Case 580CK Year? Engine ID and running problems.

[Clint82]

Hi everyone!

I traded a 74 Dodge Dart straight up for a 19?? Case 580 CK with a front end loader. The bucket is like brand new.

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It has a possibly Frankensteined 4 cylinder gas engine. I am trying to figure out if the engine is original to the tractor or not. If it isn't, what it is, so I can order parts for it. The engine may be out of a 600 series combine for 660 I am not sure. The engine seems to fit in there okay but according to the hood it's probably not the right one. There is a hole that is half-assed torched into the hood to be able to get to the oil fill. Now you know as much as I do about the thing.

It was in rough shape and there was water in the oil from exhaust not being covered. I drained and flushed the system multiple times and now seems ok. The oil filter housing is set up horrible! The oil filter will NOT screw off without taking the power steering reservoir off.



The original oil filter for this tractor does not fit the current engine. (4 cyl gas) The filter is very short and small. Almost like on a garden tractor. The problem I have run into is the Case dealer said this does not seem like the original engine. There is only a serial number stamped on the tag on the block, not a model number.



I have a few issues with the tractor.

#1.

The tractor does not seem to have much power. I have to idle it pretty high to get enough power to use the loader. It lacks power and acts like it wants to die when putting it in gear and letting the clutch out. If I get it rolling and try to lift the bucket, god help me. It bogs down BAD and nearly dies. I have to stop, raise/tilt the loader and then continue on. Compression is good and equal. I don't know which engine I have to check the timing procedure or specs. Engine

#2.

The three point does not work. There is a 55 gallon drum hanging off the back for weight. I don't think it's too heavy to lift, but I may be wrong. If that's the case, I'll deal with it, because this thing has nearly NO traction even with the barrel.

#3.

The oil level rises slowly. The oil smells a bit like fuel and seems thinner than when it's fresh. I just don't know how fuel would get into the crankcase. I rebuilt the carburetor and it ran better, but still not trustworthy to take down to the woods and drag trees and what not.

#4.

The throttle linkage on the dash is rusted tight and will not work. I had to disconnect the foot lever linkage due to this. I installed a throttle cable from the lawn and garden section. It works, but not as it should. I have to take the dash off and free it up and re-install the other linkages and I'll be back in business.

Any help identifying the engine and running concern would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

 

[DJ54]

Here is a link that ought to help you find what you need: Official Case Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Look Up. Parts for Case Equipment and Construction Equipment. Parts Store for Case Wheel Loaders, Case Excavators, Case Skid Steers, Case Original Parts. It is a link to Case Construction's parts manuals online. I went ahead and got you as far as the main parts manual. All you need to do is click on what you're looking for. Note, there are 6 pages.

On the #1 page, #002 item in the list shows where to look for serial numbers. A lot of the older models seem to be missing the cowl piece, the serial number tag was pop riveted to.

You'll need to go to page #2 and #036 in the list,to find info on the gasoline engine. If you look at the picture of the block, you'll see the location of the block casting number. That is what you need to identify the engine you have. There should be a flat boss, with the casting number engraved there. If not there, look for a flat boss elsewhere, but I believe most were located there.

That number if original should be A37209. The serial number will be date of mfg. If that number does not match the above number, then get the block casting number, type in into a search engine, and see what you get. You could probabaly go to Case Ag. site, and do a search for the 600 series, as it should show block casting number for the Ag. tractors also.

As for #1 in your list, it sounds like the governor to me. Go to 050 to see an exploded view of the governor, that is on the original engine. May not apply to what you have though. Once you find out what engine you have, you may need to go to Case/IH Ag. to find that info.

#2 on your list... Go to page #5, and click on page 142. It will show you an exploded view of the hydraulic pump. It may be just low on fluid. If you're not that familiar with it yet, the hyd. pump for the 3 pt. is located behind the torque tube, and ahead of the transmission. If there is notable oil leakage showing around the clutch inspection plate at the lower front of the torque tube, more than likely, the shaft seal is leaking where the main drive shaft passes through. The tractor will need to be split at the engine & torque tube to replace it.

