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  1. #1
    Platinum Member Buckgnarly's Avatar
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    May 2012
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    West topsham VT
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    Kioti DS3510

    Default Stupid Myers plow....

    Every stinking year I hook up the Myers on the Explorer plow truck something electrical is wrong. This year I get no raise, only goes left when raising. Probably the "B" coil, but then the stud on the "C" valve breaks while taking off the "C" coil to test.....so now I'm GUESSING I need a new B coil AND C pump to replace the stupid rusted stud that broke......and this plow is kept in a garage ALL year!

    I've had issues with my 23yr old Fisher cable operated that is stored outdoors, but everyone was fixed in less than 30 min and basic hand tools.

    Anyone else have problems with these stupid units?

  2. #2
    Bronze Member
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    Apr 2011
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    78
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    maryland
    Tractor
    kubota g2460 Kubota L4330

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    I bought mine in 1990, and used it for 12 years on plowing commercially. Two years ago the spring in the bypass valve had rusted in half and the blade wouldnt hold angle. I always store mine inside when not in use.

  3. #3
    Platinum Member Ryan03's Avatar
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    Feb 2006
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    648
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    Chardon Ohio
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    Farmtrac DTC270, Kubota G5200hydro, Honda recon 250, Suzuki King Quad 450 4x4, 2003 2500 DMax/Allison 4x4

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    [QUOTE=Buckgnarly;3066954]Every stinking year I hook up the Myers on the Explorer plow truck something electrical is wrong. This year I get no raise, only goes left when raising. Probably the "B" coil, but then the stud on the "C" valve breaks while taking off the "C" coil to test.....so now I'm GUESSING I need a new B coil AND C pump to replace the stupid rusted stud that broke......and this plow is kept in a garage ALL year!

    I've had issues with my 23yr old Fisher cable operated that is stored outdoors, but everyone was fixed in less than 30 min and basic hand tools.

    Anyone else have problems with these stupid units?[/

    Left angle is the default function for a meyer E47 pump when the motor is energized and no valves are activated. Right angle is had by activating the motor and C coil simultaniosly {green wire}. Raise is had by activating the B coil and the motor simaltaniously {red wire}. Lower/Float is had by activating the A coil on the back of the pump{black wire}. In my experience, if the plow only goes left, and not up or right, 80% of the time it is a control or harness issue. Another tip..... Take a screwdriver and touch the top stud on the valve [the one that broke off], while a helper tries to lift/angle plow. If the coil is working correctly, you should feel the B coil magnetize on right angle, and the C coil magnetize on raise. If no magnetism, check for power to the coils when angling or raising. If you have power and no magnetism, then it is time to deal with the evil top studs.

  4. #4
    Super Star Member LD1's Avatar
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    Apr 2008
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    10,103
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    Central Ohio
    Tractor
    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    You got some spot-on advice from ryan.

    ANd to answer the question, I think everyone that has plowed for more than one season, has had some sort of electrical gremlin. And its not just meyer. Its ALL of them.

    THats what you get on equipment that is only used a few times a year, and stored the rest. And when it is being used, it is out in the harshest of elements.

    That said, I still like meyer cause they are VERY easy to work on and trouble shoot. And parts are pleantiful.

    I will mention that it is rare for the coil itself to be the problem. Not saying they dont go bad, but most of the time its not the problem. The coils are fed power by ONE wire carrying 12v. It relys on ground through the stud and nut (that you broke on the C coil). IE, if you take the coil off, but leave it plugged in it wont work if you are trying to test it unless you ground the case of the coil.

    So troubleshooting your issue, the B-valve isnt working. That we know. But wether the coil is bad will take further diagnosing. First, make sure you are getting 12v to the wire feeding THAT coil. If you got that, then check it for magnetism my ground it GOOD. Either cleaning up around the nut and stud and put it back on, or by touching the case of the coil to ground somewhere. (I like the negative motor stud for this) If you get magnetism, the coil is fine. Either you didnt have a good ground when it was on the valve, or the valve is stuck.
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


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  5. #5
    Platinum Member Buckgnarly's Avatar
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    West topsham VT
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    Kioti DS3510

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    I should have updated.......I rewired the coil harness, more specifically made new individual connectors for each of the three wires, and also had to tack weld the coil back on. All works now.....I guess it comes down to electrical vs mechanical "gremlins". I have simply had better luck with the mechanical system of my Fisher than the electrical of the Myers......for now!

