OP
CenTex Chris
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2010
- Messages
- 108
- Tractor
- 2009 Kioti CK35 HST and 1947 Ford 2N
Hmmm... I hate doing that with 12-pointers, but I'll fish out a 6-point and give her a twirl. Thanks!
CK35 HST, nothing at key, no clicks, 100% good battery
- Thread starter CenTex Chris
- Start date
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,660
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
I noticed when I went to disconnect my negative battery cable from the battery this past winter before I left for 3 months of beach/sunshine rest-up - the negative cable clamp on the battery was loose enough for me to move it and remove it by hand. I was mildly 'shocked' by this but NOT literally, just in mind blowing shock like effect. I wonder if anyone else has found this to be the case with Kioti OEM cables/end clamps?
There's no way to tighten it more than it already was UNLESS I cut part of one 'ear' of teh factory clamp to allow it to tighten further on the post.
If this is a common fault of these Kioti cable end clamps it could lend itself to some of the corrosion and or occasional or often poor starting symptoms experienced by some owners.
I ask because that possibly, along with the LONG trip across the ocean, (from Sarah Palin's house, you know over near Russia)
, Kioti cables could see the harsh effects of the salt water environment preselecting them for internal corrosion that 'creeps' along the copper wire UNDER the plastic jacket the cable is wrapped in at the factory. And, unlike James, not everyone on planet Earth coats everything that moves in No-OX before putting it to use.:shocked:
Anyway, having lived on a coast of the US and having a boat exposed to salt water; there is NO more corrosive environment here or any other planet I've heard we might be settling soon, than by salt water.
I saw almost exactly what Chris had happen to his Kioti: a friends outboard motor had a broken solenoid that was keeping the engine from cranking/starting. I tracked it down, and used my Snap-On long jumper cables to bridge for the positive cable of the boat and got it started. We drove directly to the marina and bought a new starter solenoid. It started but still had problems. The owner later took it back to the boatyard and the mechanic tested the battery cable. Sure 'nuff the cable was toast. Replaced it- everything good.
After that I now almost always start at the frame bolt and work to the battery negative post and so on to rule out bad/marginal cables first and foremost. We've all read the stories on TBN of batteries and starter motors being replaced to no result when a ground is WAY more likely to be at fault.
Consider this, you have a boat next to my slip in the marina. Your boat engine does NOT have a sacrificial anode attached to the lower engine unit, which is sitting in the salt water. My engine does have an anode attached and while we're asleep the salt water is allowing electrolysis to occur between our boats with our engines submersed in the salt water. Your engine is getting literally EATEN by the electricity flowing around in the marina's waters. Mine, not so much. The sacrificial anode on my engine is being eaten, BUT it is designed to do so and I can replace it every so often. Your engine, much like the inner copper cable strands, most often on the negative cable of one's tractor are slowly disintegrating without your being able to see it UNLESS you do a close inspection or cut the plastic sheathing back to expose the corrosion.
Now I can't say for sure that my theory of the copper strands factory preparation and subsequent travel across oceans on it's way to the retail purchaser contributes to what end up being useless, high resistance, poor quality conductors on Kioti and other worlds away made tractors, BUT it is certainly within the realm of possible explanations, IMHO.
Moral of story; begin at the beginning, check the simple things like frame bolts which ground the negative cable, and work forward through the battery, relays, switches, etc on the way to solving issues with tractor electrical problems. Try hard to NOT jump to conclusions, use methods and logic, like James may exemplify in his basics refresher and beginner electrical course(s), and come to TBN to work with Team Kioti to solve problems large and small.:thumbsup:
There's no way to tighten it more than it already was UNLESS I cut part of one 'ear' of teh factory clamp to allow it to tighten further on the post.
If this is a common fault of these Kioti cable end clamps it could lend itself to some of the corrosion and or occasional or often poor starting symptoms experienced by some owners.
