ewoz
Member
You said that the expected resistance of that solenoid was 1.5 Ohms. Where did you get that information?
b2400 starts, then stalls immediately
- Thread starter tomf
- Start date
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would disconnect the fuel solonoid then put a fuse back in the spot that keeps blowing to see if it still blows.
If it does then check your ign switch and wiring. )</font>
Already did this. With the solenoid disconnected the fuse does not blow, and the engine turns over but does not start. With a blown fuse and the solenoid connected, when the key is turned to the start position, the engine turns over, starts, and then dies immediately when the key is turned from the start position to the on position (during which the starter is disengaged).
I don't understand how the solenoid is powered if the fuse is blown. Why does the fuel flow at all if there is no power to the solenoid. Remember the fuse is blown. Is there some other mechanism that allows fuel to flow when the key is in the start position?
Thanks Tom
If it does then check your ign switch and wiring. )</font>
Already did this. With the solenoid disconnected the fuse does not blow, and the engine turns over but does not start. With a blown fuse and the solenoid connected, when the key is turned to the start position, the engine turns over, starts, and then dies immediately when the key is turned from the start position to the on position (during which the starter is disengaged).
I don't understand how the solenoid is powered if the fuse is blown. Why does the fuel flow at all if there is no power to the solenoid. Remember the fuse is blown. Is there some other mechanism that allows fuel to flow when the key is in the start position?
Thanks Tom
wushaw
Elite Member
Not that I'm aware of.
Your blowing the fuse with the fuel solonoid connected means to me a fuel solonoid should be changed.
Your blowing the fuse with the fuel solonoid connected means to me a fuel solonoid should be changed.
I concur. I pulled the solenoid. Then I hooked it up to the battery to see if the plunger would operate. It did not. Also the wires entering the solenoid appeared odd. Perhaps melted?? And I could see bare wire if I bent the wires.
I'm going to get a new solenoid. I'll see if that fixes the problem.
If anyone has any other input please feel free to let me know. I'm not overly confident that its a bad solenoid. It appears to be the most likely candidate right now. I'll continue to update this post.
Thanks for everyones' help. Tom
I'm going to get a new solenoid. I'll see if that fixes the problem.
If anyone has any other input please feel free to let me know. I'm not overly confident that its a bad solenoid. It appears to be the most likely candidate right now. I'll continue to update this post.
Thanks for everyones' help. Tom
Pks
Platinum Member
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- Apr 6, 2000
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- Saline, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota L3700SU, Cub Cadet 1430, Hustler Super-Z 66in, Vermeer 1250
That solenoid is about $130. If you have the workshop manual, it will give you all the ohm values you need to determine if it's bad. ...sounds like it is bad!
When mine died, the engine would only run when the key was in the start position.
When mine died, the engine would only run when the key was in the start position.
Peter, Did your fuse blow when you attempted to start? I already checked the resistance.
For terminal 3 to terminal 2, the resistance measured .3 ohms vs the book value of approx .4 ohms.
For terminal 1 to terminal 2, the measured 2.5 vs the book value of approx 1.5. I measured it again later and the resistance was 1.7 ohms
The resistance seems to be in range. Which is why I'm not confident that the solenoid is bad.
However the solenoid fails the Fuel cut off solenoid test. When I run power directly from the battery to the solenoid, the plunger is not attracted. According to the manual this means the solenoid is faulty.
My question is Would a faulty solenoid cause the fuse to blow?
Thanks Tom
For terminal 3 to terminal 2, the resistance measured .3 ohms vs the book value of approx .4 ohms.
For terminal 1 to terminal 2, the measured 2.5 vs the book value of approx 1.5. I measured it again later and the resistance was 1.7 ohms
The resistance seems to be in range. Which is why I'm not confident that the solenoid is bad.
However the solenoid fails the Fuel cut off solenoid test. When I run power directly from the battery to the solenoid, the plunger is not attracted. According to the manual this means the solenoid is faulty.
My question is Would a faulty solenoid cause the fuse to blow?
Thanks Tom
Problem solved. Replaced the solenoid. Starts perfectly.
One note. I checked the resistance of the new solenoid. It measured 12 ohms. This does not agree with the manual. The manual says approx 1.5 ohms. I'm guessing the manual is in error. Probably should read approx 11.5 ohmns. This makes sense. because Amps = volts/ohms. 12volts/12 omhs = 1 amp. 12 volts/1.5 omhs = 8 amps. Remember I was reading about 2.3 ohmns which would be greater than 5 amps. Actually I took several readings and the actual resistance varied from about 1.8 to 2.5 ohms.
Well anyway replacing the solenoid fixed the problem. Thanks for everyones' help. Tom
One note. I checked the resistance of the new solenoid. It measured 12 ohms. This does not agree with the manual. The manual says approx 1.5 ohms. I'm guessing the manual is in error. Probably should read approx 11.5 ohmns. This makes sense. because Amps = volts/ohms. 12volts/12 omhs = 1 amp. 12 volts/1.5 omhs = 8 amps. Remember I was reading about 2.3 ohmns which would be greater than 5 amps. Actually I took several readings and the actual resistance varied from about 1.8 to 2.5 ohms.
Well anyway replacing the solenoid fixed the problem. Thanks for everyones' help. Tom