Snow Attachments Blower moved from 3 PT to FEL

[Lowrider2120]

By request.





Conversion cost about:

Engine: $620 with coupon
QD plate: $100
Chain and sprockets: $175

I had some steel to make the QD attachments and of course expert welding...free. I paid $500 for the rear snow blower so the entire thing cost about $1,500 and allows the whole thing to be lifted up on the FEL to clean up and take it up to blow snow deeper than 16 - 18". We had one snow of about 28" which required two passes but worked fine. I welded a piece of 2" angle on the bottom of the front edge to keep it out of the rocks and also skids on both sides as well. No problem at all with picking up rocks or dirt.

I bought a 2500 lb remote control winch to control the chute but haven't got around to installing it. I haven't found it a big deal setting the chute to throw to the right and do most of my drive and area between the house and shop (80' x 100') using just the "right" setting. I do sometimes set it straight ahead to move snow in different areas. It's 1.3 miles from the house to US 95 so all the neighbors do their part to clean the road. I clean the 1/4 mile along my property and usually the widow's drive and parking area. Takes about 2 hours to do it with the blower from inside a 70F cab...great improvement over heavy clothes and wet condition on my old Ford...but I do kinda miss it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks.

Wish there was a "like" button.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Did you just "luck out" on crank rotation of engine matching shaft rotation of blower, or did you have to do any reverse gearing?

I'd like to sort out something similar, but would hope for a design for bigger snow depth. I'm not wanting to do the hydro pack off the pto and 3 pt. I know I asked it in your other thread too, but would a bigger hp drive engine on the blower make much difference? (Don't really want to mount a V-8, lol).

Oh, and not sure how wide your blower is? But I'd need at least a 72", and prefer to go 84".

 

[Lowrider2120]

60" with 3" flare on each side but I think the auger would handle another 3" on each side to make it 72".

Rotation was based on where the engine was mounted...call it "luck" if you like.

Bigger engine would help but it's really a matter of how fast you push the blower into the snow. If I went really slow I can probably blow 24" of light snow which would probably take the same amount of time as doing it faster at 12-16".

I have a PTO hyd pump for my backhoe and I thought of using that to power the blower but the cost was significantly more. The pump on the tractor is barely big enough to push snow with the little bucket and raise the bucket at the same time. It would not power a blower and move the tractor at the same time. That's one thing I miss with the smaller tractor...power to push and run the hyd at the same time. Plus...I had a 1/2cy bucket on my old Ford. The Kioti will do all I need, just slower...as we used to say...no substitute for cubes and torque.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Moved to "loader mounted snow blower" thread. This provides all the background info related to this build...sorry for the confusion.

 

[majorwager]

Looks like significant travel distance between both sprockets. Would a tensioner sprocket reduce chain flail. Engine operates at rated RPM?

 

[Lowrider2120]

Yes, probably. The folks in Spokane where I bought the chain and sprockets said try it without the idler and see how it runs. I do get some flop as the chain stretches but I expected that so I just take the slack out and it's fine. I think I have adjusted it 3 times but not lately. After snow time I'll probably consider the idler sprocket and maybe a chain guard since it does throw some grease. I never get near it while it's running but the guard would be a good idea anyway.

I'm running the engine at about 3/4 throttle which I'm guessing is about 2800 rpm. WOT I think to be 3600...haven't been there or needed it. the 5:1 ratio to get the blower at normal 540 rpm PTO speed should be about 2800. Peak torque is 2400 rpm.

 

[majorwager]

First, I admire your installation. And yes, the trade off is always between peak torque and max hp. Wonder about a simple sheet metal engine cover.? My blower and me, is covered with snow especially where discharge into the wind isn't optional. Past years, have seen factory units similar to yours, the engine is also exposed. Does cooling fan and air cleaner react negatively to very fine snow? Hand held non-contact tachometer could be helpful, and cost < $15. Just a thought.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Thanks Major!

I generally keep the chute pointed away from the engine but as you say wind will cover it with snow when it's blowing into chute. I put a deflector on the left side of the chute and that does help a lot but doesn't completely stop it. I have gotten snow in the air intake but it didn't seem to be enough to cause a problem. I think the heat probably melts it. A cover would be a good idea and I might do it that way to also cover the chain on the top and left side. Probably depend upon what I have laying around when I make it but I will keep that in mind.

I have an impulse tach but haven't used it. It hooks to the spark plug wire but it's made for 4, 6 and 8 cyl engines. So far guessing has worked fairly well but a real tach would be handy.

 

[PILOON]

Some years ago I did a similar installation on my Mitsubishi.
Blower was 48" and I mounted a 16 hp. in very similar fashion.
I did have to resort to a tensioner as the chain did stretch.

LOL it all came to a screaming halt however when the blower discovered an old starter hiding in the snow. My bad.
The gear box simply exploded as the augers were rust welded to the shaft.

While it did run for the season it proved to be awesome.