1974 Ford 3000 Diesel

[Chevyboy89]

I have a long story, so I decide to sell my Massey 135 diesel because of all the issue's it had. So I sold it and the search begun for a replacement tractor, I found a ford 3000 diesel that I couldn't pass up. I purchased it and wired the gauges and noticed it ran hot per the gauge. It started leaking oil between the head and block and blowing bubbles in the radiator. So I purchased a new radiator, sent the head to the machine shop for a mill and complete rebuild. I thought great problem solved with a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, and hoses. Well, I was wrong, I installed the thermostat with the spring to the head and the temp is borderline hot on the gauge. I cannot see any coolant circulating in the radiator. My question is which way does the thermostat go? I checked 2 parts fische this morning and even had the dealer check as well, it shows the spring side of the water neck. The dealer said he just changed his on his personal tractor with the spring in the head with no issues.

 

[sd455dan]

You did it right .
Spring toward head.
you may want to verify actual water temp.

my 3000 Ford did exactly the opposite, gauge would barely move up from cold, but a mechanical gauge/laser temp reader gun always read 185-195* when warmed up

 

[Chevyboy89]

I thought I had because that's the way I have always installed thermostats, and that's the way the "original" one was installed. But I did check it with a thermometer and it peaked about 180* and the upper hose never really got hard. It runs good, smokes a little at idle but the lift is extremely smooth throughout its range. But the head gasket change was easy and straightforward, I did not adjust the valve clearance at that time but I will this weekend. I did clean the voltage stabilizer contacts and cleaned up some of the new wiring harness the previous owner made when he converted to an alternator. But without the dash panel installed the fuel gauge doesn't work, which leads me to believe I mind need to add another ground and hopefully that will cure some of these gauge issues.

 

[strum456]

It is fairly common for those tractors to collect crud in the water jacket. If you try everything above and it still overheats, you're going to have to look at cleaning out block. I pull all the freeze plugs and stick my pressure washer in all the holes. It is hard to believe the amount of gunk that will come out. The bad news is that to get the block fully clean, you have to split the tractor. However, you may be able to do some good just by pulling the side plugs and the water pump.

 

[Chevyboy89]

I had thought about the block being full of gunk, I am able to drain antifreeze from the side petcock quite easily. But I will definitely keep that in mind for the upcoming weekend. I do know the upper radiator hose never gets hard even after 6 hours of bush-hogging, and of course, I do not see any turbulence in the radiator but I have verified the temperature in the top tank only gets to be about 180*.

 

[Chevyboy89]

Well, last night I ran it until the gauge was borderline on black and red, I took the rad cap off and tested the coolant, 140 degrees. I thought well let me check it in another place, I drained the coolant from the side drain and it was 140 degrees as well, so I started the tractor and coolant came out fairly fast. That is the third thermostat I have put in the tractor with the spring/wax pellet toward the head even though 3 parts fische show it the other way. I'm thinking I may have to buy another temp sensor because the new one I installed maybe wrong or bad.