Diary of a Fat Man ... and his tractor

[Car Doc]

I mention this quite often on here when someone has a broken bolt but here it is again if its any help to ya-

If a bolt is broken flush I always take a cutoff wheel and my dremel sized air die grinder and cut a screwdriver slot on the bolt. I then clean the threads out with sprayoil and air and give her a try and if she wont turn I drill a small hole clear thru the broken bolt and spray oil it in behind and leave it overnite. good luck

 

[California]

I saw that the standoff that is cast into the transmission housing that supports the front of the foot-board had broken.

It only broke about 1/8" deep and about 1/2 way around the hole that the bolt goes into. That standoff is easily 1 1/2" deep. Maybe 2". If it was drilled and tapped to that depth and a bolt of sufficient depth to bottom out in it were used, then it should have held

Ok, as I visualize this only the outer 1/8" of the 1.5" inch standoff is missing. And its not clear to me if the hole is now empty, or half of a broken bolt remains stuck in there.

 

[thunderheart]

Well the bolt wasn't broken off and I think I have the original problem solved. I disassembled the foot-board and found that the bolts were M10 and approximately 1" long. Only about 4-5 threads were actually engaging because of the thickness of the foot-board, flat washer and lock washers that were used. I went down and got some bolts about 1/2" longer. Got closer to an inch of bolt actually in the hole now.

However now I seem to have a bigger problem. When I took the step off, the clutch pedal kinda over-rotated on it's pivot. That is, the pedal rotated clockwise on the pivot moving up/aft. This allowed the levers connected to the clutch pedal via an adjustable linkage to also over-rotate. Now I can't seem to get the top lever to rotate back down. This lever is connected to a shaft that runs through-and-through the transmission housing just below the steering box. The diagram I have of the YM330 shows this shaft connected to something called a "yoke" inside the transmission, although the lever/linkage arrangement looks somewhat different. Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks,

Dallas

EDIT

Here are some pictures to illustrate the problem:

Before


After

 

[California]

Is there any sort of inspection plate to look into the bellhousing?

If not, unbolting the steering box and raising it a couple of inches might let you get a dental mirror in there to see what happened. I suspect the fork is disengaged from the throwout bearing. I think working through the steering box mount opening with a stiff wire you could push the throwout bearing back where the fork can engage it.

If this works it would be far easier than splitting the tractor.

One more comment - Yanmar's manuals recommend securing the steering box mounting bolts with Locktite.

 

[winston1]

I believe there are 2 springs that will be pulling back on the clutch sleeve. Make sure they are still connected. I agree California's idea might be worth a try. Here is the 336 parts drawing. Figure 35 http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/Parts Manuals/Yanmar/Y00T2140.pdf

 

[thunderheart]

Is there any sort of inspection plate to look into the bellhousing?

If not, unbolting the steering box and raising it a couple of inches might let you get a dental mirror in there to see what happened. I suspect the fork is disengaged from the throwout bearing. I think working through the steering box mount opening with a stiff wire you could push the throwout bearing back where the fork can engage it.

If this works it would be far easier than splitting the tractor.

One more comment - Yanmar's manuals recommend securing the steering box mounting bolts with Locktite.

Unfortunately it looks like I'll have to pull the steering column/box off in order to fix this. I fiddled with it last night and it simply will not rotate back into place. I found a post elsewhere where someone referred to this happening to someone else but with no details. The top of the steering box is right under the fuel tank and it just doesn't look like it can move vertically to even allow me to get a mirror under it and even if I could I wouldn't want to risk it. I'm a clumsy cuss sometimes and have large hands/fingers so tight spaces are a challenge.

But I really hope I don't need to split the tractor. That really sounds like it is above my pay grade and more importantly the tractor is currently sitting on my trailer.

I believe there are 2 springs that will be pulling back on the clutch sleeve. Make sure they are still connected. I agree California's idea might be worth a try. Here is the 336 parts drawing. Figure 35 http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/Parts Manuals/Yanmar/Y00T2140.pdf

Wow Winston. What document did these diagrams come from? I'm assuming they are part of another document of course though maybe they are standalone. Blows my I&T manual away. Much more like it and very helpful!

Thanks fellas,

Dallas

 

[winston1]

Here is a thread where Domush bunched some of the parts pdf's together. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/212872-links-pdf-format-parts-manuals.html

 

[careyo63]

I have almost Nothing on a 3110 Dia. But since I have nothing to go by here is my HO. of what it's there for. May be totally wrong But My BET It goes to your Brake Linkage. When you Depress the Clutch the shaft applies pressure to the Brakes slowing the Trans. to make it easy for the gears to Mesh.

 

[thunderheart]

Well that was easy ... not. GEEEEEEEZ! Took me half the day to expose the clutch yoke and 2 seconds to fix the problem. That steering wheel did not want to come off and neither did the Pitman Arm. This was the problem:

:thumbdown:

And this is the fix:

:thumbsup:

Boy if I ever have to disconnect the clutch linkage or remove the running-board on that side again, the first thing I'm gonna do is wire the release shaft in place so that nonsense don't happen. It was a huge pain in the rear-end. I did learn alot but that is another day of my life I'll never get back ...

I think if it did happen again though, I could likely fiddle with the shaft and get the tabs on the yoke to re-engage the throughout bearing carrier without taking it apart. With the steering box off and standing there looking at it I was able to do it a couple of times.

Anyway it's Miller time ... :dance1:

Dallas

 

[kenmac]

glad to see you got it fixed :thumbsup: