1538 with BH - what is needed for a 3 pt top and tilt

[LowellBen]

Took me a while to find the valve you had selected on Summit's website, P40G-3K16. Yes, those two items would get you started for a 3 valve setup with float on all three. Picture threw me off also as what they put there is for a solenoid valve. I see that the power beyond adapter is once again on back order. I had to wait nearly a month for them to ship mine. The tech rep I spoke with said that the adapter comes from a country near Ukraine, all though he declined to say what country. Don't know why they can't source such a thing here in the States.

I mounted my valve horizontally which resulted in a non-optimal hose config. Mounting the valve vertically would result in a cleaner hose setup, but the levers would have been too high for my liking. Also, I built my mounting bracket so that it hung off to the inside of the ROPS. By the time you have the PB adapter on the valve and a 90 deg fitting, that plumbing interferes with the seat when you swivel it for BH ops. There was enough play in the seat mount to get it to clear the fittings - barely. I was too lazy to cut off the mounting plate for the valve attachment and reposition it. Offsetting it an inch outboard would have taken care of the clearance issue for me. Your using a 3 valve would need a larger offset to clear the seat swiveling.

I don't recall how much in total I spent on my two valve setup. Somewhere in the neighborhood of $1k by the time you include hoses, fittings, couplers, etc along with the cylinders and valve.

You can find Chinese knockoffs on Amazon for some of the Summit valves. Who knows, maybe the Summit valves are made in China.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just keep in mind that it seems like most of the economy control valves have internal leakage issues and those issues are not warranted, they are considered "within spec". So if you want to go the economy route, expect issues. This is what you are looking at when you consider these valves. The valves that you are looking at here are among the cheaper version of things.

A 3 valve set from me would be about $1400. But all you would need are the 3 hoses & a tee fitting for the return to tank line.
That includes the mount, the 3 valves, 2 with the float feature, the 3 supply line port adaptor fittings, poppet couplers, male & female with 2-way sleeves, caps & plugs.

Do you have a press & dies to bend the 1/4" steel plate?

Good luck with your project.

 

[ADKMax26]

Lowellben,


Could you possibly post a picture of your setup? Just wondering how you mounted your valve. Right now I am thinking this will be a multi month build to spread the cost out. Buying a few pieces here and there. I did see a YouTube video on switching the handle mount around. That seems like it would be a bit easier to mount the valve from summit and run the lines a bit easier. I really appreciate the help so far from both lowellben and mtnviewranch.

 

[LowellBen]

I started off by determining where I wanted the control levers to be, then worked things backwards. For these pictures, the BH is mounted so I did not include pictures of the supply hoses being connected to the valve.

Also, I don't know about your 1533, but on my 1538 the hydraulics bleed down pretty quickly, like within hours. I learned the hard way to block the BH when I have it off of the tractor. Otherwise things bleed off and the BH settles to the ground. Same way with the loader. I try to set the bucket so that it doesn't collect water inside, but sometimes I don't do it quite right. The next day the bucket has rotated and settled so that it collects water the next rain. I've probably got about 8 hours of operation with the Summit valve in the hydraulic loop and haven't had an issue with bleed down.

 

[LowellBen]

I fab'd the bracket from Home Depot steel and welded them together with a Harbor Freight MIG welder. I thought I might have a nice arm rest, but things get way too hot once hydraulic fluid has been running through the system for a while. Will probably come up with some sort of pad.