Snow removal tractor setup questions.

[Ugarte]

I'll be buying a new tractor before the snow flies primarily for snow removal use--probably Kubota B2601 or L2501. Loader bucket on front; 3pt pto snowblower on rear; front mount blower too complicated and too expensive, imho. I'll be blowing the snow from from about 100 feet of crushed stone driveway--like coarse sand--and from paths across frozen mown fields to various outbuildings. We experienced Maine's coldest and third snowy-est winter on record this last year and I had to wade across a six foot drift all winter because my trusty walk behind blower just couldn't keep up--never again. So, questions:
1. Is 20 pto hp enough for 64" 3pt snowblower? Is 20 enough for a 51" blower? (Kubota L2501 or B2601.)
2. Will a 3pt blower power through frozen, crusty, week-old snow? (As a walk-behind decidedly will not.)
3. R4's without chains or turf with chains?
4. Engine block heater required? Coolant heater required? Any other starting or running cold weather equipment required? (Winter in coastal Maine. Lows to -10F. Third snowiest winter on record last year; snowstorm twice a week for two months.)
5. How stable is a 4X4 tractor, FEL on front/blower on back, backing through 2 feet of snow across gently sloping frozen fields? (Planted solid or Nantucket sleighride?)
6. Kubota snowblower or third party? (Can I do better cost-per-value by not buying the SB with the tractor?)
7. Any other advice appreciated, thanks.

 

[leonz]

I'll be buying a new tractor before the snow flies primarily for snow removal use--probably Kubota B2601 or L2501. Loader bucket on front; 3pt pto snowblower on rear; front mount blower too complicated and too expensive, imho. I'll be blowing the snow from from about 100 feet of crushed stone driveway--like coarse sand--and from paths across frozen mown fields to various outbuildings. We experienced Maine's coldest and third snowy-est winter on record this last year and I had to wade across a six foot drift all winter because my trusty walk behind blower just couldn't keep up--never again. So, questions:
1. Is 20 pto hp enough for 64" 3pt snowblower? Is 20 enough for a 51" blower? (Kubota L2501 or B2601.)
2. Will a 3pt blower power through frozen, crusty, week-old snow? (As a walk-behind decidedly will not.)
3. R4's without chains or turf with chains?
4. Engine block heater required? Coolant heater required? Any other starting or running cold weather equipment required? (Winter in coastal Maine. Lows to -10F. Third snowiest winter on record last year; snowstorm twice a week for two months.)
5. How stable is a 4X4 tractor, FEL on front/blower on back, backing through 2 feet of snow across gently sloping frozen fields? (Planted solid or Nantucket sleighride?)
6. Kubota snowblower or third party? (Can I do better cost-per-value by not buying the SB with the tractor?)
7. Any other advice appreciated, thanks.

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1. It all depends on your wallet, what your time is worth, and how much time you have.
a. many of the members have wider snow casters with smaller mules and
do not worry about how much time it takes as they can take half cuts
after opening the first pass.
b. you need at least 2 sets of rear remotes for hydraulic chute and spout control-
you will be glad you bought those options.

2. Yes it will; Saying that the new Yamaha track drive snowblowers are also
a kick *** walk behind snow caster with glowing reviews. They will cut
through packed snow and their weight will prevent them from riding up
on the snow pack. You would have to cross the border to buy one in
Ontario Province and bring it back to Maine.

3. Loaded rear turf tires with Windshield washer fluid for ballast as it costs less,
you can fill the rears yourself with a fill valve from Gemplers.
a. 2 link V bar chains-2 link means the cross chains are separated two links apart
b. chain tensioners.
c. Snow Chains have to be installed properly otherwise you are in big trouble and screwed big time when you throw
a chain.

4. yes an engine block heater is a good idea even with the mule parked inside. A salamander is also a plus as
it will heat the ENTIRE tractor up quickly as you will have cold hydraulic and transmission oil to deal with otherwise
a. The coolant heater and the salamander are all you need- if you have a space heater great you have the problem licked.
Your going to want a salamander if you fo not own one to melt the ice and snow to prevent issues of stuck impellers-
using it before you start or after you finish clearing.
b. purchase a Racor diesel fuel filter system for the mule as the Kubota filters plug up and freeze and its another case of
being behind the 8 ball when it dies on you and you have to change the filters where your mule stops. The Salamander
will not prevent the cheap filters from freezing on you.
c. you will need to use diesel fuel treatment for the fresh fuel. A water separator filter from racor is also a good investment
as both the plastic and metal fuel cans are moisture magnets.

5. very stable, you need to put weight in the bucket(sand or solid concrete blocks) for more ballast and traction for the front end.

6. Pronovost(1) Lorenz(2)Allied Farm King(3) Kubota units are made by RAD and I own a green one and they are
)(*&^%$%^&*(. YES I am fussy as I hate changing shear pins when I am clearing land with mine!!

Pronovost and Lorenz have more options, The pronovost P540, P620 models have an extended chute option(semi industrial)

to keep the snow out of your face.


You will be better off buying in the summer as they are impossible to get in the spring fall or winter.

Just remember I do not have my hand on your wallet; and when they start blinking their eyes when
you start asking questions about the mule or thier branded snow blower using my suggestions WALK AWAY
with your wallet in your hand and not in your pocket.

7. send me a PM if you have more questions. Look at the bigger Yamahas as you will be able to buy 3 of them for the cost of a mule and a rear mount.

