Drop valve knob stuck

[Tractor Seabee]

The knob breaks easy, I know the hard way. Shop foreman at my dealers told me it is common and said they get some that owners tried to loosen and it can be a big bill depending on the damage done. He also stated they never try to loosen, just disassemble, clean, lube and re-assemble. Stated there is more labor in removing the sat and floor pan and re-installing than the fix its self. He quoted NTE $400 if no parts required, all labor. They are a T&M shop. There labor is 125/hr.

I am still using as is. Lowering speed is OK. Saving the job for when I put in my shop for some other stuff and do then myself.

Ron

 

[5030]

On cab models, Kubota provides an access plate below the seat pan that the shaft passes through. The knob can be removed by punching out the roll pin with a correct sized drift and twisting it back and forth (tight fit on the shaft) and then removing the 4 bolts and removing the access plate to gain access to the shaft, the flex joint (if it has one) and the valve., Not so lucky on an open station tractor where the shaft passes through the seat pan (tin) and the only option is to remove the seat pan (tin) to gain access or remove the right side wheel and rim and control cables to gain access to the shaft and valve and it's still a restricted access. Been there and did both because I have both models, open station and cab and again, my recommendation is...

If it works properly, use it often to keep it freed up. Only takes a partial turn to keep it moving. I do that everytime I use either tractor when I get in the seat.

 

[gregz]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

 

[BX23S-1]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

Awesome, you got it working! Saved yourself form the dealership labor grief.

 

[5030]

No disassembly or hammer required. I removed rr tire so I can see where the shaft enters the HST and sprayed some Kroil ( orange can) in that area. Soak repeat for and hour or so. With some channel locks squeezed between the fuel tank and body I was able to grip the shaft firmly and free it up. Knob/shaft spins nice and smooth now, must have caught it just in time. Now on to the next issue, I'm sure I'll find something. Cheers gregz

Nice to be able to remove a tire and rim to access the shaft. On my M's. tire and rim removal is a 2 man, possibly 3 man job in as much as each tire and rim assembly weighs over 600 pounds and that isn't loaded either. When you remove it, it has to be kept vertical at all times. If it gets even slightly out of vertical, better stand back and let it flop and keep your feet clear or the tire and rim will break your foot on the way down.

Been there did that and had to stand it back up using another tractor and forks.

The shaft don't enter the transmission, it engages the flow control valve that is threaded into the upper arm casting. The HST is well below it.

Turn it often and you won't have a recurring issue.