the four skids on the ground plowing and I decide I want to scrape all I need to do is tilt my blade, bring the rear shoes off the ground a inch or so and the cutting edge does the job. It makes the blade more useful than if it had just the chain.

You are right. Everyone will have there own opinion but I think as time goes on and you use your design you will end removing the pipe, install the four pads ( two front,two rear) and have your plow attached solid so that you'll have down pressure.
Your also right. It's an easy fix to add these items and you might get by just fine as it is. I've got two hundred hours using mine commercially and there's nothing I would change on it. I have used it on some gravel driveways and the skids work very well on that surface as well.
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#42  
^ Yep....and that does bring up a point I forgot to include: Steering. I figured that keeping the plow floating and some weight on the front axle should help ALLOT with steering.

I agree that if the plow rides up you can get a pick-up truck stuck....but there is quite a bit more clearance with a tractor/plow rig....and the ability to lift with the loader should pretty much nullify that point.

I'm not looking forward to snow....but it will be interesting to do a little plowing to see how my blade works out.

Something I do wonder about......on the backside of my plow blade I have some triangular shaped pockets that are meant for skid shoes. I have not seen another plow with these triangular shaped "pockets". Is this a Meyer plow shoe pocket....or did somebody add this set-up?? :confused:

I have considered getting some shoes for the plow blade in order to provide more floatation......just in-case the tube doesn't work as intended. As said earlier.....I do wish I had used a larger diameter tube on the blade edge. I am not so concerned with clearing down to the last inch.....rather providing float over rough ground. :thumbsup:
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #43  
^ Yep....and that does bring up a point I forgot to include: Steering. I figured that keeping the plow floating and some weight on the front axle should help ALLOT with steering.

I agree that if the plow rides up you can get a pick-up truck stuck....but there is quite a bit more clearance with a tractor/plow rig....and the ability to lift with the loader should pretty much nullify that point.

I'm not looking forward to snow....but it will be interesting to do a little plowing to see how my blade works out.

Something I do wonder about......on the backside of my plow blade I have some triangular shaped pockets that are meant for skid shoes. I have not seen another plow with these triangular shaped "pockets". Is this a Meyer plow shoe pocket....or did somebody add this set-up?? :confused:

I have considered getting some shoes for the plow blade in order to provide more floatation......just in-case the tube doesn't work as intended. As said earlier.....I do wish I had used a larger diameter tube on the blade edge. I am not so concerned with clearing down to the last inch.....rather providing float over rough ground. :thumbsup:

I'm sure yours will get you by ok. The only thing you'll always need to watch will be not to put your FEL down to far or it will hit the ground and dig in. I'm not sure about those pockets your referring to. Mine didn't have them but then again I'm using an old Arctic Polly plow. I has to fabricate the brackets to add my rear shoes.

I realize the tractor is much higher than the truck. I just meant it was one of my big peaves with using the chain on the truck.

If yours works well you'll enjoy the snow. I love out plowing. It gets me out of the shop. I get to stay clean, warm and dry while listening to my favorite tunes. Don't get much better than that. :D

All jokes aside you did a very nice job on yours. What works for me may never work for you but it do make good conversation. ;)
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I'm sure yours will get you by ok. The only thing you'll always need to watch will be not to put your FEL down to far or it will hit the ground and dig in. I'm not sure about those pockets your referring to. Mine didn't have them but then again I'm using an old Arctic Polly plow. I has to fabricate the brackets to add my rear shoes.

I realize the tractor is much higher than the truck. I just meant it was one of my big peaves with using the chain on the truck.

If yours works well you'll enjoy the snow. I love out plowing. It gets me out of the shop. I get to stay clean, warm and dry while listening to my favorite tunes. Don't get much better than that. :D

All jokes aside you did a very nice job on yours. What works for me may never work for you but it do make good conversation. ;)

Thanks. Winter is one time when I could wish for a tractor cab. My tractor is located in a pretty remote area. I'll be thinking about you as I pile on my snowmobile suit and helmet, high boots and thick gloves.....then walk 1/4 mile to the shed where I store my tractor. And....I may need to put on my snow-shoes if the snow is too deep. :eek: Winter temps may be from +30 to -30 f. (and I will not show up on those -30 days ;) )

THEN I can plug in the block heater and wait for an hour or more BEFORE I can start the tractor to warm the hydo. :laughing:

Actually......I likely will only plow a few times each year.....and wont plow if its too awfully cold. I will drive over six inch snowfalls.....and those are pretty typical here. After a few snowfalls I try to plow to keep things open and available for a few winter work days. That is the purpose of my plow build.

Good discussion. Plow safe! :thumbsup:
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #45  
Quote ----- Now guys will report that my design will work well with your FEL in the float position and they are only partly right. The float will be ok to use straight but use the float while turning and you just won't turn. You'll need to apply just enough down pressure and you'll have full control of the steering of the tractor.

One thing I do like about my system is when I have the four skids on the ground plowing and I decide I want to scrape all I need to do is tilt my blade, bring the rear shoes off the ground a inch or so and the cutting edge does the job. It makes the blade more useful than if it had just the chain.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

When I designed my plow setup I used the chain and like Foggy moved the mounts back behind the QA plate. When I want to float it I curl the loader and if I want downpressure I can dump the loader untill the frame of the QA bracket pushes down on the plow frame. Best of both worlds. Thats the theory anyway since I just finished the plow and am painting it now. :D:D I'll see how it works in snow and if I need to I can add skids to the back. My driveway is about 220' of concrete with a 30' x 45' turnaround and about 200' of gravel driveway to my outbuilding.

Jeff
 

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   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx #46  
Resurrecting this old thread. I just got a used Western 6'6" plow and will be fabbing up an SSQA mount for it. It's for my son in law's LS. Thanks for all the ideas.

Foggy, how did the plow work for you?
 
   / Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx
  • Thread Starter
#47  
^. Great........but I sold the plow and now spend my winters in AZ. :). Not much to plow here. GRIN. FORE!
 
 
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