bypassing electric tie

[jerseycows]

So I have a Case 8420 round baler (Massey 1734, Hesston 530,etc..) which has the accessory electric tie installed. When rotary cutting field perimeters a branch pulled the baler tie switch off the tractor and sent it through the mower so it's completely gone. I found a replacement switch through my local dealer and it will cost $435, which sucks. I purchased a standard 3 way 12 volt switch from NAPA with an inline fuse for $40 and have monkeyed with it far longer than I'd like to admit. Regardless of wire connections I can only get the tie arm to move 1 direction. Anyway, my question is can I essentially bypass the electric tie motor and go back to using a rope pull? I'm fed up with trying to get it to work, no one knows how to wire it properly, and the new switch is too much to spend right now. I only have 15 acres of hay left to cut and I'm hopeful for 1 more window of opportunity to get it done. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[CobyRupert]

"I purchased a standard 3 way 12 volt switch from NAPA with an inline fuse for $40 and have monkeyed with it far longer than I'd like to admit."

Not sure if there's really a "standard" 3 way switch; or if there is, is that what is needed?

I've never used a round baler, so don't know the application, but we need to know some details of the switch you're replacing:

1. Do you mean a 3 position switch? That is, did original switch have 3 positions that user selects (example: "Extend"-"Off"-"Retract" or something like that?)

2. If 3 position, how did original switch operate? Would you click it to one of 3 positions, or did it spring return to the center position (usually "Off")

Here's the tricky part:
3. How many "contacts" did switch have, and how did they operate? Example: On a 3 position switch you MIGHT have 2 wires that go on a contact that only closes when the switch is in "Extend" position, and 2 wires that go on another contact that only closes when switch is in "Retract position". And all are open in "Off" position. This would use 4 wires for 2 independent "circuits". (This would be a DPDT switch)
....or maybe some contacts open instead of close, or maybe they are closed in 2 of the 3 switch positions, etc... there are many possibilities. (but designers usually try to keep it simple).

What you/we really need to know is what do the wires go to, and what do they need to "do" when the switch is at various positions, then you can figure out what the switch's contacts need to do at various switch positions.

 

[CobyRupert]

FYI:

SP= single pole (pole loosely means how many (independent) "circuits" (or "power sources") there are)
DP= double pole

ST= single throw (how many "outputs") ST has one contact that opens/closes
DT = double throw (each "pole" has a "normally open" (N.O.) contact that works opposite of a normally closed (N.C.) contact when switch is operated.



...and note, even on double pole switches the two terminals shown on the left can be jumpered together so that only 1 wire is connected on the left.

 

[Farmer495]

You need the right switch, I think it's DPDT, same type of switch used for electric winch.

Worst case I'd get an electric winch kit and use that switch.....

Regular switch doesn't reverse polarity.....

 

[Tx Jim]

Shown below is a rocker switch utilized on JD rd balers to operate twine arms if bale monitor malfunctions that might operate your balers twine arm actuator. I will guess switch is available cheaper from other source than JD

 

[BeeferMan]

Sone one must have a service manual for this baler? I'm guessing there would be a schematic that should show the details for that switch.

Also, it sounds like you may need more than just the switch, but Messicks lists the switch for $48.65, part #7723372, "2 in stock"

 

[JPRambo]

Regular switch doesn't reverse polarity.....

Don't you just reverse the wires on one end of switch? 12 volt DC?