I ask because that possibly, along with the LONG trip across the ocean, (from Sarah Palin's house, you know over near Russia)
, Kioti cables could see the harsh effects of the salt water environment preselecting them for internal corrosion that 'creeps' along the copper wire UNDER the plastic jacket the cable is wrapped in at the factory. And, unlike James, not everyone on planet Earth coats everything that moves in No-OX before putting it to use.:shocked:Anyway, having lived on a coast of the US and having a boat exposed to salt water; there is NO more corrosive environment here or any other planet I've heard we might be settling soon, than by salt water.
I saw almost exactly what Chris had happen to his Kioti: a friends outboard motor had a broken solenoid that was keeping the engine from cranking/starting. I tracked it down, and used my Snap-On long jumper cables to bridge for the positive cable of the boat and got it started. We drove directly to the marina and bought a new starter solenoid. It started but still had problems. The owner later took it back to the boatyard and the mechanic tested the battery cable. Sure 'nuff the cable was toast. Replaced it- everything good.
After that I now almost always start at the frame bolt and work to the battery negative post and so on to rule out bad/marginal cables first and foremost. We've all read the stories on TBN of batteries and starter motors being replaced to no result when a ground is WAY more likely to be at fault.
Consider this, you have a boat next to my slip in the marina. Your boat engine does NOT have a sacrificial anode attached to the lower engine unit, which is sitting in the salt water. My engine does have an anode attached and while we're asleep the salt water is allowing electrolysis to occur between our boats with our engines submersed in the salt water. Your engine is getting literally EATEN by the electricity flowing around in the marina's waters. Mine, not so much. The sacrificial anode on my engine is being eaten, BUT it is designed to do so and I can replace it every so often. Your engine, much like the inner copper cable strands, most often on the negative cable of one's tractor are slowly disintegrating without your being able to see it UNLESS you do a close inspection or cut the plastic sheathing back to expose the corrosion.
Now I can't say for sure that my theory of the copper strands factory preparation and subsequent travel across oceans on it's way to the retail purchaser contributes to what end up being useless, high resistance, poor quality conductors on Kioti and other worlds away made tractors, BUT it is certainly within the realm of possible explanations, IMHO.
Moral of story; begin at the beginning, check the simple things like frame bolts which ground the negative cable, and work forward through the battery, relays, switches, etc on the way to solving issues with tractor electrical problems. Try hard to NOT jump to conclusions, use methods and logic, like James may exemplify in his basics refresher and beginner electrical course(s), and come to TBN to work with Team Kioti to solve problems large and small.:thumbsup:
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Yeah, and slather everything with No-Ox-Id when you get it brand spanking new. I take the batter clamps off and put it on the posts and then put the clamps back on and slather them with it and down about 1/2 of an inch of the plastic coating of the cables and take the ground bolt out and coat that connection too. Tighten everything up and go on with life, never to fight battery cable/terminal/bolt corrosion again. Oh, I also coat the battery hold down hardware too. If you don't, that steel bolt/wingnut hardware will rot too.
Batteries are nasty hateful things. There always seems to be some acid fumes that comes out of the dang things and that crap is corrosive. I know I sound like a broken record, going on and on about these preventative measures, but I swear it really works. I have no idea what Sanchem puts in that jar of No-ox-id. It may be nothing more than some kind of grease, or there is something else blended in. I just don't know, but I know it works. And I know that the battery manufacture of the batteries that came with the Nortel switches I put in all came with some in the installation kit. I always kept what was left over.
Batteries are nasty hateful things. There always seems to be some acid fumes that comes out of the dang things and that crap is corrosive. I know I sound like a broken record, going on and on about these preventative measures, but I swear it really works. I have no idea what Sanchem puts in that jar of No-ox-id. It may be nothing more than some kind of grease, or there is something else blended in. I just don't know, but I know it works. And I know that the battery manufacture of the batteries that came with the Nortel switches I put in all came with some in the installation kit. I always kept what was left over.