CASE IH Farmall 55a won't crank

[Msudairyfarmer]

Hi everyone,

I have a 55a 2wd mech shift I've owned for awhile now. Awhile back it kept shutting off in the field and fixed a relay on it. Later last fall I had issues with a spade fitting on the solenoid that would not allow it to crank and that was fixed. Now I have encountered the same issue where I can not get it to crank. When I turn the key I can hear the relays clicking as usually and all lights work. I checked the seat safety switch, the range lever switch, and the pto safety switch and all tested fine. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions. I have not found any loose or bad connections. I could really use some help on this and it would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Andito]

I have a 75a that did the same thing to me about a year ago. I checked every safety switch and couldn’t find a culprit. Finally got frustrated enough to pull the whole wiring harness apart and couldn’t find anything wrong. Thought I had lost the battle, then I found the ECM (engine control module) under the hood on the drivers side close to the hood hinge. It’s a small black “chip” about 2” square and 3/4” thick. Went to the dealer and it was about $20! Not very often I get lucky and it’s a cheap fix. Maybe this is your tractors problem. A good place to start anyways. Good luck

 

[klancf51]

I've seen the S-wire blade connector on the starter solenoid as well.
These are the safety interlocks that I am aware of

1. PTO
2. Clutch pedal
3. Operation presence (seat)
4. Shuttle in neutral
5. Hi/Low range in neutral
6. Gear selector in neutral
7. Parking Brake

I think you can by-pass the interlocks by applying 12V directly to the solenoid with the ignition on. Be careful that the transmission is not engaged!

 

[Jeepnford]

I have an older DX35 that had similar issues but it would also blow the start circuit fuse. The start current that triggers the starter solenoid goes through all the safety switches. If you get one or two with a little resistance it fails. I added a solenoid that is activated when you start the tractor but all the safety switches do is close the new relay which sends the battery voltage to the starter solenoid. Somewhere on this site is a write up.

 

[sequoyah101]

I went out to start my 50A this afternoon. Turn the key, instruments light up, flashers work but nothing else.

Thought it was the battery BC I got a black empty battery symbol with an arrow point up. Put on a charger.

I have bypassed the seat switch for ages with a jumper. Ditto with the transmission switch since it failed.

Had it started once and unhooked the jumpers and it died like it had been hit with a hammer.

Crawled under checked the brake switch and it is working but not sure about the clutch. While I was trying to start the machine I moved the clutch and it caught once again then died almost immediately.

Now nothing at all but left it on the float charger that indicates it is charging.

If I thought bypass all the safety interlock junk and just go direct from the starter switch to the starter I would. Does anyone know if the computer enters into any of this equation?

People should know that more connectors and more junk just mean less reliability. Tractors should not need computers or anything related to that.

I have a JCB 210S that has no less than seven circuits that must all function for the machine to start. Good luck keeping all that going on a 30 year-old machine with on ly 1450 hours. It now has a direct line from the switch to the starter.

Hope it is not the engine control module. Tomorrow I'll start jumpering around safety switches before I begin to suspect he starter switch and have to tear the dash apart.

Wish I just had a fleet of xx20 series John Deere's

 

[sequoyah101]

The problem was a relay. Not just one but three relays were found to be failed as they had no coil resistance. One was on the work lights and the other two on the starter safety circuit.

The problem remains though... I don't know how they failed. Scorched it appears, the caps inside were dark with plastic residue when I pried them open. I have never had a relay fail ever. Not in 60 years let alone three within 4 years and 550 hours of use.

I still have not found out what the numbers on the relay mean. There is no amperage shown.

I also bought a service manual. Buyer beware, it is not for a US 50A. Be very very careful what you buy. The manual I got is for the 45A, 55A and 50A but for a Euro version. The wiring diagrams are not the same. They may be close in principal but the relay designations, their number and location do not match. Otherwise it is basically the same tractor mechanically from what I can tell. That commonality is common in US vs other market models. If you can read between the lines you can usually figure things out.

I would have bough the service manual from Case IH if I had found it as I did for my other two tractors a few years ago. Not now. Not a fan of the new version of the CIH web site.

There is another thread on 50A no start and I'll post a duplicate of this on that site for convenience to others in case this is useful.