Snowblower size recommendation

[dnw64]

I am looking into getting a tractor primarily to blow snow for my personal driveway, roughly 5000SF total.

At this point I am considering a TYM 254HST, which is a 24HP diesel with a 17.4 PTO-HP rating.

I've looked all over the web, forums, mfr websites, and YouTube videos and have not come to any great conclusion.

Pronovost says that any of their Lynx models, up to 70" require 16 - 25 PTO-HP.

Woodmaxx says their 60" model requires 18 - 30 HP, and 25 - 60 HP on their 72".

Based on the physical dimensions of the tractor (46" overall width), The absolute minimum would be 54", to give me 4" on each side of the tires. That's what I have on my current Case 444 with 48" blower and that is a minimum. 60" would be a more comfortable margin.

However, several posts I've read have indicated (and it seems logical to me) that the width doesn't really matter too much, being that what your're doing is throwing snow. It takes X force to move Y pounds Z feet. So if you have a wider blower you just slow down compared to a narrower one (there may be higher friction losses in a wider one, but if it's the same model/construction it doesn't seem like that would be measurable).

The primary reason then, that I would consider a 64 - 70" blower is to maximize efficiency. Every time you have to stop/start and/or turn around is non-productive time. So a wider blower would reduce the number of times that happens. Also, with small amounts of snow the fan housing will be full at a lower ground speeds, maximizing throw distance without having to feel like you're going to the races.

The above is all theoretical, of course, or I wouldn't be asking.

Additionally, it seems logical to assume that some blower designs are more efficient than others. My biggest concern regarding performance is distance, as I have a 40' wide parking area that needs to be all blown to one side. I'd really rather blow clean past than have to re-blow when I get near the end.

Any real world experience/recommendations?

 

[Fallon]

I advocate going wide in flail mowers. Not sure I would on a blower though. You have to push the blower into the snow & to some degree push snow in front of the blower.

I had a 60-62" blower behind my 60" track 25pto HP L3200. Worked well most of the time. Trying to push the blower into packed 3' drifts was very challenging. Lack of traction combined with the blower putting a hurt on available HP. Pushing a bigger wider blower into those piles would be noticeably harder. It would be really hard without a HST.

Personally I wouldn't go to much wider than your track. A few inches wider makes for easier maneuverability. Going to much wider will make it a bit more challenging depending on your conditions. Not impossible at all but challenging.

 

[KWentling]

I wouldn't go more than a 60". 54" on my 19 PTO HP Kubota is about right. It can be a pretty good load in deep snow.

 

[CobyRupert]

If you're pushing snow with your blower you're going too fast.
Is your tractor hydrostatic? If so, I'd go big and not worry about it, you can always slow down for big storms.
If someone says you need "x" horsepower per foot width, ask them "At what speed?" and "At what depth of snow?" (also how heavy is the snow?)
Horsepower is a measure of speed, not work.

And if you still believe you need "x" hp/ft, for a (say) 18" storm, then it's overkill for the other 95% of the storms.
As long as you can slow down, you'll get it done.

 

[FatTire]

There is no right or wrong on this one, but if 54" give you 6" of overhang, I'd be happy with that. Coby, maybe the thing is if you're pushing A LOT of snow you are going too fast? I mean aren't you always pushing some snow? Any time I stop and back up a blower, there is always some pile left there, that's the amount I was pushing. Or no?

Probably I should make clear that I pretty much swing to the extra HP side, I don't care that much about the little storms (why not just plow those?) but I want to be able to handle the big ones with relative ease.

 

[leonz]

Lots of things to examine here.

First is your money and how much you can afford to spend to accomplish fighting with the winter beast and avoiding junk at all costs. It may be better to look at the overall picture and what you will be doing with your mule the year round.

In saying that though, you should understand that a front end loader will add to the value of the mule at trade or in a sale as they are harder to sell outright without a loader and aid you in removing snow the blower cannot clear

How much wind you have to deal with and whether you plan on clearing snow at all hours. The wind is a big factor as you may want a chute extension to keep the snow up and away from you as you clear it.


More than a handful of the members have smaller diesel 4 wheel drive mules and use rear wider blowers and go slower on the first pass and take smaller cuts on the second pass to go faster when clearing. They have chains and loaded tires.


