That was not at all on my radar, but I am very open to alternatives. Why do you like the rear-PTO option? I just can't imagine driving backwards all the time, but maybe it's easier than I think(?) or the results outweigh the disadvantages, or...?
Honestly I had categorically ruled out a rear-PTO solution, but also recognize that another perspective can be superior to mine. I know, I know, hard to believe, but true.
Thanks,
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If you invest in a simple cabbed mule with heater or not you can simply put a very firm pillow behind you to support you until you become more comfortable with how to sit in the seat.
Some of the members invest in swivel seat and some mules have that as an option but that is in the larger engine frame size mules to allow for easier crop harvesting with towed machinery.
The thing is that you can turn sideways in the seat and push the reverse pedal to move and the snow caster is nothing more than a boat anchor as long as you have rear chains and the rear tires loaded with windshield washer fluid.
Your going to be running that engine at the Rear PTO implement speed and at 540 revolutions per minute and on the first pass your going to be taking a full cut at a slow speed of travel and you can take half cuts on the next passes.
You can buy a wider rear snow caster in the next horsepower size rating for a smaller mule and just travel a bit slower and make fewer passes but still eliminate the plowed snow bank mess that will trap snow in plow cut.
As long as your three point hitch has the hydraulic power to lift it it will work for you.
If you buy a front mount snow caster the Mid PTO is used wherein the power is transmitted to either a gearbox or a reversing chain system to power the front mount snow caster.
The front mounts require an under frame mounting system and they are vicious when they bite because you forget that frame is sticking out someplace in a dark garage.
A smaller mule will work with a wider snow caster as long as it is operated properly and not abused.
You have to understand that the current two stage snow casters are designed mostly for powder snows and
the open auger system is not your friend. you have to keep the impeller filled to make the most use of the number of impeller paddles it has meaning the slower you travel the faster the snow caster will allow the impeller to throw it.
The gap between the impeller paddles and the impeller drum is the worst part because the friction from the impeller will melt the snow and cause it to become less efficient and use more power with a front mount and a rear mount unit BUT clarence's impeller kit solves that by sweeping out all the snow and ice chunks.
Many of the members have small sub compact mules with front loaders and rear mount snow casters and many also have wider rear mount snow casters using the sub compact mules.
Look at it this way.
Any rear mount snow caster has fewer parts and a direct drive impeller system from the 540 RPM PTO through the gearbox.
The limiting factors are/is/will be available power, money, debt service BUT having a wider snow caster lends itself to making wider passes at slower speeds where the impeller is rotating at its maximum speed clearing the snow that is fed to it BUT the open cross augers do not cut the snow up the impeller does that and it makes the impellers job that much harder as it has to shear the snow being pushed into it to cast it away.
no one makes a single stage snow caster with a solid cross auger UNLESS you are will to invest in an RTV/UTV/quad bike motorized snow caster from Finland-they do move a lot of snow. you would need a quick attach kit for a front loader for it to work but the weight will not let you lift it very high and you would not want to do that anyway as the loader could not handle it.
A smaller mule with a loader and snow caster is a good combination to move snow and remove it. many of the members have them and use them on monster driveways and many that are on inclines/hills and they are well equipped with loader rear tires and snow chains for the work.
you have to do a lot of decision making with a decision tree and or a reverse decision tree if you want to be clinical about it to arrive at an algebraic solution to this.
Remember if you skimp on quality it will bite you in the posterior and you will not be happy changing shear pins in a snow storm and not having a magnet light and forgetting to use a tarp to lay on while working on it is the first mistake you will make.
Remember bringing a knife to a gun fight does not work unless you are good at throwing long distance and your opponent only needs one chance to do business.
its better to have more a mule with more power and a loader and a wider snow caster. You will not be able to dig up frozen snow banks with a loader or a plow
If you buy a snow caster with the extended chute option it gets the snow above the canopy or cab and reduces the snow dust to a minimum.
In one of my threads I went through this completely and much greater detail for a member and I am sure its still on the snow removal or attachments section.
ASK YOUR NEIGHBORs about what they use for snow as you will be the one stuck with the task and you know how much time and money you have to work with.
Never mind the horsepower per foot of width suggestions!!!!!!!, as the gearbox rating for the snow caster is what is doing the work for you. The poorly designed open auger method is a curse in snow of any depth as the snow is pushed forward as you back up or drive forward with a snow caster of either type.
A smaller 4 wheel drive mule will take longer with BOTH A rear mount AND a FRONT mount snow caster but you can use a loader the year round too and a mule without a loader has a very low resale and trade value!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you have snow and ice a 4 wheel mule will get stuck and very stuck and you need chains and loader rear tires and avoid calcium chloride as it will eat the tire rims as most mules have tubeless tires now.