 

[Ugarte]

Such a detailed and knowledgeable reply. You're a generous man, Leon. I now see that there's more to this business than simply hooking up the caster and throwing the switch (I had to Google "salamander"). I'm off to the dealer this am, but I'll keep you posted. Thanks.

 

[nybirdman]

My tractor sits out-side(Northern NY on the border) and never needed more than a block heater to start.
I use R1 tires and a front mounted snowplow but for the size tractor you are looking at a blower would be better.

 

[Shift4200]

I have 20hp (claimed) at the PTO and use a 54in Woods (SB-54s) blower. 60% of my driveway is at ~7% grade and I've always felt stable and had good traction with my r4/Chain setup.

I always did my clearing right after the storm, but had no trouble going thru the icy mess left at the end of the driveway by the plows even when it was almost the max (24in) depth.

My tractor is stored outside (Southern New England) in one of those tent style garages and I have no block heater. I had a few cranky starts this past winter, but it did start every time.

I imagine you would get a better deal on the blower when buying with the tractor. But that's just an assumption. I bought mine separate and felt i got a really good deal.

-J

 

[dave1949]

I would choose the tires for the non-winter uses and plan on putting good chains on whatever tire style you choose for snow removal. Since you have a stone driveway you can use some really aggressive chains and not hurt anything. Tire grip and weight are what you need for easy snow removal. R4's are probably the worst tire style for winter traction.

100' is not a lot of driveway for the size tractor you are looking at. You didn't say how far it is to the outbuildings or if you need to get to them daily. I really think you could manage with just a FEL depending on the outbuilding situation. It would be worth trying for a season or two given the price of blowers IMO.

I have a 1/2 mile loop that I keep open for dog walking in winter. Most of the time I just put the bucket down level to the ground and push through the snow letting it bunch up along the side of the lane. It's surprising how much the snow will back away from the cleared sides on sunny days. If it's deep enough to come over the bucket I go around a second time for clean-up. That is faster than blowing and a lot more comfortable on an open station.

For blowing comfort it's all about the wind direction and unfortunately my lane loop goes to the west from the house. I could drive to the far end and blow snow coming back, or just grit my teeth and have at it which is what I do. I don't like taking my only tractor far into uncleared snow in case something goes wrong and I'd have no way to get to it with my truck.

I do have a rear blower that I usually use on the wider 650' driveway, and the walking lane if the snow is drifted deep in a few places, but I could've (and have) done it all without the blower. The FEL gets messy and time consuming on the driveway because 6' (my bucket width) is not wide enough and the FEL doesn't slant left or right like a plow will so it leaves a trail of snow on each side of the bucket. Not the end of the world and 100' feet certainly wouldn't take long to go back over.

Snowblowers tend to leave a nice trench that the next drifting snow will fill pretty quickly. Pushing the snow back as you clear with a FEL or plow avoids some of that.

 

[HEC]

I'll be buying a new tractor before the snow flies primarily for snow removal use--probably Kubota B2601 or L2501. Loader bucket on front; 3pt pto snowblower on rear; front mount blower too complicated and too expensive, imho. I'll be blowing the snow from from about 100 feet of crushed stone driveway--like coarse sand--and from paths across frozen mown fields to various outbuildings. We experienced Maine's coldest and third snowy-est winter on record this last year and I had to wade across a six foot drift all winter because my trusty walk behind blower just couldn't keep up--never again. So, questions:
1. Is 20 pto hp enough for 64" 3pt snowblower? Is 20 enough for a 51" blower? (Kubota L2501 or B2601.)
2. Will a 3pt blower power through frozen, crusty, week-old snow? (As a walk-behind decidedly will not.)
3. R4's without chains or turf with chains?
4. Engine block heater required? Coolant heater required? Any other starting or running cold weather equipment required? (Winter in coastal Maine. Lows to -10F. Third snowiest winter on record last year; snowstorm twice a week for two months.)
5. How stable is a 4X4 tractor, FEL on front/blower on back, backing through 2 feet of snow across gently sloping frozen fields? (Planted solid or Nantucket sleighride?)
6. Kubota snowblower or third party? (Can I do better cost-per-value by not buying the SB with the tractor?)
7. Any other advice appreciated, thanks.

1. I have about 20 pto hp and have no problem with a front 60 inch blower .

2. The rear mount blower and front end loader is a great set up and you will have no problem as long as you have hst .

3. I use loaded R4's without chains no problem. (4wd of course )

4. My tractor is in a garage but I still use the block heater for about hr. if it is below 32 .

5. Stable

6. Find the best deal , I never broke a shear pin all winter , the trick is not to overload the blower .

7. Try and stay warm

 

[dave1949]

I've had good and bad experiences with R4's in winter. They worked fine on a short ~100', flat, asphalt or stone drive in Wells, ME. I left the backhoe on for weight. Here I have a sloped, stone, much longer drive with a southern exposure. After I did a tractor slow-mo 360, and could have ended up in the road, and got stuck a couple times, I decided I needed chains. Love my chains. :thumbsup:

 

[Amvcane]

I'm in total agreement with HEC.
Start looking now and buy a used 3pt blower. You will save yourself a lot of money.

 

[chim]

This past winter was my first with a snow blower and it was a lot of fun. Mine is a used and repainted 64" Pronovost. Added electric chute rotation and up/down with rocker switches on a pendant in the cab. I discovered that slowing to a crawl while backing toward garage doors allowed the blower to remove almost all the snow and limit the hand shoveling.

I also made side extensions that lock on the loader bucket and are each held with one bolt. They make a difference when pushing snow.