2 link vbar vs. expensive fancy chains?

[Fallon]

I ordered the wrong size mesh chains from tire chains.com & am now looking at my options.

They only offer 2 or 4 link chains for the fronts on my L3200 (27x8.50-15). I think the 2 link vbars were about $100. No mesh or more aggressive options in my size. I have seen some really aggressive H pattern ones at https://www.qualitychaincorp.com/hp1307hdv-heavy-duty-v-bar-h-pattern-chain-small-tractors & other places. But at pushing $400 that's tough to swallow.

Are those beefier chains going to be that much better than 2 link vbars on the front of my tractor on my R4s?

I'm still debating wheel spacers so I can get the 2 link vbars I got used a while back on my rears. Not excited about widening my track though. I know some people disagree with only running chains on the front, but I'm not to worried & willing to assume that risk.

 

[lungdoc]

I think 2 link V-bar are plenty for fronts and I can't conceive of needing anything more aggressive. Indeed I would worry re V-bar (and anything more aggressive) fronts and unchained rear about putting too much strain on the front drive train. I run Duo-ladder on the rears and V-bar (I think 4 link) on the fronts and have never needed more, and we have some pretty good hills. V bar will mark concrete-pavement, I use plywood to protect garage floor. I got mine from tirechains.com about 6 years ago and have been happy.

One intermediate option some are happy with would be to use carbide screw in studs in the rears.Less aggressive than chains. Snowmobile ones are fairly affordable, the special hardened ones are as much money or more than chains eg Maxigrip.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I'm less than impressed with the duo grip v bars on my jd. I even tightened up the pattern and it's still just ok. This is on r1 tires. I have ran 2 link v bars on the front axle only on my l3400 with 0 issues in many years. They are very good chains and are going to need replaced after this season because I used them so much. I have a set of the aquiline talons on the rears of my jd and they are dam good chains. The price was painful but well worth it.

 

[joeyd]

I use 4 link v-bar on front and back and have not slipped on ice in the 5 years I've been using them. I have a similar situation, gravel drive and a luge run for a road when it gets icy.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I use 4 link v-bar on front and back and have not slipped on ice in the 5 years I've been using them. I have a similar situation, gravel drive and a luge run for a road when it gets icy.

I think the v-bars are the secret for side traction on the ice. Or more accurately the protruding points off the chains since my talons are also excellent ice chains and the are more aggressive than any v-bars I have had. My impression with chains is that any chain is better than nothing but an aggressive chain is that much better than 4 link plain chains. In other words, if some research is done and your climate, uses, or terrain dictates the need the money is well spent on the right chains.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

This might help. Talons on the rears, tightened patter v-bar duo grip on the front. I don't care for the duo-grips in factory spacing or after I tightened the pattern.

 

[kco]

RedNeckRacin, we both modified our DUO's and discussed it in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-chains-planned-modifications.html?highlight=

The modification ends up with the H-pattern that Fallon is considering in the original post. My impression of the converted-DUO(H-pattern) chains is more positive than yours. The change made a huge improvement by reducing slippage and smoothing the ride. Part of it may be that I don't have Talons, which no doubt are more effective, and my fairly small diameter rear tires made the pattern gaps show up in a rough ride and slippage. Even after modifying to the H-pattern I had trouble with the end gaps, which I closed with a normal ladder chain link. I fixed that last year by adding one more DUO pattern that spans the chain closure. If inclined, it looks like you could use one more DUO pattern to span the closure on your front DUO's.

Here are the chains before I added the DUO over the chain closure:



Here they are with the added DUO pattern:



Fallon, my DK35SE has 27x10.5-15 R4 front tires to your 27x8.5-15. I bought non-v-bar H-patterns like you are considering:



I fitted them last year after getting spacers but have not used them yet. However I am sure they will work well.

I previously had old 2-link ladder v-bars on the front and they did a great job. I changed them because I had clearance problems (and added spacers) and because they are quite worn out:



The shiny sections are from hitting the front wheel assembly and the welds on some cross chain links were starting to separate.

Either H-pattern or ladders should work fine for you. In addition to being cheaper, 2-link ladders would be easier to fit. Something I found that made fitting chain easier is the pin couplers (instead of screw links) as seen in the 2nd and 3rd photos.

I have front and rear chains mounted all winter but don't use 4-wheel drive unless I need it. The front chains help for steering even if not in 4WD.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Kco, I do remember the discussion and I think you gave me the idea about tightening up the pattern. I think part of my issue is that the r1 tires are still pretty deep and I don't get alot of chain exposure to the ground. IE the gaps in the lugs aren't pressing the chains in except at the bars. The talons are guranteed to have contact 99% of the time and I think the studding is even more aggressive.

 

[RickB]

I think 2 link V-bar are plenty for fronts and I can't conceive of needing anything more aggressive. Indeed I would worry re V-bar (and anything more aggressive) fronts and unchained rear about putting too much strain on the front drive train. I run Duo-ladder on the rears and V-bar (I think 4 link) on the fronts and have never needed more, and we have some pretty good hills.

Exactly.

 

[Fallon]

Well I got the tirechain.com 2 link Vbars & finally put them on the fronts (after the snow fell of course & when I had to leave my tractor parked outside in the snow). I should probably have 1 or 2 more crossbars on there, but they fit well enough. Now when plowing (HST M range) I'm power limited, not traction limited. This weird thing that's never happened before now happens with I have a plow full of snow & turn the wheel. I think it's called turning & it's kind of nice. Pretty happy with things. Not seeing a lot of reason for the wheel spacers on the rear so I can fit those chains on now. My plowing capability went up at least 30% with chains compared to my first run of the day without.

I also have the blower on the back rather than the back blade, which I assume weighs a bit more giving me a bit more traction as well.