#3. Can't see enough of your engine to determine if if has a fuel pump attached to the block somewhere. If it does, I'd suspect the diaphragm was leaking on the pump, letting fuel into the crankcase.

#4. The throttle lever not working may be part of your power problem. ie: governor not working... If you look at the exploded view of the governor, you will see a couple of springs attached to the throttle rod, that in turn work with the gov. control rod. If that linkage is frozen, and not able to move, I'm guessing it will not allow the gov. to activate as it should.

As for the oil filter. How about one of those oil filter relocation kits..?? Hardest part would be finding a place easily accesable, but yet not get the lines/hoses in the loader arms. Second hardest would be cross referencing the filter, and see what all it fits, and see if there is an automotive application. I believe I remember that being a Wix filter, so doing a search at NAPA online, and using the parts interchange block up in the corner should get you some results you need. All I've checked, when checking the actual filter description, gives the thread and base size.

Purely all speculation on this end, but should help you get started on info you're looking for.

Once you determine what engine you have, and what it's out of, you can probably do a search, such as using Google for the model number of Case tractor it came from. Usually at the top of the results will be TractorData. When you open that link, it gives the serial numbers on down in the info.

Hope this helps..!!

 

[Clint82]

Here is a link that ought to help you find what you need: Official Case Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Look Up. Parts for Case Equipment and Construction Equipment. Parts Store for Case Wheel Loaders, Case Excavators, Case Skid Steers, Case Original Parts. It is a link to Case Construction's parts manuals online. I went ahead and got you as far as the main parts manual. All you need to do is click on what you're looking for. Note, there are 6 pages.

On the #1 page, #002 item in the list shows where to look for serial numbers. A lot of the older models seem to be missing the cowl piece, the serial number tag was pop riveted to.

You'll need to go to page #2 and #036 in the list,to find info on the gasoline engine. If you look at the picture of the block, you'll see the location of the block casting number. That is what you need to identify the engine you have. There should be a flat boss, with the casting number engraved there. If not there, look for a flat boss elsewhere, but I believe most were located there.

That number if original should be A37209. The serial number will be date of mfg. If that number does not match the above number, then get the block casting number, type in into a search engine, and see what you get. You could probabaly go to Case Ag. site, and do a search for the 600 series, as it should show block casting number for the Ag. tractors also.

As for #1 in your list, it sounds like the governor to me. Go to 050 to see an exploded view of the governor, that is on the original engine. May not apply to what you have though. Once you find out what engine you have, you may need to go to Case/IH Ag. to find that info.

#2 on your list... Go to page #5, and click on page 142. It will show you an exploded view of the hydraulic pump. It may be just low on fluid. If you're not that familiar with it yet, the hyd. pump for the 3 pt. is located behind the torque tube, and ahead of the transmission. If there is notable oil leakage showing around the clutch inspection plate at the lower front of the torque tube, more than likely, the shaft seal is leaking where the main drive shaft passes through. The tractor will need to be split at the engine & torque tube to replace it.

#3. Can't see enough of your engine to determine if if has a fuel pump attached to the block somewhere. If it does, I'd suspect the diaphragm was leaking on the pump, letting fuel into the crankcase.

#4. The throttle lever not working may be part of your power problem. ie: governor not working... If you look at the exploded view of the governor, you will see a couple of springs attached to the throttle rod, that in turn work with the gov. control rod. If that linkage is frozen, and not able to move, I'm guessing it will not allow the gov. to activate as it should.

As for the oil filter. How about one of those oil filter relocation kits..?? Hardest part would be finding a place easily accesable, but yet not get the lines/hoses in the loader arms. Second hardest would be cross referencing the filter, and see what all it fits, and see if there is an automotive application. I believe I remember that being a Wix filter, so doing a search at NAPA online, and using the parts interchange block up in the corner should get you some results you need. All I've checked, when checking the actual filter description, gives the thread and base size.

Purely all speculation on this end, but should help you get started on info you're looking for.

