I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal

   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal #1  

crazyal

Super Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2003
Messages
7,753
Location
Northern Vermont
Tractor
Kubota, Case, Deere
A couple of months ago I picked up a used Herd 750s spreader. It had been left on it's side with fertilizer still in it for some time. I got it for a pretty good price. My original plan was to patch the holes and use it the way it was. But I ended up rebuilding it from the ground up. I ended up cutting the hopper off and throwing it away and building my own out of 1/8" steel (much thicker than stock). I also replaced the fan and the aluminum base plate for the hopper as they were corroded from the fertilizer (or salt). Since they didn't cost much I bought new shafts going into and out of the gear box along with new seals.
herd1.jpg
I also built a frame out of 1 1/2" 1/8" angle with expanded metal that slide over the top. It'll keep anything too large, like rocks or ice, from getting put into the hopper if mixed into the sand.
herd2.jpg
I think it's a little small for my tractor. If I lower the 3pt all the way down the PTO shaft will hit the draw bar. The draw bar is used to hold the rear of the sub frame up so I'm thinking I'll get a piece of steel that's shorter but otherwise the same dimension as the draw bar so they don't interfere.
herd3.jpg
I still have to install the gate at the bottom of the hopper. I have a piece of stainless I'm going to use for it. I haven't even looked at the auger inside the hopper to see what that will need. I also haven't painted the part for the top yet. I put stainless weld nuts inside the hopper to fasten it to the hopper.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal #2  
Good job... 1/8" wall? That baby will last a long time now!
Make a UTUBE next winter w/ that baby doing the deeds!
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal #3  
Nice work -- that looks great.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal #4  
That's really nice and better than new. I have the smaller version that is basically the same but without the hopper extension. It works well but the paint was terrible from new. The gate at the bottom of mine rusted in place within a month and it's not a very good design. Using stainless and provided a less tight fit would be smart and much better than factory. I need to fix mine that way. I modified the agitator by cutting off the wings in the middle of the shaft. They are not needed except for spreading wet sand and can cause problems otherwise.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal
  • Thread Starter
#6  
That's really nice and better than new. I have the smaller version that is basically the same but without the hopper extension. It works well but the paint was terrible from new. The gate at the bottom of mine rusted in place within a month and it's not a very good design. Using stainless and provided a less tight fit would be smart and much better than factory. I need to fix mine that way. I modified the agitator by cutting off the wings in the middle of the shaft. They are not needed except for spreading wet sand and can cause problems otherwise.

The two wings on the lower part of the of the shaft (below the universal) are worn down so I'm going to replace them. I figure I have an old lawn mower blade I can cut new ones out of. I'm trying to decide if I should replace the shaft and the wings on it or just the wings. It's main use will be for spreading sand but I think I'll leave the middle wings off and if needed add them later.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I haven't had a lot of spare time but I finally redesigned the gate in a way that I like. The problem with the original design is that when the gate is open there's very little to support it or keep it straight. If you pushed on the lever to open or close it you could force it and make it work. With the modifications I've made you can open and close it with one finger now. If anyone with a herd seeder wants me to I can take some pictures.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal #8  
Yes, I'd like to see your fix for the gate. Thank you. As for the wings at the bottom, yes, you need those to keep things flowing. The middle wings are angled like a propeller and help push the sand down. My instructions said to only use the sand agitator with the gate fully open else you might snap the shear bolt on the agitator. Like I said, I took the middle wings off. I spread salt and anti-skid (1/4" clean stone with sharp edges) with the gate half open and it works well. I also made some deflectors to keep the spreading width down for my driveway.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal
  • Thread Starter
#9  
The two pieces of steel that are the lower guides for the gate are 14 gauge steel and are 1"x 3 1/2". The gate is also 3 1/2" so when the gate is open there's not much holding it in place. I remade them out of 1/4" aluminum and added 2". Because the lower hopper plate rotates to adjust left to right where the sand goes the gate doesn't always get pushed straight on to close it. What was happening is the gate would jam.
gate3.jpg
I had some sealed flanged bearings (1/4" ID) that I mounted on the extended ends of the 1/4" aluminum. Now when force is applied to the gate to close it there's no way it can jamb. The more the hopper base plate is rotated the more the bearings guide the gate. I don't think bearings are needed, just a flat edge that keeps the gate in line would work. Also the flange is not needed as the hopper base plate keeps the gate from lifting up.
gate2.jpg
Here's the old and new lower guides. The screws are flat headed so the arm that connects to the gate will not rub. I didn't have the correct length on hand so I either have to cut them down or get shorter ones. I'm using all stainless steel hardware except for the lock nuts. I made sure there was enough room between the heads of the bolts that hold the guides to the hopper base plate and the fan.
gate1.jpg
Here's the old and new gate. I welded a flat headed screw to the gate after using my press to countersink it flush on the top. I also added a brash bushing for the arm.
 
   / I added a new weapon to the winter fighting arsenal
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The two pieces of steel that are the lower guides for the gate are 14 gauge steel and are 1"x 3 1/2". The gate is also 3 1/2" so when the gate is open there's not much holding it in place. I remade them out of 1/4" aluminum and added 2". Because the lower hopper plate rotates to adjust left to right where the sand goes the gate doesn't always get pushed straight on to close it. What was happening is the gate would jam.
View attachment 276344
I had some sealed flanged bearings (1/4" ID) that I mounted on the extended ends of the 1/4" aluminum. Now when force is applied to the gate to close it there's no way it can jam. The more the hopper base plate is rotated the more the bearings guide the gate. I don't think bearings are needed, just a flat edge that keeps the gate in line would work. Also the flange is not needed as the hopper base plate keeps the gate from lifting up.
View attachment 276345
Here's the old and new lower guides. The screws are flat headed so the arm that connects to the gate will not rub. I didn't have the correct length on hand so I either have to cut them down or get shorter ones. I'm using all stainless steel hardware except for the lock nuts. I made sure there was enough room between the heads of the bolts that hold the guides to the hopper base plate and the fan.
View attachment 276347
Here's the old and new gate. I welded a flat headed screw to the gate after using my press to countersink it flush on the top. I also added a brash bushing for the arm.
 
 
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