The bigger blowers usually have a larger gear box, which should be sized at least as large as the avail HP. Hard for a little tractor to tear up a big one, but easy for a big tractor to tear up a little one. Most of these gear boxes are just standard off the shelf stuff, used on blowers and bush hogs/etc. They are designed for standard jumps in HP, say 30, 60, 100. Same with the PTO shaft.. Bigger rating is always better. You should shoot for at least 2-3 inches wider than your tire track, if not 4-6". You can add width with wings if you have too, but if you are buying new the next bigger size is usually a good long term investment. I run mine just outside of my right tire, and sticking out on the left. This helps with the PTO shaft alignment [PTO's usually are offset just to the left of center looking at the rear of the tractor]. Plus gives me lots of clearance on the left [between tire and mailbox/etc.], which is my usual cutting edge whilst blowing. Also depends on how tight you set your side to side stabilizers. You can have a lot of side to side slop if you don't have them or they are setup too loose.
I still don't see the facination with a pull type, other than being able to blow forward. I have a big heavy CUT, and don't see how it could work trying to drive thru heavy snow pulling one. And the bank cutting thing, you'd be adding to the packing of the bank by driving over it. Most larger cuts are not that uncomfortable sitting side sadle going backwards. And you don't have to stare at it 24/7, much more than running a backblade/etc. I sit looking over my right shoulder, left hand on steering knob, right avail to raise/lower or rotate chute. You can do some creative remodeling of things that are in your way to be comforatable. And the cab thing, there are lots of shinny N.H. and Case cab'd tractors around here. Most of the duct taped cab repairs I have seen are the back left top corner... Northern Michigan hardwood forests are hard on cabs...