Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow Plow Cutting edge thoughts

[blueone]

Thinking of some different ways 2 modify my FEL plow edge for Snows with unfrozen gravel and shale driveway.

Wheels looks good on TV but not practical here, to many elevation changes, they would be a fulcrum point and shoes just dig in the shale and stone over the 3/4 mile trek out and back.

So here are some early ideas.

Thoughts Please.

 

[s219]

Many people put a piece of slit pipe over the cutting edge. I tried with PVC, and it does a good job of keeping the gravel from getting dug up. However, PVC wears out quick, so I was going to try a steel or iron pipe next.

To keep things simple, I may use three short sections of pipe, maybe about 8" long each, putting one on each end and one in the middle. That would be a lot easier to slit using my cutoff wheel than trying to slit a whole long 72" piece of pipe (you'd really need to do that with a plasma cutter and jig).

If I could, I'd like to be able to easily remove or flip up any edge guides -- I like using the real cutting edge when doing the concrete parking area near my garage.

I like the idea in your first sketch, which should work OK and may offer some adjustability for height.

 

[blueone]

With the FEL mounted Plow there is alot of flexibility, but this has been one of those years that when it snows, it has also thawed before.

I also want flexibility, that was the second idea even though it's the first sketch. I plow may different drives to help family get out, paved, shale, stone on the trek out and back (6 in fact).

A full length SCH 80 pipe in place of the shoes might be the best with the setup I have. Tilt down to cut ice and hard pack, tilt up to push heavy snow fall.

 

[plowking]

We have a problem with our highway trucks digging into gravel roads. We reversed the edge on one 9 foot fisher plow so it is almost fully tripped and welded stops on the springs. It plows better with the reverse angle and doesn't dig in. plowking

 

[wolfpack2]

I originally tried to bolt a pipe in place of my skid shoes, but the blade would trip way to easily with the pip attached due to the geometry of the trip pivot and the added resistance of the pipe. When I locked out the trip function, any snow that went under the cutting edge would just roll over the top of the pipe. I ended up just bolting the pipe to the back of the cutting edge and it has worked great. It will still move some of the loose stone, but no where near as much as without it. I can also plow the lawn without and damage. Now I need to replace the original 1/8 wall pipe that is worn out with the new 3/8 wall DOM tubing that was delivered this week (all 100 lbs of it).

 

[Jerry/MT]

Do search of the archives here. I've posted a picture of a device I designed and built in 1989 that I still use to deal with blading snow on gravel.

 

[Ford850]

Your first sketch is exactly what I planned to do a few years ago. I still might try it someday. But I ended up with much larger shoes instead, and they work great. See my attached pictures, and see this thread for explanations and other good ideas too. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/293784-how-do-i-keep-gravel-4.html
The 10" shoe provides 3 times the surface area of the original 6" shoe.