Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing 8 foot fisher plow for 5045E

[vtsnowedin]

Thanks for the heads up.

[LD1]

I dont know for sure what you need, others have been down that road so I sure others can help.

But here is a start https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...sover%20relief

In the mean time, BE CAREFUL.

You said the plow was 9'10" wide. That puts each edge 59" away from the center pivot.

Not sure how far the cylinder mounts are, but I'd say no more than about 12" from center.

That gives a 5:1 mechanical advantage of the plow acting upon the cylinder.

(think about how a little bottle jack works)

Now assuming you have 2" cylinders the "area" of the piston is 3.14 square inches. So figuring in reverse, if you apply 15,700lbs of force to that cylinder, you have just pressurized it AND the lines to 5000psi.

Now 15,700psi sounds like alot, but remember the mechanical advantage. of 5:1.

You only need to apply about 3000lbs of push force on that plow edge and now your cylinder and lines have 5000psi on them. ( and are probabally only rated for 2500). And I am sure your tractor is quite capable of pushing with more force than that. Especially with chains and 4wd

And lets not even talk about moving at any rate of speed and catching something.

[vtsnowedin]

When I'm plowing I have the plow angled all the way to the stop so catching anything on the right edge isn't going to collapse that piston any tighter. Catching something on the left edge with that piston fully extended and the valve closed so it is isolated from the relief valve would not be a good thing, as you say, but if I did it would just blow the seals in the piston and trash it. Until I get a few more storms under my belt and a few more paying customers checks in hand I'll have to wait on adding anymore dollars to this project. Hopefully it will snow enough this winter to buy both the crossover valve and hoses and a cutting edge. If I read it right I need a valve that opens when either side gets above the 3100 psi output of my loader lines. Any lower and it would get confused every time you opened the third function valve to angle the plow.

[jimmysisson]

I guess there must be a system relief valve in my rear remotes then. I run my angle cyls off the remote. Haven't noticed any relief sounding, but I might not with all the other noise.
43 hp 4wd Ag tires, no chains unless really icy, 8' Fisher mounted the way yours is. Without paint...
Jim

[vtsnowedin]

I guess there must be a system relief valve in my rear remotes then. I run my angle cyls off the remote. Haven't noticed any relief sounding, but I might not with all the other noise.
43 hp 4wd Ag tires, no chains unless really icy, 8' Fisher mounted the way yours is. Without paint...
Jim

I can hear the relief whining when ever I take a piston all the way to it's end but that is when the valve is open. With my hand off the lever and it centered there isn't any path I know of for excess pressure in the piston caused by the plow pushing back on it to trip the relief and go back to a return line. That is the point of the crossover relief valves they talk about. You only need it if you hit something hard with the forward edge of the plow but they could save a lot of piston damage and let the plow angle back and reduce damage there as well.

[avc8130]

If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:

1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.

Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.

[camshawn]

I would put on a cutting edge, even if it is only a sacrificial piece of 1/4 x 2 mild steel flat bar. That is what I have used for my snowplow, bolted on with countersunk 1/4 20 bolts and nylock nuts. I flip it over or replace it every 3 yrs or so as needed. The 1/4 20 bolts will snap easily when it is time to renew the edge. The bottom of the plow is like new still, 3 rd cutting edge in 16 years plowing our gravel drive.
Cam

[vtsnowedin]

If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:

1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.

Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.

I'm still experimenting with what works best with this set up. The wings jut forward like a cupped hand and if I straighten it out too much won't dump out snow. I might pull the pins and take off the right one and try it that way when winging back. I need more snow for practice. Just yesterday while cleaning up a two inch flurry I found I could just use the bucket tilt to raise the plow for backing up and not have to reset the loader arms for each pass.

[vtsnowedin]

I would put on a cutting edge, even if it is only a sacrificial piece of 1/4 x 2 mild steel flat bar. That is what I have used for my snowplow, bolted on with countersunk 1/4 20 bolts and nylock nuts. I flip it over or replace it every 3 yrs or so as needed. The 1/4 20 bolts will snap easily when it is time to renew the edge. The bottom of the plow is like new still, 3 rd cutting edge in 16 years plowing our gravel drive.
Cam

Oh it won't be long before it sports a new edge. Next check from paying customer will probably go right down to the plow dealership.

[LD1]

If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:

1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.

Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.

I agree with #1 but not with #2

Ground pressure is the same no matter what the position of the plow is in. The plow floats. the plow weighs x lbs and has a cutting edge with dimensions y by z. No matter how you angle the plow, it still has the SAME dimensions and SAME weight.

And for whatever reason, I actually find that it scrapes cleaner when angling. I think it has to do with the fact that since the force trying to "trip" the springs isnt in a direct line, it actually takes MORE force to trip, thus cutting cleaner.

And ditto about the wings, unless you are fully angled or near fully angled, that wing holds soo much snow in front of the plow, you end up spilling snow off the wrong side of the plow.