52 ford 8n hydraulics

[Soundguy]

On the 8n and the NAA, the big honkin axle nut is what holds the hub onto the axle. If this nut gets loose, it lets the hub play against the axle. Hub is cast, axle is hardened splines.. what happens 95% of the time is the hub wallows out, and the axle is fine.. Hub is about 50 bucks... or if the hub hasn't worn down and you can actually get it to tighten up on the axle splines before the big nut bottoms out on the axle shoulders.. you may be in luck. Also.. as a money saving venture.. some farmers will take strapping steel.. like is used to strap things down to pallets.. and cut thin strips out of it, and lay it in the grooves around the splines in the hub, to act as shims to get a slightly worn hub to tighten down for a few more years. Another method is to machine some washers so that the nut tightens against the washers.. but the washers have some clearance cut out so they dont bottom out ont he axle, but instead, snug up the hub to the axle. This will all make sens once you take a look at the pieces.

Also.. if the threads on your axle are damaged from the play.. don't worry.. there is a -good- workaround for that as well. The original axle nut had a locking pin, and was one piece.. however.. as I said.. if the threads are a tad messed up, you can get a 'repair nut'.. or it is also refered to by farmers as a '2-piece squeezem' nut' it is actually a tapered threaded sleave that fits over the damaged axle threads, and then has a collar that threads on the outside of the sleave, tightening it up as it threads on, and 'squuezing' the inner piece onto the axle and bad threads. A properly installed squeezem nut will torque down to the same spec as the original 1 piece nut.. 450 ft pounds, and will hold the hub fairly decently.. though the nut is like 12 bucks.. it beats buying a new axle for a hundred bucks.. when just the threads are damaged.

If you can stand by the rear tire and grab the top of it and move it back and forth.. the hub is loose on the axle..

Soundguy

 

[ford8n52]

I will also give this a try I guess I better start take pics of this project Thanks agian Jason

 

[ford8n52]

hey agian soundguy I was just wondering what the touqe specs are on the hydro pump cover and the lift cover Thanks for the help jason

 

[Soundguy]

If I can find my fo-4 I'll take a looksee.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

The lift cover and pump bottom plate should be 53-60 ftpounds, or 72-81 NM if I see the chart correctly.

Keep in mind that pretty much all the fasteners on the pump bottomplate, hyd top cover, side inspection plates, and pto bolts are the same size. However, I would not torque the round side cover bolts down very much. Just enough to seal the gasket, as the casting web is pretty thin right there. You can safely use gasket goop on the round side cover gaskets, and also a thin smear on the pto gasket.. but not too much.. the pto gasket will actually effect some preload and movement issues ont he pto shaft.. so the thin paper gasket there doesn't need to be loaded up by huge amounts of gasket goop.. a thin smear will do. The top cover and bottom cover gaskets on the other hand really need to be dry.. especialy at the right front corners where the standpipe is carrying the 1500-1700 psi oil. If you do need to 'tack' the gasket down to the flange to make instalation easier.. just use a microscopic smear in a couple places .. just enough to hold the gasket down.. but none near the standpipe.. and just enough to stick it...

I also probably would torque the pto bolts down to quite the 53-60 number either. I'd back off that a bit. perhaps 45 ft pounds.

Soundguy

 

[ford8n52]

Thanks for the info got it together without a drop of gasket goop now I found that some ether lost the washer thang that holds the shiffer under the spring and they tryed to make one out of a washer but it did not work luckly I find the washer they made before the gear got it. so now I have to hunt one of them down, did not get to try the hydro out one question I have is the 12 volt connversion on the 52 8n I dont know where the top braket bolts to on the engine the one that some one put on there is bolted under a head bolt and I don't like that idea because of blowing a head gasket Thanks for you help agian Jason

 

[Soundguy]

Actually, quite a few people use a head bolt ( or 2 or 3 ) as a tie down point for a top bracket for an alternaotr, or an aux hydraulic pump kit that a few people sell. The oem spark plug wire tube was also held down by head bolts / studs. If your bracket only uses 1 bolt.. I'd consider making it use 2, or relocate it altogether.. your choice.

If you do go the stud/bolt route, you might get a stud with a longer top thread portion, and to retorque after a warm up cycle.

Another option is to locate a bolt near the water pump area. My 2n has a delco alternator, and the top bracket runs to a bolt on the front of the engine.

Soundguy

 

[ford8n52]

hydro seems to be working as I can stand on the lift arms and it will lift me with no problem I wieght about 270 thanks agian for the help also found out this had a naa piston and the lift seems to hold when the tractor is shut off also got my oil pressure gauge working seems like I got 40 cold and 27 hot at hi rpm and low rpm 20 cold and 16 hot is this good on engine oil pressure? Thanks agian for you great help Jason

 

[Soundguy]

Just about any oil pressure above 6psi hot idle is good. Double digits is great.

I don't know what type oil you are using.. but if you had low single digit oil pressures on a sae 30.. the usuale step is to go to sae 40, or 20w50, or even sae 50 before an engine teardown.

Soundguy