Digging Pond questions

   / Digging Pond questions #41  
FTG, I dug mine ~80-100X80 and 8.5' deep at the deepest part using primarily my loader with tooth bar. Mostly my 6' BB was used for ballast more than anything. Took me about 16 hours to do most of the initial layout work including digging and packing the core trench and packing the dam in layers while digging the rest. Yours will certainly be easy with the larger tractor. My finish work was broken up over a period of time, so I don't really know how much total time I have in it.
 
   / Digging Pond questions #42  
TS, thanks, that's good to know. 80x80x8.5 = about 2000 cubic yards! Compared to that, 140 should be easy-peasy!

I am surprised to hear you didn't use your BB - why is that? I do plan to get a BX toothbar next week, my thought was to use the BB scarifiers to break up the hardpan, then use the FEL to scoop it up and move it.

You have any pics or video of your pond building?

Thanks,
 
   / Digging Pond questions #43  
FTG, I dug mine ~80-100X80 and 8.5' deep at the deepest part using primarily my loader with tooth bar. Mostly my 6' BB was used for ballast more than anything. Took me about 16 hours to do most of the initial layout work including digging and packing the core trench and packing the dam in layers while digging the rest. Yours will certainly be easy with the larger tractor. My finish work was broken up over a period of time, so I don't really know how much total time I have in it.

finding it real hard to believe you dug anywhere close to that much in only 16 hrs with a L3800. Even at only half of what FTG mentioned, at 1000yds of dirt (cause your average depth will be less than 8.5') that would require digging an moving 62 yards per hour.

Thats about one full scoop (dug and placed where it needs to be) every 20 seconds. I am sorry, but something dont add up.

Working from a loose pile and average 100' transport distance, I'd wager a L3800 is only good for 20yds/hr at best. Even longer if you have to dig hard ground to do it.
 
   / Digging Pond questions #44  
Well LD1 as you stated, it's only like 1,000 or less yards mainly due to the deepest point being a very small area. To go that deep, you're mostly working around from edges going down hill toward the center. One section is about 3-4 feet deep for a about 1/4 of the pond area too.

FTG will possibly have a hard time going 6' deep in that small an area unless entering and exiting in same direction and can expect a steep incline.

I can assure you, however, that the bulk of the work was indeed done in 2 days and really started on a whim after reading so much about others' ponds. I had a natural run-off area to begin with where I get all the neighborhood's run-off directed through my property. After a couple years of mowing an ever moving ditch-line, I decided it would be a great place for a pond with the amount of watershed it gets. So I started digging.

Main reason I didn't use the Box Blade much is that I didn't need to. The FEL with tooth bar digs well and it is obviously more efficient to only handle each load once instead of running back and forth ripping, then scooping.

Also LD1, you mention spoil pile 100' from the pond. I put mine less than 10' from the top of my pond (actually started like 25' away, but kept moving back toward the pond as it grew). Then, my neighbor asked if he could have the spoils so when I got done, he brought is dad's skid steer over and moved the pile himself to his property. Now if I had had to relocate all that, then your argument and reasoning would make sense, but I did not count that time in my digging time. My 16 hours was mainly getting the bulk of it dug (including the core trench) as I mentioned. Along with that, I built the dam and packed it in layers as I dug, so about 1/3 of the spoils went into building the dam. Fine shaping and smoothing work was done later and in a little time here and there that as I stated earlier, I didn't count or include in this. Also, I do have red clay, which I would consider somewhat hard ground, but a tooth bar makes a ton of difference and I had no problem getting heaping scoops. The hardest part is maneuvering in and out of a bowl with a full scoop. I almost rolled the tractor twice, but dropped the bucket quickly. The Box Blade and loaded rear wheels allow for very heavy scoops.

Also, when I first dug it, I left a small island with a tree growing up in it. Later, I came back and removed the tree and dug that area back out as well. I read about root rot so just took it out.

I'm merely giving my experience. Your L3400 would do the same with the same set-up.
 
   / Digging Pond questions #45  
Didn't mean to start an argument.

Also note that my original calculation was way off in terms of the cubic yardage estimated. After reading the USDA/NRCS Handbook 590 on Ponds - Planning, Design and Construction (paged 59), the correct (or more accurate) formula for sizing a pond is as follows:

V = (A + 4B + C)/6 X (D/27) where

where:
V = volume of excavation (yd3)
A = area of the excavation at the ground
surface (ft2)
B = area of the excavation at the mid-depth
(1/2 D) point (ft2)
C = area of the excavation at the bottom of the
pond (ft2)
D = average depth of the pond (ft2)
27 = factor converting cubic feet to cubic yards
 
   / Digging Pond questions #48  
That's a good point because I'm in the beginning stages of planning my little farm pond.

TN state laws state that a "farm pond" does not need to be regulated (unless it dams a stream or creek) unless it's at least 20' high or holds back more than 30 acre-feet of water. That's one acre 30 feet deep or 30 acres, one foot deep or any combination thereof.

My little pond should be only about 25'x25 by maybe 6' high, although I really don't know yet. That's about 140 cubic yards. Doable with a L4330 with a 1/2 cubic yard FEL and 6' BB?

Thanks,

Doable? Yes, but I'm thinking it will stop being "fun" about 5% of the way through.
 
   / Digging Pond questions #49  
22 yds per hour is alot more believable for sure. But still a tall order.

A heaping bucket on these tractors is ~1/3-1/2yd. So you are still looking at needing to dig, and move at least 1 bucket every minute.

But as we have learned finding the exact cubic footage of a pond is not an exact science. And without seeing the site before and after, and taking measurements, its a crapshoot.

IF you can dig a 6' deep pond by only moving 3' of material and building a 3' dam all the way round, that requires moving FAR less dirt than digging the entire 6' depth. It sounds like you got by without moving much dirt and building a dam.

The pond I had dug was only a little larger than yours. 1/4 acre or so. (~11000sq ft) as opposed to your 7000-8000sq ft. It took two excavators (PC120 and a E70B) working 2-1/2 days. With a little time on a komatsu D26ex dozer thrown in there.) Deepest is ~9ft and a good 4-5ft average depth. So I am guessing ~2000yds of dirt moved. I didnt have the luxury of building a dam to reduce the dig depth.

After getting it done and seeing the end result, that would have taken me a few weeks to do if all I had was my L3400.
 
 
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