roman
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2010
- Messages
- 163
- Location
- W Central New Hampshire
- Tractor
- MF 30(sold) Ford 1520(sold) Ford 1720(sold) Kioti CK4010SE HST Cab
I just made this ballast barrel, used stuff I had on hand. The only thing I bought was seven bags of quickcrete and 2" PVC. I also used a few hundred pounds of fieldstones. The barrel was shortened about 8" off the top. Made the initial cut with sawsall and trimmed it with a dremel tool. I left the top lip with enough room for chains, bar oil and fuel, My bigger saw may fit but I haven't checked that yet. Made the drain holes with a hole saw. Drilled them when the crete was still setting so the holes are slightly below the top at an angle. They seem to work well as you can see the watermark on the barrel side below the hole.
The cuts for the drawbar and trailer hitch were also done with a dremel. The drawbar, trailer hitch and the top link's steel are connected internally using Yankee ingenuity. It should stay together. I was going to use a receiver hitch but decided to use the old tongue with 2" ball because it fits every need for me and I squeak when I walk.
The PVC tool holders go straight to the bottom; I held them in place with zipties and the field stones. I wanted them straight vertical because I operate in the woods often and the tools need to be directly behind the tractor for protection. The drain holes for the tool holders were melted through the barrel bottom with a 1" steel bar sharp point heated with a propane torch. That took a few tries, the plastic is thick on the bottom!
It weighs in at approx 675-750 lbs. A few hundred more than my old one and sufficient for my little 1720. The trailer ball hitch will work well pulling logs to the landing.
In retrospect, my only need it doesn't fill: a chainsaw scabbard.
The cuts for the drawbar and trailer hitch were also done with a dremel. The drawbar, trailer hitch and the top link's steel are connected internally using Yankee ingenuity. It should stay together. I was going to use a receiver hitch but decided to use the old tongue with 2" ball because it fits every need for me and I squeak when I walk.
The PVC tool holders go straight to the bottom; I held them in place with zipties and the field stones. I wanted them straight vertical because I operate in the woods often and the tools need to be directly behind the tractor for protection. The drain holes for the tool holders were melted through the barrel bottom with a 1" steel bar sharp point heated with a propane torch. That took a few tries, the plastic is thick on the bottom!
It weighs in at approx 675-750 lbs. A few hundred more than my old one and sufficient for my little 1720. The trailer ball hitch will work well pulling logs to the landing.
In retrospect, my only need it doesn't fill: a chainsaw scabbard.
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