Removing those cylinder pins

[monstercub]

Hi Gang! I need to remove the bucket cylinder on my T5C. I'm having problems removing the pins holding it on.
They seem to be sticking and when I move the bucket they make one heck of a noise like they are rusted in. Is there any good tips
to remove these without doing any damage? Thanks.

 

[boggen]

get on some flat concrete, and put everything down on the ground, turn of tractor, then move all levers / valves for hydrualics, so everything comes to a better rest and take pressure off inside the hyd cylinder lines.

if you can take off a quick disconnect's or like hoses from hyd cylinder (both hoses) so oil can flow freely out of the hyd cylinder. it will allow the hyd cylinder piston to move more freely maybe allowing it to come out of a bind that it is in.

beyond that. a good old ale or bolt with a small sledge and beat them out.

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have you been putting grease into these spots via grease zerks? majority of stuff on tractors were things piviot there should be a grease zerk you can hook a grease gun up to and put some grease into things.

kinda wondering if you might not been greasing like you are suppose to, or maybe knocked off the grease zerk, it fell out (it happens) or for what ever reason company did not put a grease zerk in. (more likely possible on older stuff)

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would say grease first, then run it for a while. put some more grease in. and see what happens. you may need to move it a couple times during greasing, for it to actually start taking grease better. (stuff gets up in a bind inside no no real space for the grease to go.

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on a couple things were grease zerk was plugged up, or missing / not there. i have just taking a wad of paper towels and the grease gun and gobbed some grease on and used paper towel to try and work grease into the holes / bushings / pins as much as possible. worked for a few minuets with the hydraulics. then put some more grease on. worked it for a little more and repeated a couple times. eventually things started to loosen up. then i was able. to get pin out easier ((it was still in a bind)) and still required a sledge hammer and a awl and/or bolt to hammer the pin out. but it went much easier, it was messy but easier.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

If certain types of grease; especially those white ones, has sat a long time they can almost solidify. I have found warming (warming not heating) up the assembly then moving the parts through their cycle many times will soften enough to allow the pins to be beat out. Get the largest punch you have drill a hole 1/4-1/2" deep to set the pin in so it won't mushroom the pin and then proceed to beat on it. Answer some of Boggen's question then we may have some more questions. If the joint has had no grease and is rusted it can be a difficult task. Penetrating oil in the zerk hole and around the pin can help also.

Ron

 

[monstercub]

get on some flat concrete, and put everything down on the ground, turn of tractor, then move all levers / valves for hydrualics, so everything comes to a better rest and take pressure off inside the hyd cylinder lines.

if you can take off a quick disconnect's or like hoses from hyd cylinder (both hoses) so oil can flow freely out of the hyd cylinder. it will allow the hyd cylinder piston to move more freely maybe allowing it to come out of a bind that it is in.

beyond that. a good old ale or bolt with a small sledge and beat them out.

================
have you been putting grease into these spots via grease zerks? majority of stuff on tractors were things piviot there should be a grease zerk you can hook a grease gun up to and put some grease into things.

kinda wondering if you might not been greasing like you are suppose to, or maybe knocked off the grease zerk, it fell out (it happens) or for what ever reason company did not put a grease zerk in. (more likely possible on older stuff)

================
would say grease first, then run it for a while. put some more grease in. and see what happens. you may need to move it a couple times during greasing, for it to actually start taking grease better. (stuff gets up in a bind inside no no real space for the grease to go.

=================
on a couple things were grease zerk was plugged up, or missing / not there. i have just taking a wad of paper towels and the grease gun and gobbed some grease on and used paper towel to try and work grease into the holes / bushings / pins as much as possible. worked for a few minuets with the hydraulics. then put some more grease on. worked it for a little more and repeated a couple times. eventually things started to loosen up. then i was able. to get pin out easier ((it was still in a bind)) and still required a sledge hammer and a awl and/or bolt to hammer the pin out. but it went much easier, it was messy but easier.

Thank you, I will give it a try. I've greased these at least once a year. May have to do more. It doesn't look bent so it should work.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Most tractor and implements factory manual maintenance schedules call out to lube implement moving parts on a ten hour (implement time not tractor clock) cycle. Thats what I try to do.

Ron

 

[boggen]

adding to "tractor saebee" statements

i generally grease things before i get going for the day. even if it is only going to be an hours work, and unit been seating around for a few days or week. a machine can behave like a completely different unit when properly greased and the grease is maintained. other words a kids "slip n slid" (aka some plastic on ground and putting water down on the plastic, and the kids run then go sliding across it), vs running and sliding on carpet and getting a rug burn that gets you bleeding. grease can make a machine into a completely different monster and more likely to last much longer without costly repairs.

once you get a grease gun purchased, the grease cartridges are not that much.

yes greasing can be messy, but once you run the machine over a few times greasing it, you get things down with how to hold a rag / paper towels, how to deal with the grease gun end in twisting (some times) pulling (some times) pending on type of end. to get them on / off grease zerks. it can go fairly quickly and not really messy at all.

most times pending on size of machine and what it does, it may take me twice to walk clear around a machine hitting grease zerks. (missing a couple on first time around) more so when dealing with FEL (front end loader) and backhoes. also FEL and backhoes you may need to move them around some with hydraulics. in order to get to certain grease zerks.

to note it, you don't need some fancy mancy powered grease gun. i still use the old manual hand pump. as long as i show my mom were the grease zerks are for tractor / mowers / weedeaters and like. and give her an idea of how many pumps of grease gun to do. she is all good.

ideally you going to want to work out the rust / old grease in the joints. so first few times, you may end up pumping grease out till you start to see the new grease coming out. and wiping away all the old grease. ((hopefully rust coming out with the old grease)). once you get past the initial greasing and get the rust out. i generally only only give enough when i start to see grease start to coming out some place around the joint. (not a glob but just starting to). ya my machines look a tad crummy, with a couple globs of grease here and there every now and then. but i get full ability of the tractor that way, vs machine trying to fight against the rust.

 

[monstercub]

I've greased, heated and did a little pounding. The pin moved a little but then stopped. I have a feeling
the there may be metal overlapping in the way. Maybe from the last person fixing the cylinder or something
had pounded the pin and bracket turning over the ends a little. Is it best just to keep pounding it, or is there
something I should do before I bend more metal. Is there a way to hold the punch in the middle
of the pin without hitting your finger. Maybe more force is needed. Is there some kind of tool that can be used for stubborn pins?

 

[PILOON]

You probably have worn a shoulder or edge onto the pins due to lack of lubrication.
Make a 'bullet' and simply drive them out with a heavier hammer/sledge.

A bullet is a dowel of same diameter (or slightly less) as the pin but tapered at the contact end to prevent mushrooming the metal.
In fact tapering both ends is advisable so that you can then drive the 'bullet' clean thru without snagging.

You will find that bullet extremely useful when re inserting new pins.

 

[monstercub]

Thank you. I'll put something together and give a shot.