YOU have to have traction( chains) and adhesion(liquid ballast) adhesion to make the rear or front snow caster work well in deep snow.

Rear chains and loaded tires are a must have to clear heavy wet snows unless you have flat land to deal with but loaded tires are a plus.

The other issue is whether you want turf or R4 tires and 2 or four link chains and whetehr you want V bar chains or standard ladder chains AND OR if you are worried about the asphalt. Do not forget its going to bleach out anyway so scuffing it with chains is a no issue if you coat it. I do not bother with coating mine as the sun bleaches it right out.

When you get into five blade impellers you are looking at 40+ horsepower for the mule and if your going that high a heated cab
is a good idea as you have work lights, windshield wipers and a heater and or canned air.

My dads neighbor in the old neighborhood had a Kubota BX 2350 with a Kubota front mount snow caster with a hard cab and a full size Kubota heater plumbed into the radiator cooling system with a defroster diverter in the heater and and she loved it.
She could work clearing snow with no need for a coat while working. She did not have loaded tires or chains but she had a driveway and parking area that was easy to clean anyway.

Rear mount snow casters are so much easier to deal with and maintain than front mounts as they do not need an underframe and a reversing gearbox or roller chain set up.

You also have to remember that front mounts are smaller than rear mounts in the scheme of things where the cross auger housing
is smaller and deep snows will ride over the housing and you will have to back up to clear it again.

Depending on the brand the rear cross auger housing may be enclosed or open and permit more snow to enter at one time.

Both the front mounts and the rear mounts suffer from the same problem the open auger design is counter productive and will push snow pack away from the impeller if it is wet and dense enough and clean up at the end of one pass requires more work
to clean up the pile in front of it.

Lining the cross auger housing and the impeller housing with slick sheet material helps in keeping the impeller full but operating at a slow speed throws the snow the farthest distance.

You should also look at the two brands that have the rotating impeller drum that bypasses the the chute and spout and throws the snow to the left or right with high force as it bypasses the chute and spout(pronovost and lynx?). You need a wide open area to the left or right to take full advantage of an option like that as it will throw a full stream of snow while you are clearing.

You have a lot to examine before you buy and do not hesitate to walk away from a dealers showroom without a purchase.
A serious "good" dealers reputation is what is going to make you spend money or walk away. Implements and attachments are a side sale issue for most of them with the sub compact market as the prices just keep climbing and they keep offering sale prices with a huge down payment(for me anyway).

Shop around ask questions of local farmers as to who they deal with and whether they can be depended on for parts and warranty service and do not hesitate to wander a hundred miles or so to inquire about prices and snow blower brands like Pronovost, lorenz or Loftness.

The heavier the the snow caster the stronger the build so keep that in mind too.

 

[dnw64]

Personally I wouldn't go to much wider than your track. A few inches wider makes for easier maneuverability.

The other reason is that we have a paved driveway which is just a bit higher than the adjacent lawn. If I can keep the wheels on the pavement and yet clear a few inches past the edge of the pavement the opening is much more maintainable. The pavement is only just 10' wide, so as the winter goes on and ice along the edges build up, it tends to get narrower.

I wouldn't go more than a 60". 54" on my 19 PTO HP Kubota is about right. It can be a pretty good load in deep snow.

Good data point, thanks.

Is your tractor hydrostatic? If so, I'd go big and not worry about it, you can always slow down for big storms.

I don't have one yet, still looking. But Hydrostatic is near the top of the Needs List for exactly that reason. My old Case 444 is HST and the only reason it was ever close to bearable to blow snow (14HP, 48" blower).

Probably I should make clear that I pretty much swing to the extra HP side, I don't care that much about the little storms (why not just plow those?) but I want to be able to handle the big ones with relative ease.

I would prefer to err on the high side. Give me 30-35HP and I'd be thrilled. But it needs to be in a small enough factor to be maneuverable AND fit in my garage. I don't want to plow, my property is not well laid out for it or I'd just buy a plow truck.

First is your money and how much you can afford to spend to accomplish fighting with the winter beast and avoiding junk at all costs. It may be better to look at the overall picture and what you will be doing with your mule the year round.

