Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing 5' straight rear blade vs box scrapper?

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that some guys cut a slit in some PVC pipe and slide it over the blade edge.

 

[LD1]

Dont know if you made up your mind on blade choice yet, but I am going to go against the grain and say that the TSC landpride is going to be just fine for your machine. Which, as you already know, is a lighter and smaller scut. Even in dirt, I dont think your tractor will hurt a TSC blade.

OTOH, I dont think I would buy either new. Shop c-list for a used 60" blade. Light duty (but heavier than the KK) blades from a few decades ago can be had for under $100, and have a ton of life left. And even if you do manage to tear it up, (which I doubt), you aint out much money. Your tractor is about the smallest they make, so even a cheap blade should hold up fine short of going top speed with it and catching something solid.

 

[s219]

Yeah, don't go overboard for a 1026R -- I would think the TSC blade is just fine for snow removal.

 

[bigtiller]

Your 1026R is what replaced my 2305. I ran a 5 foot TSC rear blade for years with no problem and it didn't hurt the concrete. Tire chains will mark up the concrete but only if you get stuck and spin the snot out of the tires. I have a cab and wheel weights, they help a lot! I liked the 5 foot blade but I thought the tractor could handle more so I am using a 6 footer and am very satisfied with the way it works with small snow falls. For the larger storms I use the snowblower on the front clearing a path for the rear blade to finish.

If the wind is blowing a lot, I will blow with the wind and blade on the trip back against the wind.

Give some thought to a light duty 6 footer. With it angled, it clears about a 5 foot wide path.

 

[bobm6996]

I have a Mahindra 2615 with a 6ft Bush Hog rear blade. To protect the concrete and pavement I first added snow blade type round pads, which seemed to work pretty good, but could still leave marks at times. Last year I took a recommendation found on this forum and went to TSC and purchased a horse stall mat. It is about 3/4" thick, 4'x6' and cut a strip the length of the mat about 8" wide. I removed the steel cutting blade, marked and drilled holes in the mat to align with the bolts that hold the steel blade on and bolted the rubber strip on allowing it to stick below the blade about 4". Works great, does not leave any marks and the weight of the blade allows it to grip and remove the snow.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I WENT WITH THW TSC BLADE AND MADE SOME WELDING MODIFCATIONS TO BEEF IT UP.
I AM WORKING ON STAINLESS STEEL ADJUSTABLE SKID SHOES THAT CAN BE REMOVED.
I ENJOY WELDING AND AND THE TSC BLADE WAS IN MY TOWN / NO SHIPPING COSTS.
ANY OTHER BRAND COST MORE PLUS SHIPPING RATES WERE EXTRA.

 

[LD1]

Nice modifications:thumbsup: Very professional looking

 

[94BULLITT]

I WENT WITH THW TSC BLADE AND MADE SOME WELDING MODIFCATIONS TO BEEF IT UP.
I AM WORKING ON STAINLESS STEEL ADJUSTABLE SKID SHOES THAT CAN BE REMOVED.
I ENJOY WELDING AND AND THE TSC BLADE WAS IN MY TOWN / NO SHIPPING COSTS.
ANY OTHER BRAND COST MORE PLUS SHIPPING RATES WERE EXTRA.

The blade looks good. You may want to use poly shoes to keep from scratching your driveway.

 

[ruffdog]

Here are the shoes I made for my Rhino blade. I can change the height by switching the washers from top to bottom. To take the shoe off, just pull the pin when the blade is up and the bracket stays on the blade.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

YES!
THAT LOOKS REAL NICE.
I HAD THE SAME IDEA WHEN I DID MY FRONT PLOW. I HAVEN'T QUITE FINISHED IT YET.
FOR MY REAR BLADE I AM WORKING ON A LONG SHOE THAT CAN BE USED FOR LEE=VELING GROUND TOO.
I MAY USE BOTH STYLES WITH SEPERATE MOUNTS???