Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower

   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #1  

Mikkelsen

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
29
Location
Donnelly, Idaho
Tractor
Kioti DK10
planning on using a 1,000# 3 point blower on a Kioti dk5510 which has a relatively short wheel base...about 6' I think. I'm thinking I'll need front weights to keep the tractor better balanced...any thoughts on how much extra front weight I might need?
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #2  
Do you have a loader? How far behind the pins does the snowblower hang? I'd be surprised if you needed much to keep the front end down, have you hooked up the blower yet to see if the front end is light?
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #3  
I wonder if some good "Trygg" type ice chains would do the trick. Buying weight can be expensive and a good set of chains might weigh just enough with the added traction, and be useful in other situations where the weights, depending on your use, may only be used for blowing. I'm assuming your steering is a little light with the blower in the air.
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Yeah, front feels light
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #5  
I would try it first and then start adding front weights, up to maximum suggested in owner's manual, and stop when it feels good. You probably don't need much.
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #6  
When you are blowing the snow blower is not supported by the tractor but rather by the ground so front weights are no benefit.
When you pick up the blower it is to turn and maneuver and having a light front is an advantage. Use your individual rear wheel brakes to make pivot turns.

The front axle of any 4WD tractor is fragile and expensive. Dont load it any more than you have to because if you break it it will be very costly.

Trygg SMT chains are the answer to push your blower into the snow. If you need more traction just lift the blower a fraction and then the weight of the blower is on the chain studded tires and you have more grip.

nl4i8w.jpg


24ms0gh.jpg


First winter with new tractor no chains. Blower is pulled through the snow. Called an inverted blower.
Ever since TRYGG chains. Nothing like them, Thought they would destroy paved driveways. Just small polish marks which the sun
fades out early in the summer..

Dave M7040
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #7  
Yeah, front feels light

Do you have a loader on it?

I have a DK40 with a similar weight blower and no problem at all but I do have a loader on it.
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #8  
DaveM7040--I'll give you that the front end on a FWA is expensive and I'll give you that you don't need a lot of weight with a snowblower but, unless that's your grandfather in that photo, you won't hurt that Kubota front end in your lifetime. They are rugged beyond rugged and I have seen them stupidly abused and keep right on rolling. I've seen them with double the front end weight and no problem. Not that I would ever do it, i'm just pointing out how rugged they are.

Beautiful tractor, by the way and one of the best models ever made. You have a keeper are a lucky man to have one. :)

Now, make sure you check your front axle and hub oil. Not sure if you did but there are many posts commenting on how they needed oil added to mostly the hubs but also the front axle. Mine took a couple quarts in each hub and that is typical.


EDIT--Beautiful pictures
 
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   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks everyone, do you think front chains are worth the investment? Thanks Dave for the technique pointers.
 
   / Recommended front weights? 1,000# 3point blower #10  
Mikkelsen

There is another post somewhere on this forum where the question posed had to do with tires spinning on asphalt, would they spin more or less with chains.

My answer was in my area we rarely have the luxury of asphalt or packed snow or ice. It is always a combination.

I suggested to the person with the problem, he chain his rear tires and leave the front bare. If he is on pavement without ice or snow then engage the front axle and let it pull and thus reduce the need to spin on the chained rear tires.

I think having one end chained and the other not you have more options.

I grew up when front drive axles had simple cardan joints at the wheel end. These joints did not like transmitting high torque loads at steering angles and often would break.

Then I bought a surplus Volvo military truck which had "portal axles." Now the torque to the front wheels passed through gears and not cardan joints and you could apply full power and full steering lock without a concern.

My kubota front axle is like that so no concerns with steering angles but there are still tractors using the cardan joint.

My neighbor was over with his equipment to tear down and remove an old shed.

His tractor, one of many, is new, very powerful and yet has Cardan joints on the front axle.

25qzs4o.jpg



Some of the smaller new tractors still use this cardan joint technology and it is for that reason I am always cautioning owners to not ask too much from it.

Dave M7040
 
 
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