Part of my problem is that I don't really have a "budget". It's more a matter of just being able to justify to myself what is "worth it". At this point I don't see using the tractor for anything else. I hate mowing, so I hire someone to do that, the drive is paved so no maintenance there. We only have 2 acres, of which most is house/yard/garage etc, so no forestry, etc. OTOH, one of the reasons I'm considering a SCUT is that with a Class 1 3PH and PTO there are a multitude of relatively inexpensive options for attachments, as opposed to a proprietary system like Steiner/Ventrac or PowerTrac.

In saying that though, you should understand that a front end loader will add to the value of the mule at trade or in a sale as they are harder to sell outright without a loader and aid you in removing snow the blower cannot clear.

Yes, I have come to realize that. I wasn't originally looking for a loader, and while I expect to rarely use it in snow clearing, I can see that some storms/winter is could be valuable. Also, while I hope to pick a combination that will take me through my Golden Years, I realize that I made decide after one winter or five that something else will suit me better. Or we'll move and have entirely different needs.

Rear chains and loaded tires are a must have to clear heavy wet snows unless you have flat land to deal with but loaded tires are a plus.

The other issue is whether you want turf or R4 tires and 2 or four link chains and whetehr you want V bar chains or standard ladder chains AND OR if you are worried about the asphalt.

I will probably try going without chains to begin with. Our entire drive is almost dead flat, and I have been 95% successful with my 2WD Case, no ballast at all, with basic ladder chains. So I am thinking that 4WD should manage in all but the most extreme situations, which happen rarely. We do use salt and get back to clear pavement after most storms. There have been a few rare cases where we have an inch or two of packed snow for a few weeks.

You should also look at the two brands that have the rotating impeller drum that bypasses the the chute...

I just today (think) I figured out how those work. It's because I was reading an article about impeller tip extensions and was thinking that for the ultimate in clearance the impeller should actually be attached to the housing which would spin and have holes in it... Oh, that must be what a "rotating drum" design is... d'oh!

...do not hesitate to walk away from a dealers showroom without a purchase.

Well I have the advantage of the experiences of this winter prompting me to do something for next winter, and winter isn't even over yet, so I do have some time

The heavier the the snow caster the stronger the build so keep that in mind too.

I've heard a lot of good things on the forum about Pronovost, but there are two major differences between the Lynx and the Woodmaxx:
The Pronovost Lynx 62" weighs 339#, the Woodmaxx 60" weighs 695#. More than twice as much?!!
The Pronovost has a welded cutting edge, the Woodmaxx has a bolt-on replaceable one*.

Appreciate all the feedback

*Since I have a paved drive and like to keep it clean, I don't use skid shoes and the cutting edge does wear, so this is a definite consideration for me. I have torches and a MIG as well as TIG welder but would rather not have to use them if unnecessary.

 

[leonz]

The Lynx models are the economy side of the Pronovost units if I remember correctly.

The first five Pronovost models run from 550 pounds to 808 pounds in weight.
The basic TRC800 with the rotating drum is designed to be used for mules with 25 to 50 horsepower
so you can manage that as long as you can lift it with the mule you buy.

If you invest in a loader you can use one of the loader circuits to power the drum rotation function
but that would prevent you from using the loader while you have the snow blower functions connected.
Another option would be to use a diverter valve from Pronovost that they will provide you if desired.

 

[RickB]

I just had to blow 30" of snow with a 74" blower run by 42 PTO HP from a gear drive tractor with a slow reverse speed of 1.4 MPH at PTO speed. It was more than the tractor wanted taking the first full pass. I have used this combination successfully for severally years in mostly lesser accumulations. A hydrostatic transmission would be helpful, but won't be happening.

 

[RjCorazza]

i agree that hp is over rated when discussing snow blowers, particularly with HST machines. I would size it just over the tractor width.
You mention golden years, so I will add my two cents... I didn't get a cab tractor 13 years ago because the brand I wanted started with factory cabs on one model higher than I decided upon. After years of freezing I wish that I had gotten the cabbed tractor then. I recently traded it in for a larger cabbed Kubota and couldn't be happier (and warmer).