  6. #6
    Platinum Member Ryan03's Avatar
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    Farmtrac DTC270, Kubota G5200hydro, Honda recon 250, Suzuki King Quad 450 4x4, 2003 2500 DMax/Allison 4x4

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    Quote Originally Posted by Buckgnarly View Post
    I should have updated.......I rewired the coil harness, more specifically made new individual connectors for each of the three wires, and also had to tack weld the coil back on. All works now.....I guess it comes down to electrical vs mechanical "gremlins". I have simply had better luck with the mechanical system of my Fisher than the electrical of the Myers......for now!
    Glad to hear you got it back up and running. Check out Fluid Film. Most snow plow dealers sell it. It is a wool based lubricant/corrosion inhibitor. Around here it is around 10 bucks for an aerosol can, but IMO worth every penny. I spray all my wiring and hard lines on my truck down once every fall with it. It keeps the moisture and corrosion out. Dielectric grease packed in wiring connectors also goes along way to minimize problems down the road, both on plow and truck wiring, bulb sockets, etc.

  7. #7
    Gold Member
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    Feb 2011
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    497
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    Parish NY
    Tractor
    555DTC Farmall 200

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    I have drilled and tapped a hole in the broken stud on the valve and it held well. Never seize 2 or 3 times a year is your friend on those.

  8. #8
    Platinum Member Buckgnarly's Avatar
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    Kioti DS3510

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    Quote Originally Posted by Clint S View Post
    I have drilled and tapped a hole in the broken stud on the valve and it held well. Never seize 2 or 3 times a year is your friend on those.
    I thought about that approach, but had no idea how thick that top was. Good o know for future refrence though.

  9. #9
    Elite Member
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    North of Mtl,Que,Can (Ste Adele)
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    MT180D

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    Yeah, stupid Meyers.
    Lots of my clients had short twisty drives that called for lots of blade lifting and turning.
    Of course I always tried to push snow into holes or lift the blade so stack so as to have space for later.
    More than once I stalled and got caught with no juice in the battery and had to walk home.
    I solved my problem with a 8 ft Fisher mounted on a 4 x 4 GMC with a 6.2 diesel with manual tranny.
    That was a work horse!

    But then the Meyers cost me $300 and it was mounted on a $1200.Jeep quadratrack wagon.
    I also had my share of wiring woes but then aircraft wiring was my basic trade so that part was easy.
    If one wheel spun none others got traction, mind you I could not complain as 3 yrs later I sold the rig for $3000.

    Come to think of it, the GMC was $3000 at auction and the Fisher set me back $1200.
    Sold that rig 8 yrs later for $3500.

  10. #10
    Super Star Member LD1's Avatar
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    Central Ohio
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    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Stupid Myers plow....

    Quote Originally Posted by PILOON View Post
    More than once I stalled and got caught with no juice in the battery and had to walk home.
    I solved my problem with a 8 ft Fisher mounted on a 4 x 4 GMC with a 6.2 diesel with manual tranny.
    That was a work horse!

    .
    They ALL suck a battery down quick if you do alot of lifting and angling. Unless you have a aux. belt driven pump powering the rig. Fortunatally, the only time I ever killed my battery in my plow rig was when I left it in float after I was done plowing. Left the A-coil energized and I had the plow controls wired to 12v hot-at-all-times. It wasnt until 3 or 4 days later when I needed the truck again. And yep, dead. On my new rig, I tied the controls to hot-in-run-only power. So it wont happen again

    Quote Originally Posted by Buckgnarly View Post
    I should have updated.......I rewired the coil harness, more specifically made new individual connectors for each of the three wires, and also had to tack weld the coil back on. All works now.....I guess it comes down to electrical vs mechanical "gremlins". I have simply had better luck with the mechanical system of my Fisher than the electrical of the Myers......for now!
    So does that mean it works now? What was the issue you think? A new C-solenoid WITH coil is only $78
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


    Ford 5500 Backhoe
    Kubota L3400GST W/LA463 FEL
    2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 Diesel
    8N Rebuilt and restored
    Bushhog 306
    3 Homemade wood hauling trailers
    Dolmar 6400 84cc ported
    Sachs-Dolmar 120SI Ported
    (4) Sachs-Dolmar 116SI Ported
    Dolmar PS540
    Sachs-Dolmar 115i
    Sachs-Dolmar 117
    Sachs-Dolmar 112

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