Once you determine what engine you have, and what it's out of, you can probably do a search, such as using Google for the model number of Case tractor it came from. Usually at the top of the results will be TractorData. When you open that link, it gives the serial numbers on down in the info.

Hope this helps..!!

I know it's been quite a while, but I finally have some answers. I have used the tractor here and there but has never been reliable. I finally got time and after some work and investigation found a few things. The carb main jet had white powdery corrosion in it, so I bought a rebuild kit and after cleaning it up I set the float, replaced the needle and seat and gasket. The spark plugs were mismatched, wires were junk, and just needed a good tune up. After new plugs, wires, cap, points rotor and condenser it ran much better. Seems it was only running on 3 cylinders and allowing fuel to work past the piston into the crank case as there is no fuel pump. The compression was 150 on all 4 cylinders. I drained the oil and replaced the oil and filter. I've rebuilt the steering cylinders and now am waiting on either new tie rod ends or for 72.00 each ebay has a set of new steering cylinders ready to bolt on. Waiting for a reply to see if they'll fit. I still have to add weight and figure out the 3 point, but at least the tractor is useable now. for the first time ever I was able to take off in 4th gear instead of 2nd. I was even able to shift to 4th high and it went pretty good. I just don't want to push my luck until I get the very loose tie rods replaced. Thanks for all the suggestions and help!

 

[DJ54]

Check the oil level in the hydraulic reservoir. It's on top of the torque tube. If there is no oil, or real low, the seal will probably need replaced, which you will need to split the tractor to do. The hyd. filter is also located on top of the torque tube. A 4 bolt cap, facing the left side, from the drivers seat, is easy to change. I believe I got mine through NAPA, crossing the part number.

A good 3pt. hydraulics are pretty strong, as most of those tractors were used on jobs using a Gannon, 3 pt. box type scraper.

Good luck..!!

 

[Clint82]

I still have to figure out the 3 point. The level was low and the reservoir seems to have grease in it. Not chunky water infused oil, but actual grease. I filled it up with oil and the 3 point raised, but after about 30 seconds and a few raiseand lower cycles milky oil gushed out of the transmission breather and oil matching what I just added came gushing from under the shift lever. Would this be a bad internal seal or do I have a different problem? The 3 point arms held, but the pump was whining and then oil came spewing out of the breather cap and shift lever. The transmission was then way overfull with a mixture of oil I just added to the hydraulic reservoir and the milky sludge that's already in the transmission case, which I still need to drain and replace. I just want to figure out the overflow problem first. I can't seem to be able to upload and pictures from my phone. I'll see if I can add some tonight from a desk top. Thanks for the help so far! I GREATLY appreciate it!

 

[DJ54]

If you can look on your PC at some pics, open this link Official Case Construction Equipment Online Parts Store and Parts Look Up. Parts for Case Equipment and Construction Equipment. Parts Store for Case Wheel Loaders, Case Excavators, Case Skid Steers, Case Original Parts., and see if what I deduced may be your problem. It's the only place I can see, where hydraulic oil, can enter your trans.

Look in the lower half of the exploded view at the pan that catches the oil out of the 3 pt. rockshaft cylinder, when you let the 3 pt. down, then returns it to the hyd. reservoir, via that return tube.

I'm suspecting the clamp #24, has come loose, and let the return tube #28 drop, dumping the oil in the transmission, instead of sending it back to the hyd. reservoir. If you had weight on the 3 pt. arms, even standing on them, to make them go down quicker, would be enough pressure to make it gush out. I've looked at several other pages, and cannot see what the other end attaches to, to go on into the reservoir.

So, that would be the reason why the pump is whining, because of oil going in the transmission, instead of returning to the reservoir.

I'd also have to guess your brake pedals are pretty much like stepping on a plum, and hardly any braking action. If the bull pinion shaft seals are even remotely leaking, which they normally are after time. Then oil that high in the transmission/differential, has surely soaked the brake discs. Oil dripping from the brake chamber cover, is a dead giveaway.

See what you think, but, looks like the rockshaft top cover will have to come off, and see if that's the problem. Hope you have a warm place to work on it...