Bucket Fork Builders???

[teg]

This is basically the same concept I am using.

Paynes Forks Light-Duty Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity, John Deere Green, Model# PFG1200 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

David

Paynes Forks 1200-Lb. Capacity Fork Stabilizer Bar for Item# 103606 | Bucket Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

Attachment is a photo of the above link... Did you see the stabilizer bar on that page? That might give some strength, at least between those two points. Welding a plate would help, too.

 

[kennyd]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...

You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?
You can easily build your own to attach to the JDQA or get these: Artillian Tractor Attachments

You can even get them in "kit" form if you want.

 

[teg]

... Artillian Tractor Attachments...

This was a pretty cool idea... see attachment.

 

[JJZ 109]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...
You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?

Take from someone who's been there with clamp on forks. Waste of time and money. The bucket blocks all visibility to your target and as you found out, can do a little twisting and turning of your bucket.
Also, turning the screw in on the clamp will dent in the bottom of the bucket. If you put a piece of steel under the screw to avoid that problem, the forks will kick sideways on you if you don't hit your target squarely. Again, it's hard to hit squarely when you can't see through the bucket.

 

[hotiron01]

Stop throwing good time/money after bad...

You already have the JDQA setup so why are you messing with clamp on forks?
You can easily build your own to attach to the JDQA or get these: Artillian Tractor Attachments

You can even get them in "kit" form if you want.

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done. Thanks

 

[kennyd]

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done. Thanks

You would never regret that decision. Post pics of what you have for suggestions, and search some. The hooks and pins are easy to make also with angle iron and CAT3 3PH pins.

 

[ETpilot]

it looks like the problem there is that you focus the load on the bucket, rather than distributing it for maximum effect. obviously, you would have much more strength with those two forks at the outside edge of the bucket. if you want to lift heavy loads from the center area, you need a way of distributing the load.

the good news is that it can certainly be done.

rjmack,thanks for posting that picture. I am building a 16x20x10 shed and was planning on using my FEL with a boom pole to set my trusses. Looking at your picture I am now thinking of, partially, building the corners of the 4th wall and leaving the center open for truss installation. I am working alone on this shed so I have to think a lot on solo working.

hotiron01, I have a fork that looks like an H with another cross member at the end. It slips on the bucket lip, goes under the bucket and is bolted to bucket corners. Works great. Easy on easy off.

 

[rjmack]

I am starting to think this is the way to go. Since I already have the bottom part of the forks built, could I weld some more 4" channel at a 90 deg. angle for the uprights? Then I would just have to build the quick attach frame. Just trying to make use of what I've already done.

it does sound like making use of oem style quick connects makes the most sense.:thumbsup:

rjmack,thanks for posting that picture. I am building a 16x20x10 shed and was planning on using my FEL with a boom pole to set my trusses. Looking at your picture I am now thinking of, partially, building the corners of the 4th wall and leaving the center open for truss installation.

happy to help.

i put the 3 walls up and bolted them together, lightly braced the sidewalls as there was no wind, set the trusses at the back, set the 4th wall as one piece, and then walked the trussed out by hand.

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

 

[JJZ 109]

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

Great idea, building the ladder for your overhang first, and then enclosing the end while everything is on the ground.
Much easier to access and no climbing around a dozen times like you would if you had set the gable end in place and then had to build your eave.

 

[ETpilot]

happy to help.

i put the 3 walls up and bolted them together, lightly braced the sidewalls as there was no wind, set the trusses at the back, set the 4th wall as one piece, and then walked the trussed out by hand.

i also threw in a pic of the gable solution. managed to build this, just me and my tractor.

Thanks for the rest of the pictures and added info. I was thinking of doing something similar on the end trusses.