Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge

   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #21  
Thanks for all the good input. I truly appreciate all your responses.

I'm at about 2300 feet elevation in Western North Carolina. I should have thought to mention that when I asked about digging supports. jbarker, are your railroad ties partially buried? How deep?

I really like the idea of having the bridge quite a bit higher than the top of the banks as yours is but I was trying to avoid having to build up the drive area into and across the stream. Is it realistic for me to try to avoid additional grading in this way? I've looked over the entire stream length and this is the one area where both sides are most level with each other as well as with the house site across the stream and with the state paved road (that has the state culvert going underneath it) fronting the property. I was planning on having the driveway come off this street just because it was the most flat and direct route across the stream. But, maybe a little extra grading now might save a bridge later? Or is the bridge going to withstand a flood without budging?! I think if the stream overflows the banks, then I'm going to lose the drive anyway. Man, I'm giving myself a headache. I wish I could quit thinking about all the potential disasters.

I loved the covered bridges at the provided web site. What a luxury that would be. I can only dream. I did get a chance to look at one near the Wrecker Service's bridge that I mentioned. Very cool ... and probably very expensive! Meanwhile, I also loved the staggered deck pattern at your web site; unfortunately, it's not really within my skill level. It would be nice to find someone who could cut/install the decking at an affordable price. I was so entranced with the pattern and possibility of extra strength that I didn't notice lumber size. What are your thoughts about various wood types and dimensions?

I appreciate the input about the maybe too-heavy load of a concrete deck. I guess I can ask the concrete company to calculate the weight and then run it by one of the city/county engineers. Probably need to verify the flatbed's weight/load info first and have those numbers handy also. I'm glad it was pointed out that 8' is just not that wide. And I think I'm about convinced to go ahead and install both permanently side by side if all these issues work out.

I'm putting the Fire Dept and City/County Building Dept on my to-do list. And, I guess I'd better take a real good look at the flatbeds' structural integrity before they're hauled out to the site. One is pretty much out in the open but the other is almost totally hidden by vegetation. The guy who's selling them is an old long-hauler as his dad was before him. I think he just keeps the motor line yard open for the couple of rigs he still runs and sells the old stuff that he's accumulated over the years on the side. I feel that he is honest and would point out any weak spots if I asked him about safety. So, here's another issue to get done on my to-do list.

Thanks again and I'd appreciate continued feedback on what I'm doing.
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #22  
I had to put in a bridge too before I could build, and height is something to consider. I span 48' and have 8'-9' to creek bottom. Top of my deck is even with county road but goes up on house side, wish I had raised it up higher just because the occasional inlaw motor home almost drags their trailer hitch, onevisitor actually gouged my decking. Saved a few $ on concrete but the long term annoyance is still there. A longer taper to raise up is worth it as is ease of having the most direct route of getting off the main road for deliveries when you start building. If you ever have a chance to get free fill or other stuff delivered remember they always give it to the closest most easiest person to deliver to. I had a big wash out area from a older collapsed bridge so scraped down a field to back fill and have been looking for free fill when available. Keep it high, cover your a abutments with rock etc and keep the creek clear of debri. One twig catches a limb catches a ton of leaves pretty soon you have a beaver dam and water comes up, over or around you. That is what has gotten most of the older bridges around me in the storms, lack of creek care. I used some killer beams that came off a state bridge that was being replaced 30" I beams, FIL got 6 so we have 2 at truck wheel width and 1 in the middle with 4x12 PT nailers bolted to beams 4x12 cross way and 3 4x12 for truck to ride on all PT. No flexing board to board. Next door ran 2x12 for runners and they aren't lasting. Also leave big gaps between your boards, as I got 16 years out of doug fir this first time with tight gaps, trying to save money to put in the house which is OK, because now if it needs to be redone the grandkids if I have any then can do it.:laughing::laughing::laughing: Big gaps make deck care easy.
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #23  
Here's a link to a picture of our bridge: P1020702[3].jpg (image)

The land was not graded to put the bridge in. Rather, the creek had cut through the land and rock over the years, leaving the water level several feet below grade. This made for a nice set-up. The railroad ties that the bridge sits on were basically just laid on the ground. If you went this route, it would probably be best to lay the ties on a bed of gravel, just like the railroads do it. Our bridge was put in place with a D9 bulldozer with a side boom.
Regarding width, we have been able to get a lot of stuff over the bridge with it being only 8' wide. But if I could have it wider, I'd go for it in a heartbeat.
Keep us posted!
-Jay
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #24  
Thanks for the great thoughts. Well ... life and bridge building goes on for me. As with everything in my life, I find that the more I learn, the less I know and the questions continue to pile up.

B-40, I so appreciate the suggestion for bigger gaps in the decking. I should have thought of it myself since I am constantly aggravated by the debris in the cracks of my back deck. When I built it, I thought less space was better to keep womens' high heels from getting stuck. So, no stuck heels but lots more difficulty to maintain. Also, I'll pay attention to the long /bridge drive taper to prevent drag as well as check out the Douglas Fir; I like the idea of > 15 year deck life. And, a recurrent theme from people I've talked to about bridges or culverts is stream maintanence. Lots of sad expensive lessons learned too late!

Jay, that is a beautiful bridge and a hard act to follow. And, owning a pretty piece of land doesn't hurt one bit, does it?!

I was advised to deck the flatbeds before putting them in place since my site doesn't have electricity. Sounds like a good idea to me; any reasons against it? Also, what are your thoughts about pouring concrete footers vs simply setting precast blocks in the ground? Would the poured be more stable? Aside from that issue, it seems either way is OK for the street side of the stream since there's access but the other side of the stream is an issue. It could probably be hand dug but I wonder if the concrete truck's delivery shoot will reach. I'm now more aware of the fact that one or both of the footers will be above ground to assist with drive taper but I'm still wondering about underground footer depth; I guess frost line and ground water level impact that. Any other ideas?

Thanks again.
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #25  
Here's a link to a picture of our bridge: P1020702[3].jpg (image)

The land was not graded to put the bridge in. Rather, the creek had cut through the land and rock over the years, leaving the water level several feet below grade. This made for a nice set-up. The railroad ties that the bridge sits on were basically just laid on the ground. If you went this route, it would probably be best to lay the ties on a bed of gravel, just like the railroads do it. Our bridge was put in place with a D9 bulldozer with a side boom.
Regarding width, we have been able to get a lot of stuff over the bridge with it being only 8' wide. But if I could have it wider, I'd go for it in a heartbeat.
Keep us posted!
-Jay

its a trailer train so its st up for a loaded semi to drive over it slowly
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #26  
Creeker-
I'm not sure what the best way to do the bridge footings is, but I think a concrete pumper truck would be able to pour the far side footing if you decide to go that route. Once you get a few more specific questions, I would advise to start a new thread. I think you'll get more views that way and probably more answers.
-Jay
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #27  
What about an old mobile home frame? That seems too light for anything over a ton or 2.
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #28  
I know this thread is a few years old but wonder if anyone has pics to give updates. Can anyone tell me what a 40' trailer without the running gear will weigh? I'm looking at this option and would like to know if the equipment I have will be able to lift the trailer.
 
   / Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge #29  
Depending on model, rating, and materials between 15 and 20k lbs. It'll probably be rated for 40-50k lbs weight between the kingpin and axles.
 
 
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