Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing 8 foot fisher plow for 5045E

[LD1]

If you are using your plow full angle left/right you aren't using it most efficiently. Plows do their best work when used as close to straight as practical. 2 reasons:

1. The path cleared is the widest possible.
2. A cutting edge perpendicular to the direction of travel "cuts" best. It will clear to the base material best as it is the highest ground pressure in this position.

Limiting yourself to using the plow at full angle only because you are worried about a lack of a crossover doesn't sound like a good solution to me.

I agree with #1 but not with #2

Ground pressure is the same no matter what the position of the plow is in. The plow floats. the plow weighs x lbs and has a cutting edge with dimensions y by z. No matter how you angle the plow, it still has the SAME dimensions and SAME weight.

And for whatever reason, I actually find that it scrapes cleaner when angling. I think it has to do with the fact that since the force trying to "trip" the springs isnt in a direct line, it actually takes MORE force to trip, thus cutting cleaner.

And ditto about the wings, unless you are fully angled or near fully angled, that wing holds soo much snow in front of the plow, you end up spilling snow off the wrong side of the plow.

 

[avc8130]

I agree with #1 but not with #2

Ground pressure is the same no matter what the position of the plow is in. The plow floats. the plow weighs x lbs and has a cutting edge with dimensions y by z. No matter how you angle the plow, it still has the SAME dimensions and SAME weight.

And for whatever reason, I actually find that it scrapes cleaner when angling. I think it has to do with the fact that since the force trying to "trip" the springs isnt in a direct line, it actually takes MORE force to trip, thus cutting cleaner.

And ditto about the wings, unless you are fully angled or near fully angled, that wing holds soo much snow in front of the plow, you end up spilling snow off the wrong side of the plow.

While you are correct, you can't change weight and "dimensions", you are over looking one function: "angle of attack".

There is a built in angle that the cutting edge intersects with the ground when straight. This is adjustable on most modern plows by adjusting the mounting height of the A frame to the head gear at the lower pivots. Since the plow angle pivot is located in front of these pivots, the geometry gets a bit complicated. However, think of it this way:

When you have the plow angled all the way to the left and you raise the plow to the stops, the right side of the plow will be waiving up in the air and the left side will just about drag on the ground. A properly setup plow will have both corners touch the ground at the same time when the plow is lowered on level ground.

However, it isn't often that we plow on level ground. We are generally going up and down hills so the ground pressure along the cutting edge WILL vary if the plow is angled.

Generally speaking the best scrape comes with the blade straight with the steepest angle of attack, provided it doesn't trip.

ac

 

[npalen]

Has anyone tried mounting a plow UNDER the FEL? It seems to me also that the plow out in FRONT of the FEL puts a lot of leverage against the tractor and creates a very long rig. I'm sure there are reasons why the plow is better mounted out front so just curious.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Has anyone tried mounting a plow UNDER the FEL? It seems to me also that the plow out in FRONT of the FEL puts a lot of leverage against the tractor and creates a very long rig. I'm sure there are reasons why the plow is better mounted out front so just curious.

You can only go back so far before the end of the plow hits a front tire. There are several threads where the pivot point of the plow frame was set back a foot or so behind the ends of the loader arms to get it as close as possible. They are not as simple as going forward from the loader arms and have to be well designed and built to be as strong .
I think I could shorten the setup in this picture by a foot by moving the hing pins on the push plate back through a hole cut in the push plate so that the ends of the angle cylinders were flush with the push plate.

 

[LD1]

While you are correct, you can't change weight and "dimensions", you are over looking one function: "angle of attack".

There is a built in angle that the cutting edge intersects with the ground when straight. This is adjustable on most modern plows by adjusting the mounting height of the A frame to the head gear at the lower pivots. Since the plow angle pivot is located in front of these pivots, the geometry gets a bit complicated. However, think of it this way:

When you have the plow angled all the way to the left and you raise the plow to the stops, the right side of the plow will be waiving up in the air and the left side will just about drag on the ground. A properly setup plow will have both corners touch the ground at the same time when the plow is lowered on level ground.

However, it isn't often that we plow on level ground. We are generally going up and down hills so the ground pressure along the cutting edge WILL vary if the plow is angled.

Generally speaking the best scrape comes with the blade straight with the steepest angle of attack, provided it doesn't trip.

ac

Well, I live in ohio and things are mostly flat. Not to mention that I do 99% FLAT parking lots. You are correct that hills make things different. But if you are in a FLAT area, and set your plow up so that the a-frame is LEVEL when the plow is on the ground, angled just seems to work better in my experience.

 

[tomf]

I just happen to be mounting a 7 foot Western snow plow to my B2400 loader arms. Originally I had the plow mounted just in front of the loader arms. Now I'm moving it back about 14 inches. With the plow mounted just in front, I plowed a very light snow. It worked well. Because I have a fairly small tractor, I decided that to move the attachment point back in anticipation of heavier snows which would put greater lateral forces on the loader arms. Also I figured I could always mount it in front if it did not work in the moved back position.

Note that I have a cushion valve installed for additional protection.

One thing to consider is moving the attachment point back too far will cause the plow to hit the loader arm when the plow is angled.

Attached are photos showing my original configuration and the work-in-progress moving the attachment point back 14 inches.

 

[dstig1]

VT - Crossover cushion valves are pretty cheap - ~$60 or so from Surplus Ctr (the link LD1 posted earlier). You need a couple extra hoses and fittings, too, but you should be no more than $100 or so into it, and you will need it eventually to be safe and not damage your equipment, so you might as well get it sooner rather than later... IMO

I am becoming more sold on the floating plow version as shown here and in a couple others threads compared to the rigid version where you need to float the FEL or manually adjust it.... Next version will probably go that route...

 

[vtsnowedin]

VT - Crossover cushion valves are pretty cheap - ~$60 or so from Surplus Ctr (the link LD1 posted earlier). You need a couple extra hoses and fittings, too, but you should be no more than $100 or so into it, and you will need it eventually to be safe and not damage your equipment, so you might as well get it sooner rather than later... IMO

I am becoming more sold on the floating plow version as shown here and in a couple others threads compared to the rigid version where you need to float the FEL or manually adjust it.... Next version will probably go that route...

Well Fisher and the other makers have been making them that way for decades so it is probably hard to best their designs. I will be adding a cushion valve before next winter but sugaring is coming right up fast so it will have to wait for now.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I installed a new cutting edge today purchased with the obsene profits from the last couple of storms. :laughing:I called Luckey's trailer sales in So Ro tuesday, they were out of stock but could have it by today (Friday) which they did. That old plow is mighty tender along the top edge of the blade. Got a couple of holes that need patching but what can you expect for $650.? Six to ten inches predicted here over the weekend. I think I'm ready.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Just bumping this thread up so a member can find it easy. I'm about to park the plow for the summer and take the chains off the back but there is another 3 to 5 inches of "wintery mix in the forecast so better wait a bit.